Advice on plane purchase

[Thom Sturgill]

While I do not consider myself a neander (yet) I do have leanings that way. I am just setting up shop after many long years away from woodworking. I have some power tools, a few chisels and a number of carving knives. As far as planes go I have some violin makers planes (given as encouragement to get back to lutherie) but need regular hand planes.

I bought a small buck plane many years ago and recently bought a Buck #5. As far as I am concerned, I would have been better off throwing the money away on the newer plane although I can produce paper thin shavings with the block plane.

Looking at Highland Woodworking, I see that he seems to like the Anant Kamel planes as a less expensive plane (compared to the Lie-Nielsens he also sells) for the novice or hobbyist.

I wanted to know how you guys feel about them (if any have used them) and if you have other recommendations. Also what three or four planes should I have in my arsenal? I'm thinking I need a good #4, 41/2, or 5 smoothing plane and possibly a jointer in addition to the block plane.
I've thought about building one of the Hock kits for the experience (and the plane).

[Marcus Ward]

Don't buy cheap new planes, buy cheap old planes. The anant are, from what I hear, not that great and require a lot of work to get working. There are a couple of guys on here who sell rehabbed old stanleys and whatnot that will be worlds better than a new anant. If you have one plane get a 60 1/2 (low angle block plane), 2 planes get that and a #5, 3, get the aforementioned plus a 4, and 4, get all the previously mentioned plus a #7 or #8 jointer. I would also recommend a shoulder plane (depending on what you're doing, they're terribly handy), and a router plane. A couple of spoke shaves, and a really good cabinet scraper (#80). That oughta get you sliding down the slippery slope pretty good. :)

[Bill Houghton]

I can't answer on the Anant planes, though if I recall correctly some of them have received good reviews.

What are you making from wood? The larger the work, the larger the largest plane should be (this, by the way, is parallel to what's true with power tools). If you're planning to make furniture - chests, bookcases, that kind of thing - then a jointer plane is helpful. If you're focusing on smaller stuff, then a No. 5 or even just a No. 4, depending on scale, might be enough. I read somewhere that the rule of thumb is twice the plane length or greater - if you're looking at things 4 feet long or longer, a jointer should be on the list, at least eventually.

Everyone should have a No. 4 or No. 3 plane (size depending on the size of your hands - if you've got typical adult men's hands, a No. 4 probably makes most sense, but if they're smaller than average, a No. 3 may). A No. 5, with the iron cambered (curved) for stock reduction, may be the second to get. Experiment with those for a while, then see what direction your interests take you.

DON'T fall into the trap of buying lots of planes right away. Your first purchases will help you understand how these things work.

Reading's nice, too. I learned a lot years ago from "Planecraft," a book reprinted by Woodcraft and still available from them at the bargain price of $12 (which is about $2 more than I paid for it 15-20 years ago!). Garrett Hack's "The Hand Plane Book" is a nice complement, and may well be available from your local library. This will give you some theoretical structure under your practical learning in the shop.

[Brian Kent]

I bought an Anant 4-1/2 a couple of years ago. I have put a lot of time into it. It is up to about adequate, but not one I like to use. I have never seen a review of a Kamal where someone actually used it. A couple of weeks ago I asked Highland Hardware if it has been reviewed anywhere and haven't heard from them yet.

My only "inexpensive" planes that I love and use always are:

Lie-Nielsen 102 Low Angle Block Plane ($75 delivered)
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A!221.htm

Rosewood 11" Jack Plane ($35 plus shipping)
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=98%2E105%2E9050&dept_id=13602

Old Stanley #4 from ebay (about $35 with shipping)

[Thom Sturgill]

Bill, so far all I've made is shop equipment :D but intend to start with a shaker-style desk (fall front secretary) modified as a computer desk. Then a bedroom set. I bought the Buck to work on my workbench and gave up and used a power sander. I hope to get back to making violins and such, but that is a totally different discipline and at nearly 60 I'm not sure how long I will be up to that level of fine work.

I figured there probably would not be much help on mid priced planes, and tend to agree with the sentiment about buying good old planes but don't think I want to buy a fixer-up at this point. I would have to do a lot of research to know what I was buying and that's not what I'm into.

Thanks for the list suggestion, and I may talk to some of the folks that sell reconditioned planes here.

[Clint Jones]

Thom, If you dont want to spend the money on a LV or Lie Nielsen and decide the vintage route I would suggest buying from Walt Q at www.brasscityrecords.com (http://www.brasscityrecords.com) , rarebear at www.rexmill.com (http://www.rexmill.com) , Lynn Dowd, or Nic Obie who is a member on this forum. If you buy from Walt or Lynn the tool will not be ready to use but will be close. I know Nic Obie and Rarebear sharpen their irons and tune to use that is why you may pay a premium but you will get a good useable plane. I have been known to bring a few back to life but it seems like more and more people are contacting me and it is getting hard to keep up. Here is a No.5 I just finished for Jack on this forum. This is how a No.5 should be set up with a a slightly cambered blade. Well anyhow good luck and remeber tis a slippery slope.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff224/leonard_bailey/w5.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff224/leonard_bailey/w3.jpg

[Marcus Ward]

Outstanding work, Clint. What do you use to get the bodies in such fine condition?

