Best Way to Transport and Unload a Cabinet Saw?

[Rob Anthony]

I get to pick up my new (to me) 1966 Unisaw tonight and I'm incredibly excited!!! The gentleman that I'm purchasing it from has a cabinet shop and a forklift so loading it into the vehicle shouldn't be a problem. It's unloading it that I'm worried about since it's just going to be my brother and I unloading it manually.

I have a few options for vehicles - either a trailer, a cargo van, or a 12 foot U-Haul style box truck.

The gentleman that I'm purchasing it from recommended transporting it upside down since it's top heavy. That makes sense to me, but would it be opening a can of worms for unloading it?

Even though it would make more steps to align it properly, would it make sense to remove the cast iron top before transportation?

Also, which vehicle would you guys recommend that would make it the easiest for two guys to manually unload it into my garage? Are there any special techniques that would make it safer and easier?

[Steve Dewey]

Trailer is lower to the ground & offers the easiest unloading. If you have a decent ramp on the trailer you can use a hand truck or dolly to manuver the saw off - is your shop "on grade"?

I'd ship it upright being sure to secure it properly (several tie downs). Perhaps take the fence or wings off if need be.

You can disassemble as needed on the trailer to make unloading easier - wings off, top off etc.

My 110# wife & I unloaded my new PM2000 from the back of a pickuptruck - it was not easy. The cabinet with motor was pretty darn heavy. Wish I had my tractor with pallet forks on the loader then.

[Lee Schierer]

Once you have it on your truck tie it down. Then when you arrive at your destination untie it, get the truck about 50 feet from where you want it and drive backwards as fast as you can and spike the brakes...the saw will come right off the truck......:D

Seriously, tie it down in whatever transport you have and then drive carefully home. I wouldn't flip it over because there is a good chance of breaking something turning it over each way and it won't do the alignment any good either. If you feel the need to reduce the CG then lay it down on one side. Remove the hand wheels before doing this.

A trailer will allow you and several friends to get around the saw, but refrain from picking it up by the table extensions. You will break or bend something. A couple of 2 X 4's under the top, not the wings, sticking out each side will give four of you something to hang on to and you can carryt the saw like it was on a stretcher. This saw will weigh more than two people so get four people to handle it. An extra pizza or a couple of free cuts after it is in your shop should work for payment.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have not done it myself, but I heard that it is easier and safer to transport a cabinet saw on its top - upside down. When you do it this way you can rotate the saw into a low trailer fairly easily. Take the extension tables off - I would not bother removing the top. Start with the saw upright, as close to the back of the trailer as possible. Rotate the saw onto its side and into the trailer. Rotate the saw one more time onto its top. Tie it down and rock on.

[Mark Hulette]

Rob-

First off, congrats on the new cab saw- nice Christmas gloat :D

There's one strict answer to your question(s)= it depends.

I was going to say "forklift" and it's good that you've got one available on at least one end of the operation!

Without knowing the specifics to what you have at your disposal as far as vehicles- I'd go with the trailer but (it depends) on the type of gate that it has and (it depends) on the height of the trailer bed. If at all possible, I'd quickly throw together a stable rolling platform made from 2x4s on edge so you and your buddy won't slip a disc. That way the guy you're buying it from could load it with the forklift onto the platform that's already in the trailer.

Also, if you have access to a box van with a hydraulic lift gate, you'd be all set. You might check with your local Ryder rental place to see if they will swing you a deal for a couple of hours on one of their vans with a lift.

Otherwise it's "heave ho"- be careful!

[Jamie Buxton]

If you remove the cast iron top, keep your eyes open for shims between the top and the base. Capture each one, note its location, and replace it in the same location when you reassemble the saw. The shims, if they're there, align the table to the bevel axis of the blade.

[Jason King]

As someone who moved a 2200 pound saw last weekend, I would highly recommend a flat bed trailer. It's hard to be more specific without knowing more details.

If the saw is attached to a pallet of some kind, the "top-heavy" problem can be mostly solved, and the palleted saw can be strapped down to the flat bed.

If it isn't palletized, I would make sure to go slow, and be careful with how you strap the saw down. It is possible to damage your saw by strapping it down in the wrong manner. Let common sense be your guide.

Jason

[Sue Wise]

I picked up my used Grizzly cabinet saw with a utility trailer and two strong young men. (One, being a high school football player.) They just picked it up and walked it on to the trailer bed. Then we tied it down using strong tie downs.

No problems on highway or the twisty mountain roads to my house.

