3/4 " router bit

[charlie kapper]

I am just about to makethe 3/4 inch holes in my bench top. I did a quick search for a 3/4 inch upcut spiral router bit. Had some sticker shock on the price of the bit. CMT bit about $180.00. If I cannot find them cheaper, I just might use a drill bit. Has anyone found a reasonably priced 3/4" router bit and where?

regards,
Charlie Kapper

[glenn bradley]

Alternate $52 approach: #1411


http://www.woodworkersworld.net/round_nose_bits.shtml

[keith ouellette]

I don't think you need an up cut spiral for the job. I bought an entire 70 piece set from mcls for less than that and it included a 3/4 and 1 inch dada bit. I used the dado bit for something similar to what you are doing and it worked great. It kept cutting after I went through part of a 12 penny nail. The problem is that it only had a one inch cutting depth. mcls has a 3/4 dia with 1 and 1/2 length straight bit for $12. That will give you a good start and give a hole to guide the drill bit the rest of the way.

[Art Mann]

My opinion is a router is not an appropriate tool to drill holes. Even a spiral upcut bit will probably burn and smoke. What is wrong with just using a drill bit? A forstner bit would do a nice job but you will need a stout drill and a lot of downward pressure. A regular twist bit will do a good job if you are careful. Even a spade bit will do a good job if you drill a pilot hole first and then drill from both sides sothat the bottom of the hole doesn't blow out.

[keith ouellette]

I meant mlcs. they have worked good for me so far.

[Jamie Buxton]

I like your plan of using a plunge router. It ensures that the bored holes are exactly vertical.

I'd use a template guide in the router, and a shopmade template. The shopmade template is just a piece of sheet goods with the correct size of hole bored through it. The correct size is determined by the diameter of your router bit and the diameter of the template guide. The diameter of the router bit can be whatever you have on hand -- 1/2", 3/8", or the like. If you want to get slick, you can add a strip of wood to the bottom of the template. The strip hangs over the edge of your workbench, so it ensures that all the holes the same distance from the edge.

Straight bits called plunge bits have a cutting edge on the front of the bit, so it cuts while it is plunging. Non-plunge bits don't have that edge, and so don't plunge well. However, you can use a non-plunge bit for this job. Drill a hole that's maybe 3/8 diameter in the middle of your eventual dog hole. It doesn't matter whether this hole is vertical or centered or anything. It just clears out some waste in the middle of the dog hole so that the non-plunge bit doesn't have to cut on the end of the bit.

[Gary Keedwell]

I did mine with a carbide drill bit, but the next time I'm going to use a plunge router using a center cut bit. (plunge bit). Simple fixture to get your X and Y hole locations.
Gary

[David Weaver]

Why not just a regular straight bit? Wouldn't evacuate the chips and cut as aggressively as a spiral upcut bit, but a whiteside bit is $15.

http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=2

[Gary Keedwell]

Why not just a regular straight bit? Wouldn't evacuate the chips and cut as aggressively as a spiral upcut bit, but a whiteside bit is $15.

http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=2
Not all bits have plunge capabilities. You need a center cut bit unless you have an existing hole already there.
Gary

[Joel Goodman]

How about using a drill to cut the center 1/2 inch and the clean up with a router -- less stress and you still get the perfect plunge router cut?

[David Weaver]

Good point. I never thought about it, but have never plunge cut with anything other than a 3/8th bit for mortises, so I guess that's a lesson I'd have learned after buying another brand of bit than what I'm using.

I used to plunge cut only with spiral bits until I was cutting in a door a couple of months ago and the router launched itself out of the door on a bounce, even with an upcut bit. Not sure what happened, but I must not have had it flush with the door.

[Gary Keedwell]

How about using a drill to cut the center 1/2 inch and the clean up with a router -- less stress and you still get the perfect plunge router cut?
That will work:)
Gary

[Steve Sawyer]

I too am nearing completion on my workbench, and will be using a 3/4" auger bit and a hand brace. This particular task will push the outside of the envelope for any other tool I can think of. IMO a hand brace and 3/4" auger bit is the perfect tool for this particular job. The holes are large and deep (my top is about 2" thick hard maple). and will stress or burn a router, electric drill, or forstner bit.

Your concern seems to be getting the holes vertical. Getting (and keeping) an auger bit vertical is pretty easy, but being the belt-and-suspenders type, I'll be using a simple jig (a pair of short boards glued or screwed into a "v" shape) to help keep the bit straight.

[Gary Keedwell]

I too am nearing completion on my workbench, and will be using a 3/4" auger bit and a hand brace. This particular task will push the outside of the envelope for any other tool I can think of. IMO a hand brace and 3/4" auger bit is the perfect tool for this particular job. The holes are large and deep (my top is about 2" thick hard maple). and will stress or burn a router, electric drill, or forstner bit.

Your concern seems to be getting the holes vertical. Getting (and keeping) an auger bit vertical is pretty easy, but being the belt-and-suspenders type, I'll be using a simple jig (a pair of short boards glued or screwed into a "v" shape) to help keep the bit straight.
It very well could burn out an inferior made bit but if you use a quality HSS bit, you should be fine.
Gary

[Mike Henderson]

There's a fairly easy way to drill a vertical hole in a bench. Get or make up a piece of 8/4 stock. Square it. Draw two lines perpendicular, with one line along the grain and one across the grain. Use a square and take the lines down the side of the piece of wood.

Now, using your drill press, drill a hole of the proper size centered where the lines meet.

