Green Wood Drying Process

[Joe Hall]

Okay, I've read different articles on how to dry rough turned bowls. I just wanted to see what everyones preferred process was on the site to help me gauge what the best process is. I've read about denatured alcohol, microwave, soap and plain slow drying. So what thickness do you turn your rough bowls and what process do you use to finish them up. Thanks in advance.

[Jim Becker]

The few that I've rough turned were coated with Anchorseal. Most of the time, I turn completely in whatever moisture state the piece is in. I really haven't had any cracking issues as long as I can accomplish an even wall thickness.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Joe - when rough turning I turn to approx 10% and then soak in DNA for a few hours. Once out of the DNA I wrap in brown paper bag and store for a couple of months when I can finish turn them.

[John Hart]

I have no love or hate relationship with any of the drying techniques. Sometimes I don't wait at all and other times, I'll just toss it in a cabinet and forget about it for a while. Whatever happens, happens.

[Dennis Peacock]

Joe,

Welcome to SMC.!!!

There is an post in the Articles section on SMC about Processing Bowl Blanks. Maybe it can be of assistance to you or provide an idea or two. I need to finish a bowl up and finish the total article...some time. ;)

[Bernie Weishapl]

Joe welcome to SMC. I use the DNA method and have had good luck with it. I soak a bowl 48 to 72 hrs., wrap in in a brown grocery sack and then after drying for 3 or 4 weeks finish turning.

[Reed Gray]

Joe,
I am in the turn it to final thickness (from less than 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch thick depending on wood), let it dry and warp, then sand and finish it school. I have tried the DNA (alcohol) and LDD (soap), soaks, and found that it does nothing for stabilizing, speeding up the drying, or keeping it from cracking. The LDD does make sanding a lot easier. I have never tried to turn thick, dry and then return later. The soakings may yield different results with thicker bowl blanks, but I don't know. The main thing with drying is: too slow and it molds, too fast and it cracks. This can result in a lot of different ways to dry the bowl depending on local weather, specifically heat and humidity. For most woods, after the soak, I will put the blanks on the floor for a couple of days, and then move them to a wire rack. They are done in 10 to 14 days. The one exception is with Madrone, which is very prone to splitting, and warps spectacularly some times. I put this in paper bags and it takes 2 weeks or more to reach equilibrium. The idea with using the sealers, and plastic or paper bags is to create an ideal micro environment for the wood to dry in. My drying methods won't work in Arizona, but are fine here in the Northwet.

The one down side to the warped bowls is that they are almost impossible to hand sand. Power sanding is much easier. It is also easier on bowls that are round, but that is another topic.

robo hippy

[Dan Oliphant]

Joe,
Welcome to the creek, I also rough turn green pieces leaving 3/4-1 inch wall thickness. DNA for 3-4 days, double bag in brown paper bags, seal closed and put out of the way for a minimum of 30 days.
This works very well for me in this very low humidity area.