Slider Ripping Jigs

[John Hain]

If anyone has a nice ripping jig for their slider, could you please post a couple pics? I'm trying to find a way to use the slider to make repeatable rip cuts and do this by measuring to the left of the blade (on the slider).

Here's my problem. If I have a 6" board that I want to rip down to 5 13/16......that's a very easy cut to make with the rip fence; but I want to make the same cut with the bulk of the wood to the left of the blade, on the slider, and want to do it with total precision.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

[Gary Curtis]

Wondering the same thing. Was thinking of fabricating a sled with a moveable fence and stick on rulers. Possibly out of a thin phenolic material. With a couple of pegs to locate it repeatedly with precision on the slider. Shouldn't be too hard.

Gary Curtis

[Jim Becker]

Sam Blasco has pictures of his on his web site as well as in the photo section of the MiniMax user's group on Yahoo. Bill Webber also has pictures of his on his web site...the "temporary" one I made is based on Bill's, but I'm seriously thinking about making one similar to Sam's but with an Incra mechanism. You can see mine in use in one picture of my recent linen cabinet project, too.

[James Suzda]

Hi John,
It will be interesting to see any ideas for a jig like this because I also have a slider on my saw.
But, in the meantime maybe you want to look at this jig for cutting thin strips the traditional way. I found this in one of my old magazines and I think its a pretty good idea for a thin strip ripping jig. http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/wb291-jig01.html#rip
(I suppose I'm going to get in trouble for posting a magazine's web site.)

[Paul B. Cresti]

See below, works very well for me, is safe to operate and cheap to build......

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=29871

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Each time I need a lot of precisely ripped pieces whether narrow or angles it matters not I end up with the same arrangement and it works every time.

I have a block of wood about 2' long by 8" wide made of two sheets of 3/4" plywood that are screwed and glued together. I needed the thickness for strength.

When clamped by the keyways to the table that block defines the angle of the piece to be ripped and it's relationship to the blade.

A stop on the table is just a piece of metal that I have clamped to the table Again using the keyways


That 2'-8" block has three 1/4-20 bolts sticking up out from it with the heads dunk in little counter-bores in the bottom so they don't touch the table. They are inset from the edge about on inch in a straight line one in the center one near each end. The 1/4-20 threaded ends project up from the block. I have three chunks of maple that have a hole in them making them the "clamps that hold the work piece.

The clamps have little blocks glued on the clamping ends to reach over and down and hold pieces down that are not as high as the block of ply. I set the other end's height by just cutting a little strip of wood the thickness I want.

It doesn't take lots of pressure to hold the work. These clamps can generate more than needed. The piece can't move mostly because the stop at the end is a dead fixed stop preventing the blade from shoving the work piece down the table.

I use a little hand held nut driver and the process moves very quickly. I don't have to shut the blade off till all my ripping is done, 'cause I don't get near the blade.