Mounting router in TS wing

[Brian Keith]

I dont have room for a dedicated router table. I have a 30" Biese fence on my Delta hybrid and would like to find some instructions on how to mount my router in the extension wing. Thanks

[Tom Cowie]

I dont have room for a dedicated router table. I have a 30" Biese fence on my Delta hybrid and would like to find some instructions on how to mount my router in the extension wing. Thanks


Hi Brian

i have the Delta contractors saw with a 30" uni-fence. I bought a plate for my router from Rockler and made a template to fit and installed it where it best suited. It's really not that difficult but it sure is worth it .

Tom

[Tim Marks]

You can buy a extension table to replace one of your cast iron wings, such as this one (woodpecker makes good stuff):

http://www.woodpeck.com/media/main_ts2821.jpg
http://www.woodpeck.com/ts21table.html

I really prefer a separate router table over a TS extension mount. Unfortionately, I just moved, and my 30x30 basement shop is now collapsed into a 10x20 garage. This means that I have no space for my beautiful 32x53 Woodpecker table with 25" Incra LS super system. I haven't even tried to re-assemble it. I hadn't considered a TS mount until now, but this probably a solution to save some floor space and still use my Incra system.

I gotta stop reading these forums; they keep costing me money! Fortionately, www.woodpeck.com (http://www.woodpeck.com) has their FREESHIP deal going on, which saves alot of money when you buy stuff like this.

Any opinions on which is better, Left or Right side mounts? I understand that the motor protrusion on a cabinet saw dictates this for some people. On my contractor saw, I am think LHS might be more convenient to avoid blocking the tilt crank handle.

[Jim Becker]

The BenchDog cast iron router table wing is also a very nice option...best of both worlds!

[Mike Goetzke]

I dont have room for a dedicated router table. I have a 30" Biese fence on my Delta hybrid and would like to find some instructions on how to mount my router in the extension wing. Thanks

Brian - I used to have a Craftsman hybrid and modified a store bought router table top for it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/22124%20Sale/th_IMG_2717_1_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/22124%20Sale/IMG_2717_1_1.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/22124%20Sale/th_IMG_1512_4_1_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/22124%20Sale/IMG_1512_4_1_1.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/22124%20Sale/th_IMG_1520_1_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/22124%20Sale/IMG_1520_1_1.jpg)

On my current saw I built my own and put a lift in it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/th_IMG_0902_1_1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/IMG_0902_1_1.jpg)


Take your time and look around and plan the project out. I find accessorizing you tools is almost as fun as woodworking.

Mike

[Mike Marcade]

The BenchDog cast iron router table wing is also a very nice option...best of both worlds!

I have the benchdog version on my contractors saw. I have no complaints.

[Bob Mircetic]

If you purchase one (another vote for the Bench Dog cast iron, I have it and it is GREAT), it will come with instructions for mounting it.

If you mount it on the left hand side of the saw, it basically just bolts to your table saw and replaces your existing left extension wing. If you mount it down at the end on the right, then you have to bolt it to the front and back rails of your fence. You should probably also put legs under it for add'l support.

As far as which side to put it on, I think most people prefer it on the right (at least seems that's what I see most often). However, I've found that I actually prefer it on the left for 3 reasons: (1) I feel it is secured more solidly by mounting it directly to the table saw body rather than to the rails, (2) when using a table saw it seems I almost always work to the right of the blade, so having the router on the left wing means if I leave the bit above the surface it is less likely to get in the way, and (3) the bench dog is wider than typical extension wings, so it gives me a couple inches bigger total work surface on the table saw top (if you mount it on the right, most likely it will just go at the end of your rails and you'd shorten the table board in between to accomodate, thus not getting any add'l work surface).

Of course in the end, you have to like your workshop, so do whatever you think works best.

[Eddie Darby]

I was at a wood working show lately, and saw this really hot router table for table saws from Dave Wooland at the following site.

http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/default.php

It is not on his web-page, but I am sure that an email will get him to respond.