[Gary Muto]

I moved a 5 HP unisaw with the top on (no wings or rip fence rails) using a mid size (S-10) pickup. It was a gut buster to lift on and off.
Two years later, I bought a new delta and figuring I'd have to align everything anyway, I took the top off leaving just the cabinet, trunions and the motor. I strapped it in at the front of my pick-up and had no problems transporting it. Two of us easily unloaded it and carried down a flight of stairs to my basement. I was ready to take the motor out too, but it was unnecessary. If you remove teh top, pay attention to any washers that are used as shims between the cabinet and the top. Well worth the effort to remove all top surfaces.
HTH, congrats and good luck.

[George Bregar]

I will tell you how I did it Saturday night...I'm picking up a Unisaw, 8" Delta DJ-20 jointer, and a 12" Jet Bandsaw. :eek: Also wondering about storage...I think there is zero chance of getting this in my basement...maybe the saw if I break it down, and likely the band saw, but the jointer, no way I can make the tight turn. Issues of rust if I leave it in an unheated garage? I guess I could take it in the wider front entrance and use it as a sofa table in my living room ;)

[Terre Hooks]

I get to pick up my new (to me) 1966 Unisaw tonight and I'm incredibly excited!!! The gentleman that I'm purchasing it from has a cabinet shop and a forklift so loading it into the vehicle shouldn't be a problem. It's unloading it that I'm worried about since it's just going to be my brother and I unloading it manually.

I have a few options for vehicles - either a trailer, a cargo van, or a 12 foot U-Haul style box truck.

The gentleman that I'm purchasing it from recommended transporting it upside down since it's top heavy. That makes sense to me, but would it be opening a can of worms for unloading it?

Even though it would make more steps to align it properly, would it make sense to remove the cast iron top before transportation?

Also, which vehicle would you guys recommend that would make it the easiest for two guys to manually unload it into my garage? Are there any special techniques that would make it safer and easier?


I transported mine in a Chevy Silverado 2wd. I took the tailgate off and backed up to where I would wedge two 2x4's between the lower part of the bed and a raised portion of the concrete driveway/garage (securing the 2x4's.)

Me and another fella slid it off the truck, down the 2x4's and onto the shop floor in 23.45 seconds. Slid it across the shop floor and we were on our way to the fridge for a celebratory beer and to collect wrenches for assembly in 60 seconds.

[Gary McKown]

When I got my used Griz 1023SL from one of the members here, wife and I got it home, out of the minivan, and in the shop by ourselves. Disassembled as much as possible - fence, rails, top, wings flat on the floor, and put some 1X strips and an old blanket on top of these. Cabinet (we left the motor in place, but it could easily also come off) on its back on top of the blanket. The cabinet was the most difficult to unload, but slid fairly easily out the back and onto a hand truck with nary a scratch.

I figured I would want to disassemble/clean/realign everything anyway, so why not make it easy and take it apart before loading? In this broken-down configuration, any of the transporters you mentioned would do fine.

[john tomljenovic]

I use a handtruck w/ a ratchet tiedown wrapping both together. if you can score an appliance dolly even better. two people (three is the best) can get it up a pickup truck bed w/ ramps fairly easily. a low trailer would be safer though. 500# is lighter than you think. taking the extension wings off is about all I would do for disassembly.

save the lift truck for something over 2000#.

good luck.

[john tomljenovic]

I don't think you have to flipp it upside down. if you can secure some ratcheting tiedowns over the top or around its side up against the wall you should be fine

[Rod Sheridan]

My wife and I unloaded a General 650 from the minivan, down the stairs, and into the shop using an appliance dolly for the stairs move.

To get it out of the van, we layed it on its back, slid it out of the van base first, and stood it up as it came out of the van.

The appliance dolly took care of the move from the driveway, through the house and down the stairs. To lift it onto the mobile base, I used a shop crane and some nylon slings.

Doing it the above way requires that you only lift a fraction of the weight in any step, (except for the shop crane part) which makes it safer for you and your machinery..........Regards, Rod.

[Rob Anthony]

There are some great ideas here guys. I'm leaning towards using the utility trailer because it's low to the ground and has ramps that we can walk it down. I'm thinking I'll strap it to an appliance dolly and the two of us can just walk it down <fingers crossed>.

While it's in the trailer, we'll use ratchet straps to make attach the dolly and saw tightly to the sides.

I also have a couple of moving dollies that I can use to build a sled for the thing with some 2x's and plywood sheets, but then I'd run into trouble getting it off once it was in the garage. If the moving dolly doesn't look like it will work, then I'll probably go that route. Worst case, I can break it down completely once it's home and lift it off the dolly piece by piece, but I'll avoid that if possible.