Thom - there are plenty of options for good old users, and that is what I would wholeheartedly recommend. The new bling is too expensive for the cheap galoot like myself except in rare circumstances, and the new stuff just isn't up to snuff. Good old metal is where it's at. I've purchased from Nic, he's a straight up guy.

[Tim Sproul]

I wanted to know how you guys feel about them (if any have used them) and if you have other recommendations. Also what three or four planes should I have in my arsenal? I'm thinking I need a good #4, 41/2, or 5 smoothing plane and possibly a jointer in addition to the block plane.
I've thought about building one of the Hock kits for the experience (and the plane).

What do you want to do with your hand planes?

Surface prep for finishing? Get a smoother or few.
Truing lumber milled with power tools? Get a jointer.
Prep lumber for feeding a power thickness planer? Get a jack.

[Thom Sturgill]

Well, I bought a LN 102 low-angle block plane (Brass not steel ;)) and am bidding on a Stanley Bailey #5 with corrugated bottom. Light rust and has most of the japanning, wood looks good. Did some large tool reconditioning many years ago and I think the process will make the tool more valuable to me than buying one someone else reconditioned. Only issue would be sharpening a cambered blade if I decide to go that way. I've sharpened many chisels and other irons but only cutting knives with curved blades.

Thanks for the info guys! BTW Clint, your link for rarebear doesn't work. And BrassCityRecords does not seem to have anything in stock. (That influenced my decision to try reconditioning one myself if I find something likely.)

[Joe Cipriano]

Thom:

If you're a member of FWW.com, there's an article by Garrett Hack titled "Handplanes I Can't Live Without", available for download. Lists the 8 planes he considers an absolute necessity, and why. Doesn't push any particular brand or price point; five of the eight are old Stanleys (with their modern equivalents listed). As someone who knows "jack" about planes, I found the article educational...

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=29821

HTH

[Danny Thompson]

Thom

I've read many posts that say Anant = junk.

Re: rehabbing. Don't do it! Just kidding (Marcus). It sounds like you have the right frame of mind for it.

Re: which planes? Phil Lowe recently answered this on the FWW site video clip. His recommendation was:

A smoother (#3 or 4)
A rabbet (or shoulder) plane
and a jointer (#7 or 8)

Good luck on the #5. Whatever you get, come back and post pix.

[Thom Sturgill]

Looking at eBay, I starting wondering about reconditioning transitional models. Possibly laminating a new sole to clean them up. I know that would reduce 'antique' value, but I am interested in working planes. What is the consensus about:
a) transitional planes in general
b) replacing the sole on old wooden planes that need major flattening?

[Marcus Ward]

Some people maintain that transitionals are excellent, esp when tuned up. Some (patric leach) think they make good firewood. I prefer the all metal planes and have one transitional that I need to do some work on. It needs a new sole but I can't be bothered to fiddle with it because I have baileys in that size. There was a thread about it a month ago or so about rehabbing transitionals. You might find it in the search.

[Phillip Pattee]

Thom,
A standard set for most woodworking would be a 60 1/2 low angle block, a #3 or #4 smoother, a #5 jack, and a #7 or #8 jointer. I would definitely lay in a jointer last. I started out with a stanley handyman smoother that was given to me. Who knew a free plane could be so expensive. All of my planes are old stanleys. I like the baileys, they work well and are quite affordable. I get them off of the auction site just like you are trying to do. As a rule of thumb, I check the price of an anant plane (not the kamal, but the original cheaper ones) and set that as the maximum price I'll pay for a vintage bailey. When I win one, I know I have some fettling to do, but I also know I got a good plane for less than the price of an anant! I haven't heard anyone rave about anant planes, or groz planes either.
There are several recent threads on how people refurbish their planes. You should read those posts. Rarebear www.rexmill.com (http://www.rexmill.com) is down right now--not sure what the problem is, but they were talking about it over in woodnet forums a few days ago. I expect the site will come back up, and it is a good resource for handplanes.
You mentioned that you would look at transitional planes--would you consider wooden planes? I don't own any, but several members here do and swear by them. Mujingfang planes available at www.Japanwoodworker.com (http://www.Japanwoodworker.com) have a good reputation and are moderately priced. They might be the solution you are looking for.;)

[Jack Camillo]

I second the vote to not buy cheap (anant) planes. I fell for that (brand). I'm waiting for the day I come across a justified way of destroying the one anant block plane I bought. It's really a piece of crap. Any destructive ideas out there?

[Tim Sproul]

You need a paperweight on your desk at work.

[Clint Jones]

I second the vote to not buy cheap (anant) planes. I fell for that (brand). I'm waiting for the day I come across a justified way of destroying the one anant block plane I bought. It's really a piece of crap. Any destructive ideas out there?

Send it to me. I will get it to work good and send it back. -Clint

[Jack Camillo]

Too many people would see it, Tim, and think I was trying to show something off. Now, if it was mangled and unrecognizable, you might be on to something. But thanks for the reply.

[Jack Camillo]

Oh, sure, it'll work. But no joy there. The other day it fell apart midstroke, and I haven't touched it again.