Filling grain

[Jim Dunn]

I have some qtr swn wht oak and need to fill the grain? I think:confused:. Seem to be a little rough as I draw a fingernail across the grain even after sanding to 220. What to use?

Can I use a wipe on poly over a tung oil? Can the tung oil go on over a grain filler/stain?

I'm really up against it as it for my granddaughters for Xmas and I need to getRdone.

[Todd Burch]

Well, what you use depends on what you are going for. Dark? Light? Natural? Mission? Glass finish or just smoother?

Have you ever filled grain before?

Todd

[Jim Becker]

I would use a paste filler, such as Behlen's, which generally goes on after any stain/dye and after the piece is sealed. You can use clear or colored, depending on the effect you want to achieve...

[Steve Clardy]

I hate working with grain filler.









I hate grain filler.





Did I say I hate working with grain filler? :confused::D:D

I avoid it if at all possible.
I usually fill the grainy voids with lacquer.

[Jim Dunn]

Well, what you use depends on what you are going for. Dark? Light? Natural? Mission? Glass finish or just smoother?

Have you ever filled grain before?

Todd

No Todd I haven't and looking down the thread I don't think I will:eek:! That is if Steve has anything to do with it.

Actually I'm making a rocking horse and as the grain is quite pronounced I thought I'd fill it and make it smoother. The finish was going to be? Probably stained a light brown color to match "those pretty horsey's" as my granddaughter calls them.

[Jim Dunn]

I hate working with grain filler.









I hate grain filler.





Did I say I hate working with grain filler? :confused::D:D

I avoid it if at all possible.
I usually fill the grainy voids with lacquer.

Wow Steve you really do hat grain fillers don't ya:D

[glenn bradley]

Jeff Jewitt had an article on using plaster of Paris as a grain filler when working with oil as your second finish material. I tried it, worked great. The oil makes the PoP turn translucent and after the first coat of finish it literally disappears. You can then use any compatible material to build to what you're after.

[Steve Clardy]

Wow Steve you really do hat grain fillers don't ya:D

Yep.
I did a 5x12 1-1/4 thick red oak dining table once.
The batch of boards I got were really grainy.
I thought I would pull a fast one and fill the grain, instead of having to put 4-5 coats of finish on it.
Well. It ended up being more work than simply doing it as I usually do.:rolleyes:

So yes, I hate grain filler. :D

[Jay Davis]

I work with Oak quite a bit. I really like Bartley paste filler. Woodcraft used to sell it. They switched to Behlen which I don't thinks works as well. Bartley's is very easy to use. Just follow the directions. You need to decide if you are going to color the grain or not. Make sure you mix the can quite well.

I use a plastic spatula and go with then across the grain. Let dry a very short amount of time 5 minutes. Then wipe with burlap cross grain >lightly< or you will get down into the grain. Let dry overnight. Then sand using a palm sander.

If you hand sand oak at this point you will lower the level of the wood where the grain is. And you will be a sad panda. If you want a perfectly flat surface. Be very careful at this point. The grain on oak is very fragile, there is more air than wood if that makes sense. If you sand it flat before filling. Then carefully sand after filling it will work great. When I say careful I mean resist the urge to sand on one edge of the sander, keep it flat. You might have to re-apply filler depending on how careful you are with the first application.

If you want to skip the burlap wiping just coat thickly with the plastic spatula. Let it dry at least 24 hours. Then WEAR A DUST MASK and sand outside. Again be careful with the grain.

Practice on red oak before going near that quarter sawn white oak with finish.

[Per Swenson]

Hello all.

We switched to all waterborne finishes.

And I love this stuff.....

http://www.targetcoatings.com/sealer_emtech-8800.html

Per