The table has room to expand and contract with the humidity, so your table surface stays flat, which just happens to be a really nice thing when you are doing routing. I forget how many layers of wood it has, but it was something like 13, and it was solid!!! The edges were metal for easy mounting onto a table saw.

This page has a quick question feature:

http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/contact_us.php

[John Kaye]

I built my own router table mounted to the left side of my USA Delta Contractor saw. ( have a Unifence so it only locks in the front of the saw.) The table is actually 24"wide by 27" deep and replaces my left cast table. It is made of 3/4" melamine with 4/4 x 3 hard maple support braces around each side as well as an interior egg crate (that also avoids the router & lift placement). I have a PRL list with a Porter Cable 5618. Along the back I ran a 1/8" thick aluminum 2x2 L that is tied to the center table and continues the full length of each wing. The wings are bolted to this as well as the center table and the Unifence guide. So far, the router table remains flat and I have not had to add legs to the extension.

I located the PRL after I selected my router fence so I could locate the t and miter slots. I also wanted it close enough to the center table so I could add a Woodhaven table saw router fence and paste a ruler on the right side of the unifence for those "super accurate" 1/32" measurements.

Almost always I use the saw or the router in separate operations. But I have ripped and edge jointed a couple of times without any issues.

Hope this helps.

[Bruce Page]

Brian, I just put the BenchDog setup on my Unisaw a few weeks ago. I'm very happy with it.

[Heather Thompson]

I had a right hand router table from WoodPecker on a Delta contractor saw for the last two years, just upgraded to a PM66 and went to swap it over to the new saw. The table has turned into a swayback from the weight of a PRL fitted with a PC7518, I will be building my own router table wing to replace the store bought model.

Heather

[Stan Smith]

Hi Brian

i have the Delta contractors saw with a 30" uni-fence. I bought a plate for my router from Rockler and made a template to fit and installed it where it best suited. It's really not that difficult but it sure is worth it .
Tom

When I moved, I didn't have space for my router table. I lifted the router attached to the Rockler plate out. I measured and made a template for the cut out in the TS extension. Works fine, but wear a mask for protection from the mdf dust.

[Mike Marcade]

The table has turned into a swayback from the weight of a PRL fitted with a PC7518

The cast iron router wings are just a tad more rigid than MDF with a constant load applied. ;)

[Chuck Lenz]

Don't get me wrong, I do like the Bench Dog cast iron top, but can't afford one at this time. One thing I would like to see changed though, is the distance from the front of the table to the router bit. I'd like to see the plate and miter slot pushed back a couple inches, giveing it more working surface upfront. Last fall I bought a Woodpeckers aluminum plate and ringset, a Freud fence, a PC 890 router and I have a piece of 1 1/4" MDF laminated on both sides with rubber edgeing. I've tossed around the idea of mounting the router on the tablesaw but I think I would eventually run into the problem of it geting in the way when I still need it. So I think I'm going to make a benchtop router table. I just need to decide weather I want a cabinet style or open steel frame stand, don't want it to be too heavy.

[James Boster]

I removed the left wing off of my Unisaw several years ago and had a machine shop to flatten an areas the size of my router base on the bottom side and bore a hole through. Then drilled and countersunk holes for my router base. I use the tablesaws rip fence for the router also. Works for me although I will have to remove it soon to install the Jessem sliding table I bought to go on the saw. Not sure what route I will go to then. I hardly ever use that router setup any more since I have a HD Delta shaper and an overarm router. anyway it's an option.

[Heather Thompson]

The cast iron router wings are just a tad more rigid than MDF with a constant load applied. ;)
Mike,

I agree with you, but since I bought the PRL and router wing from WoodPecker, would expect it to be well designed and provide good service. The LOML is an engineer and says that I always over engineer my designs, bet the shop made table remains dead flat, :D it will not be cast iron but it will be sturdy.

Heather