DC duct work.....Hanging...

[Ken Fitzgerald]

My Oneida 2.5 HP DC is due to arrive tomorrow. Would some of you folks who have successfully installed a DC show some photos of how you hung you ductwork, please.

I will be using snaplock metal ductwork.

Thanks!

[Brian Weick]

that snap lock metal ductwork? is that the same used by HCAV companies? just curious- I want to convert mine for the mains. for wall mounts I used some of Rocklers wall hangers which swivel for the Oliver DC area - clear flex line - as far as running it down the middle of your shop you may want to create some hanging port brackets (with the hole through the vertical plate) and mount it to the ceiling. My DC is built under the shop floor so this is just an idea.:confused:
Brian

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brian....yes, it is the same as used by HVAC guys.....I couldn't afford the spiral pipe.....:o

[Stan Welborn]

I just used some long a__ zip ties stapled to the ceiling joists with fence staples. Made it easy to get it exactly the height I wanted.

[Jim Becker]

Like Stan, I bought some long (24" heavy duty) ties and used those to hang my duct. Cheap and easy to make changes later...just cut them and use a new one to re-hang. I use a long electrical staple into a joist to provide a hang point or in some places, I put up some thin strapping that was easy to wrap the tie around. The ties are also flexible enough that they dampen some of the noise transfer.

I used the same method for vertical drops on the walls, putting a piece of 2x2 stock on the wall with a 1/2" hole through it to catch the ties. This provides a little stand-off for the duct from the wall which helps accommodate the blast gates, etc.

[Steven Wilson]

There are plenty of photos in the archives - here's a couple

The first shows the tools I used to put together some sub assemblies. This shows the verticle drop that services my combination machine. It has a 6x5x5 wye attached to a 5x5x5 wye with blast gates on the end. The joints were put together with pop rivets. At the end the pop rivets were sealed with caulk and everything checked with some smoke for leaks. Tools were a sheet metal shear, air drill, and air riveter - all from Harbor Freight.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=7292&d=1084683218

The second image shows the main pipe comming out of my DC and then it climbing up onto the ceiling. The first section of pipe (left side) is 7" terminating into a 7x6x6 wye and then off to the 6" branches. The pipe is supported by a roll of metal straping I obtained from Oneida. It cuts easily and has wholes for screws. To make it easier I screwed 1x2 into the ceiling and then use hex head sheet metal screws to attach the strapping. In a couple of places (vertical support) I screwed the strapping to the pipe with sheet metal screws. It's pretty easy to do.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=7312&d=1084765183

[Chris Padilla]

Good old rubber bungee cords...the black heavier duty kind, however. :)

[Nate Folco]

Probably a little to high-tech for most but...
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/DC1.JPG

Ropes and nails.
made my own Y's too. I'm cheap like that:)

[Chris Padilla]

There are plenty of photos in the archives

Steve,

Are those LV blast gates that I spy? I used theirs as well...all 6".

[Ted Miller]

My shop at work:

[Stan Welborn]

...everything checked with some smoke for leaks....
Dang, Talk about overkill.

[Mike Spanbauer]

I don't have any pics currently, but I used the fabric duct hanging material you can get from any homestore. It's like seatbelt webbing, just not as strong. Works VERY well and allows the system to shift if I bump it or turn a piece of pipe easily.

Just stapled the webbing to my joistwork and it's been holding very well for over a year now. Strong stuff.

mike

[Matt Meiser]

Giant zip ties with eye bolts screwed into the ceiling, or where there wasn't anything to screw the eye bolt into a piece of scrap conduit held up with a pipe strap screwed into the truss on either side of where I needed the hanger. Then nice thing is that you can put them up loose, then tighten them later.

[Steven Wilson]

Steve,

Are those LV blast gates that I spy? I used theirs as well...all 6".
Nope, those were from Oneida, I don't think LV carried them at the time. One thing missing though from the pictures is the Norfab fittings I used downstream of the blast gates (i.e. for machine and hose connection).

[Al Killian]

My hangers are simple squares of ply with a a second peice screwed to it. The one peice looks like a J then that peice gets screwed to the the square. Then all you have to do is attach it to the wall or ceiling. To help with vibration I put a thin strip of rubber between the wood and metal.

[Steven Wilson]

Dang, Talk about overkill. Checking for leaks is usefull as any leak reduces the CFM of your system. Identifying and then fixing the leaks is pretty easy. Besides when else can you convince SWMBO to let you roll and smoke one of those Rastafarian joints in the house - "Hey mon, ras glass mon, I'm just checking the DC mon":)

[Clay Crocker]

I hung my snap lock duct from 2-1/2" spacers screwed into the the ceiling joists. Then I used heavy zip ties with zip tie hangers, both of which I bought from McMaster-Carr.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/Crocker85/DCDucting001.jpg (http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/Crocker85/DCDucting001.jpg)