Power tool guy looking for Neander advice

[Paul Greathouse]

On a raised panel door glue-up where there are slight thickness variations on the back side of the panel, what would be the best tool for evening out the surface (besides sanding). Would you use a cabinet scraper or a hand plane? If a plane, which size and type? I am not very familiar with hand plane terminology so please give me as many details as possible, so I will know what to look for.

I tried doing a search but theres so much information out there it can get confusing. I figured I would start with one particular task that I do a considerable bit of and try to learn from it.

[Marcus Ward]

If the piece is rather long, like something you'd want to run through a jointer (but can't because it's a panel) you'd probably want a jointer plane like a Stanley #7 or #8. Cabinet scrapers tend to follow hollows and hills and don't appreciably flatten (although they do make things hella smooth). Also a #5 followed by a #7 make a great combination. Set the #5 for a more coarse cut and then follow up with the #7 set for a thin smooth shaving to clean it up and make it look beautiful. Just my 2 cents.

[jonathan snyder]

Paul,

Welcome to the cave! You are going to like our ways of doing things. No noise, no dust, just nice fluffy shavings.

I'm not sure If I understand you question. Are you saying that your panel sits proud of your stiles and rails? Or are you saying that you stiles and rails are not in the same plane, and one is a bit higher or lower than the other.

If the problem is with you panel, I would take it out of the frame and thickness it. I would probably use a #5 jack plane the take it down to thickness and then a #4 smoother to finish it. If the problem is with you stiles & rails, I would level them with a #5 or 6 bench plane going in a circular motion around the frame, doing 1/2 a stile, one corner and 1/2 a rail in one stroke taking a very thin shaving.

A #5 jack plane is a good first plane. It is very versatile and will do the job you are asking about. Others will suggest starting out with a block plane.

Being new to hand planes, you should read up bit. Lots of good info at Cian's index here (http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm)
or TJ's site here (http://workshop.tjmahaffey.com/) Download the plane info PDF file on the right.

I wont even delve into the vintage vs new high end planes debate. I use vintage Stanleys.

Hope this helps.
Jonathan

[Mark Stutz]

Paul,
I too, am just a bit confused about the exact application, however Jonathan gave you good advice. Another thing to think about however, if you're going to use hand planes for sufacing is grain direction. A ROS doesn't dare, but if the raised panel has the grain going in opposite directions on a two piec glue up, flattening it or thicknessing it will be very frustrating, and it has nothing to do with technique, sharpness, etc. Like wise the grain diection on the stiles and rails nned to be taken into consideration. This was not inherently obvious to me when I started theis hand tool path, and I learned the hard way:eek:

[Paul Greathouse]

Thanks guys, you've given me a place to start (#5).

I should have explained myself better. What I am wanting to do is flatten the back side of a raised panel glue up before putting it into the stiles and rails. I do a pretty good job of aligning the front side when clamping but the back side is a little off sometimes.

The other day I was using a Rockler glue scraper to clean the glue squeeze out on the back side of the panel and noticed that I was able to plane the differences down with the glue scraper. After doing so, RO sanding went much faster. So, I got to thinking a plane of some sort or maybe a cabinet scraper would work even better than the little glue scraper.

Any other recommendations now that I have cleared up the intended use?

I'll probably look for an older plane or planes that is already in useable shape to get started then I may consider buying more and refurbishing after I get used to using them.

[Marcus Ward]

Well, find a #5 first. That'll get you 95% of the place you need to be. There are plenty of helpful people on here who will help you learn how to sharpen a plane properly and make what you're doing an enjoyable experience. I always like to follow the 5 with a 7 or 8 but don't take that as gospel. Everyone has different methods. Find a #5 (the most common and thus cheapest) stanley and take it to town. There are probably some things you should look for in a good #5, patrick leach's site http://www.supertool.com/ (click on the blood and gore link) will help you a lot, as well as the stanley plane dating page: http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/

Good luck and if you have questions please don't hesitate to ask!

[jonathan snyder]

Paul,

Now I understand your question. I would still start with a #5 to level, then as Marcus suggests a #7 jointer if its a large panel. The jointer is longer and will make it flatter. If its a small panel, the #5, set for a very fine shaving, will will do the job of the jointer. You could than follow up with a #4 smoother set to take the finest shaving you can get .001 or less. Then it is ready for finishing, no sanding needed.

If you want to go the rout of vintage planes, check out Walt (http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/new%20tools.html), or Sandy (http://www.sydnassloot.com/tools.htm). Both guys stand behind their tools. You will get a good user that will need very little tuning. E-bay will be a crap shoot, I would buy from a tool dealer for your first plane. Another option is Clint Jones, he is a member here who tunes up and sells a few planes every now and then.

Don't forget about sharpening equipment. If you cant sharpen the iron you will get frustrated fast!!

Jonathan

[Don C Peterson]

You got some good advice so I will only add one thing. Watch your step, this slope is steep...