Wish me luck and I'll post some pics of my new baby once I get her home.

Cheers!
Rob

[M Toupin]

Use the van or a pickup truck. Remove the wings and leave the top on, at that point you have a box. Open the back of the van/truck and back up to the saw. The top of the saw should be a bit higher than the bed of the vehicle at that point. If not shim it up with 2X4s so the top edge is slightly higher than the bed of the vehicle. Tilt the saw into the bed so it's resting with the edge on the bed. Grab it by the bottom and rotate it into the bed with it resting on the top. To unload it just reverse the process.

A uni is not that heavy or awkward, there really is no need to remove the top or motor. When you get it home flip it out onto a furniture mover or use an appliance dolly if you need to get it down stairs.

I've used all the above listed methods, this is the easiest way I've found. Don't over think it.


Mike

[Ryan Eldridge]

I used a utility trailer to move my unisaw a few weeks ago. I bought it from a shop just like you it sounds. It was on a pallet and the shop I bought it from forked it on the trailer for me.

I then used some ratcheting tie downs (4 I think) two over the top and then two more to capture the sides.

When I got home I parked it in the garage for a night and then the next day hitched the trailer back up to make sure it would not flip up on me, lowered the ramp, lifted the edge of the pallet a little bit to get some cardboard under it.

Then I just started inching on the trailer bed until it was on the cardboard, slid it down the ramp carefully and it was done, I think it took me about 10 mins to do it alone.

I like the trailer idea.

[Heather Thompson]

Two weeks ago my husband and I brought home my new (used PM66), top removed and no wings, we lifted it out of the back of my 05 Dakota. Just think the lift through, I weigh 128 and my husband has cerebal palsy, think and be safe. Enjoy your new saw!!!!!!!! :D

Heather

[Alfred Clem]

With home sales as lousy as they are, the moving guys' business is in a slump, if you were to ask my guess. Why not get them to drop by your place and give you a hand? Shouldn't cost as much as a hernia or a smashed hand. There is an intelligent limit to all this do-it-yourself macho nonsense. Let the pros earn a living.

Al Clem
Sedona, AZ

[Paul Joynes]

Alfred has it right. I paid $80/hr for two professional movers to place my General 650 into my basement.

[Lawrence Smith]

When I bought my used PM 66 I used a rental truck with a hydraulic lift gate to move it. The cabinet shop I bought it from had it on a dolly and my son and I just rolled it onto the lift gate, raised it up to the truck bed and into the truck. We tied it securely to the truck sides and secured the dolly it was on. We did the reverse procedure when we got it to my shop. Getting it off the dolly was not a problem. We just slide it onto a stack of two by fours and one by one removed them until it was on the shop floor. I believe the total cost of the rental truck was less than $75 bucks plus fuel.

[Robert Conner]

I picked up a UniSaw two weeks ago. I took the extensions off, Blocked the motor as they do with a new Saw. Lower the motor onto a block of wood between the motor and the side cabinet. Just use the hand wheel so it is supported not hanging from the mounts, you might want to cushion it with a heavy towel the factory does this with a block of foam. I slid the saw into a compact pick up truck on its' back. If your saw has any protrusions either remove them or block it up you might want to use some more towels to cushion it. I placed a 2x4 under the back again with some towels. Two people were needed to tilt and lift it onto the truck and to remove it. I moved it around with a hand truck.
I have also used a Jeep Cherokee to move one.
Robert

[Lewis Cobb]

My wife and I unloaded a General 650 from the minivan, down the stairs, and into the shop using an appliance dolly for the stairs move.

To get it out of the van, we layed it on its back, slid it out of the van base first, and stood it up as it came out of the van.

The appliance dolly took care of the move from the driveway, through the house and down the stairs. To lift it onto the mobile base, I used a shop crane and some nylon slings.

Doing it the above way requires that you only lift a fraction of the weight in any step, (except for the shop crane part) which makes it safer for you and your machinery..........Regards, Rod.


Hi Rod - what's this shop crane you are talking about? Have you got a picture of this thing? Is it a DIY thing or something you bought?

I'm contemplating the purchase of a jointer that I am going to have to hoist up somehow and set down on a mobile base.

[Rob Anthony]

The saw is now safely home in my garage. I put way too much thought into it as it was really no problem at all. We were able to drag it into the trailer with no problem, then just turned it over onto it's top for transportation. It rode well upside down. When we got home, my brother and I stood it back up and got it onto a mover's dolly. It rolled out of the trailer easily from there.