Lay out the holes on your bench with perpendicular lines with the crossing point where you want the hole. Now, put your jig wood (that 8/4 piece) on the bench and align the lines. Clamp the jig to your bench. Use a portable drill, a standard twist bit, and drill as far as your bit will allow. Remove the jig and complete the hole if your drill bit is too short to go all the way through with the jig in place.

Mike

[Steve Sawyer]

It very well could burn out an inferior made bit but if you use a quality HSS bit, you should be fine.
Gary

True, but if you're referring to a forstner bit, you still have the problem of drilling vertically. Not practical to lift the table onto the table saw. An auger is much easier to keep perpendicular to the surface.

Also, you have a LOT of holes to drill, and I'm not sure I want to put that much wear 'n' tear on my drills - corded or cordless.

I'm not saying you can't do this job with something else, but a hand-driven auger is ideal.

[James Hart]

I just got some help with this here last week.

Someone sent me this link to a video of a guy cutting them with a plunge bit;

http://fw_woodworking.permissiontv.com/index.html?showid=522399

I used advice from here and drilled them with a $5 spade bit, using one of those little $30 drill press jobs that attach to your drill to keep it vertical. Drilled about 40 holes, all dead straight.

http://members.cox.net/jimhart9/P1010113.JPG

Used a drywall square to lay them out.

Jim

[Brian Gumpper]

I am just about to makethe 3/4 inch holes in my bench top. I did a quick search for a 3/4 inch upcut spiral router bit. Had some sticker shock on the price of the bit. CMT bit about $180.00. If I cannot find them cheaper, I just might use a drill bit. Has anyone found a reasonably priced 3/4" router bit and where?

regards,
Charlie Kapper

Problem is Charlie you have to start with 3/4" bar stock which adds a lot to the cost over say a 1/2" spiral bit.

I like the round nose idea, don't see why that would work if you keep clearing the chips. You can even hog it out with a 1/2" spiral if you already have one or a plunge cutting straight bit.

[Brian Dormer]

Woodcraft carries a HSS 3/4" upcut spiral bit for about 40-50 bucks. I'd prefer carbide (I'm also building a bench) - but it would probably get thru one benchtop without going dull on you.

[Tim Sproul]

I am just about to makethe 3/4 inch holes in my bench top. I did a quick search for a 3/4 inch upcut spiral router bit. Had some sticker shock on the price of the bit. CMT bit about $180.00. If I cannot find them cheaper, I just might use a drill bit. Has anyone found a reasonably priced 3/4" router bit and where?

regards,
Charlie Kapper

Lee Valley sells HSS spiral 3/4 inch diameter cutter for under $40. Another option is to get a HSS end mill. They're compatible with router use....just be sure to get an end mill with the appropriate diameter shank.

I use an auger bit with a wooden guide block as someone else mentioned previously. Apply tape to the bottom side to minimize (not eliminate) tear out. Plunge routers generally are very depth limited, especially for workbench surfaces. Unless this is a fairly thin workbench surface.

[Gary Keedwell]

Tim has a point...just get yourself a HSS end mill. Just make sure it is a "center Cut" end mill. Alot of the times it will say C/C on the shank. In woodworking terms it is just called a plunge bit,
Gary

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I just might use a drill bit.


I would. It's a fine way to get a hole and won't jump around on you.

[glenn bradley]

There's a fairly easy way to drill a vertical hole in a bench. Get or make up a piece of 8/4 stock. Square it. Draw two lines perpendicular, with one line along the grain and one across the grain. Use a square and take the lines down the side of the piece of wood.

Now, using your drill press, drill a hole of the proper size centered where the lines meet.

Lay out the holes on your bench with perpendicular lines with the crossing point where you want the hole. Now, put your jig wood (that 8/4 piece) on the bench and align the lines. Clamp the jig to your bench. Use a portable drill, a standard twist bit, and drill as far as your bit will allow. Remove the jig and complete the hole if your drill bit is too short to go all the way through with the jig in place.

Mike

That's what I did if you're not hooked on the router idea:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65523&d=1180501803

Been working fine:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65687&d=1180753948

Do clamp a piece of wood on the underside so you don't get blowout.

[Don Stanley]

I am just about to makethe 3/4 inch holes in my bench top. I did a quick search for a 3/4 inch upcut spiral router bit. Had some sticker shock on the price of the bit. CMT bit about $180.00. If I cannot find them cheaper, I just might use a drill bit. Has anyone found a reasonably priced 3/4" router bit and where?

regards,
Charlie Kapper

I would use a Portalign:
http://images.craigslist.org/010107010408011613200711210687cb9ff17cffd773002d8b .jpg

Unfortunately, I don't think you can buy one anymore unless it's used. This one's on Craigslist: http://salem.craigslist.org/tls/486136497.html

I have had one like this for years. Install a 1/2" chuck on an a dedicated portable drill. You would be surprised how many times I have used it because it had the larger chuck.

The beauty of this tool, is that it gives you near drill press accuracy in a hand held tool. I know you can find similar products; a really nice tool to have.

I used a spade bit when I drilled my workbench. Nice clean holes in Masonite and particle board!

-Don

[Vince Shriver]

Rockler (www.rockler.com (http://www.rockler.com)) has a "power bore drill bit" that evacuates debris very quickly and drills a nice clean hole. It comes in a 3/4 inch dia. and, put in a drill guide and used with a template, should be just the ticket for what you're doing.

[Les Derusha]

A 3/4" Forstner bit in a corded drill works much easier AND cheaper. Used it on my 1 3/4" Maple top, worked great!