I was expecting a huge problem, but it was actually pretty easy to do.

I'll take some pics later. The gentleman who sold it to me powered it up in the shop and it ran fine. It still has an original Rockwell motor.

The top has a few dinks, but overall it appears to be in good shape. The tilt and raise wheels spin smoothly. I'll have to check it out when I get some spare time this weekend to see if it needs adjustment.

It was repainted at some point in it's 42 year lifetime. It looks OK, but has some spots that are peeling. I think I'll at least strip down the outside and give it a nice even coat before it makes it downstairs into the shop.

The dust cover has been replaced with a painted piece of MDF, and the motor cover is not there, but that wasn't unexpected.

All in all, it's a decent piece. For $405 I'm very happy at this point.

Now I just need to order a VFD, put an Amana blade on there, and put it to use...

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys!

Cheers!
Rob

[keith ouellette]

I had to move a saw once and another time I moved a very heavy combo machine. I did both the same way. On a pallet (your only interested on the down part) right side up. All I had to do was slide the pallet down a ramp using a come along (It's a wench you crank by hand: cost $20) I had a lawn trailer with a ramp gate and put a piece of plywood on the ramp to make it easier. It worked great.

[Steve Leverich]

Lewis, this is probably what you're asking about -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35915

also often called a "cherry picker"... Steve

[Bob Feeser]

Everybones situation is different, but I will reflect on how I did it for my situation. Anything that you can glean from it is welcome.
I bought a new Powermatic 66 in 2004. I have a shop in the basement. The stairs are not that wide, and at the bottom, a wall juts out, narrowing the passageway. It's a 600 pound saw.
I called Powermatic, and they said, remove the top, and the motor, but do not touch the trunion. (It would be a bugger to get it set right again)
So I removed the few bolts that held the cast iron top on, then I tilted the cabinet over onto a blanket, with the motor opening side facing down. I had moved the blade so the motor would be retracted into the cabinet area, so when I lowered it, the motor would not be hitting the ground. Then after lowering to the ground, I used the bevel handle/wheel to gently lower the motor until it touched the blanket. I only had to remove 2 bolts, undo the belts, and then lift the saw back to upright. (There is not adjustment for the motor, because it slides along 2 flat iron surfaces, so other than getting the belt tension right, it is a no brainer.) Then I wrapped the 100 pound motor in a blanket, tied it to a hand truck, and moved it down stairs. I did the same thing with the cast iron top, and the cabinet to the saw, which at this time weighed about 300 and some pounds. Once in the basement, I was able to lay the hand truck down, and roll it into the other room, then reassemble.
I also had this challenge with a heavy 8" jointer, which I could not disassemble. The fear, and danger is that the thing starts to move on you, and you can not stop it on the way down the steps, and it winds up taking you and it to the basement, pinning you to the floor, and possibly worse.
So when I moved my old Band Saw, circa 1948 made out of cast iron, I used a hand truck, heavy duty, and a come along, and slowly winched it down the steps. I was below it, but only to hold it on one of the steps, while re-positioning the outfeed on the come along. It was a 2 man job, go slow.
I was dreaming of a PM 20" planer 5hp, but it weighs 700 pounds or more, and you can not disassembe it, so it may be on permanent back shelf, in the priority department, and I do not want to dedicate the space in the garage, and have to go up the steps into another room, every time I want to plane a board.
Hope some of this helps.

[Lewis Cobb]

Lewis, this is probably what you're asking about -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35915

also often called a "cherry picker"... Steve

Thanks Steve -
strange looking thing - amazing what you learn trolling the threads on this forum. I am sure I can bum or rent one of these locally when the time comes.

Cheers,
Lewis

[Mark Hulette]

Thanks Steve -
strange looking thing - amazing what you learn trolling the threads on this forum. I am sure I can bum or rent one of these locally when the time comes.

Cheers,
Lewis

Lewis- those are also known as an engine hoist (used to pull engines out of cars :rolleyes:)- just about any auto mechanics shop will have one (you probably know someone that has one!)

[Stan Smith]

To move my machines around, including my Jet TS w/ 52 inch wing, I have the all on wheels. The TS is on an HTC base. When I first got it, I put it on the base and never moved it again in my previous shop. 6 years later we moved. I rented a truck with a tommy lift and rolled the saw onto the lift. Did the reverse at the new location. No adjustments were needed either. FWIW