Are you aware of how much and what variety sandpaper is in your shop?

[Wolf Kiessling]

I have been carving on a fluted bowl and the last couple of days I have been involved in "everybody's favorite chore", sanding. I was surrounded by several different types and grits of sandpaper and just telling myself how much I love this. Then I got thinking, just how much sandpaper do I have? I did a little inventory and was amazed that I have so much of what I hate the most. Here are my findings:

sleeves for the drill press 2" drum sanders - coarse and medium grits

sleeves for the rotary tool 1/2" and 1/4" drum sanders - coarse and medium grits

hook and loop disks for 5" 8 hole ROS - 120, 180 and 220 grit

disks for 5" x 1/4" ROS - coarse, medium and fine

stick on disks for 6" disk/belt sander - 150 grit

4" x 36" belts for disk/belt sander - 50, 80 and 120 grit

1/4" belts for sanding stix - 120, 180, 240 and 320 grit

euro type rolls - 150 and 220 grit

foam padded sticks (nail files from beauty supply) 100, 180 and 400/600 grits

9" x 11" sheets

garnet - 100, 120, 150 and 220 grit
aluminum oxide - 180 grit
wet/dry - 400, 600 and 1000 grit
Norton 3X - 100, 150 and 220 grit

I try to always buy the 9x11" sheet garnet and aluminum oxide in the contractor packs and have quite a bit of that stuff left in almost all of the grits. I am, however, going to phase that stuff out and ultimately have only the Norton 3X, or 3M Sandblaster, in those grits. IMHO, the additional cost for this sandpaper is made up by superior performance and lasting power.

2" disks, locking back - 60, 80 and 100 grit
2" disks, velcro - 100, 150, 220 and 320 grit

flap sanders - assorted sizes - 60, 80 and 120 grit

I am not even going to count the belt type sandpaper I use on the sharpening machine wheels nor the aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, ceramcut stone and diamond burrs.

That seems to be a lot of "disposable tools". I am now wondering how much I spend on this stuff every year. I don't even think I'll keep track of it, it might make me cry. I would guess that just about everybody has an inventory similar to this. How about you?

[Donnie Raines]

I dont have to much.....just some 220. 400. 600, an some 1200 for finishing. I use card scarpers and smoothing planes most os the time....I have even made odd shaped sized scrapers for coves and roundover cuts. For all the more detailed cust I do use sandpaper.

...I wonder how much your sandpaper adds up to comapred to my hand tools i use for prepping the stock?????..... :D :D

DonnieR

[JayStPeter]

I'm with you there. I have some different machines, but similar stock. In my early woodworking days (about 3 years ago :rolleyes: ), I built a box to hold sandpaper. Just a simple box that held full sheets with 7 or 8 little shelves in it. Ha, not even close to even being able to just hold the full sheets I have. Not to mention the sheets I buy just for sharpening and disks, drums, belts etc. I've also been buying up scrapers and smoothing planes to avoid the need for all this, but they just require more sharpening paper :eek:
Hmmmm, maybe a Tormek will simplify my snadpaper requirements :D

Jay

[Dale Thompson]

Hey Wolf,
What's the big deal? I'm so good with my sharp saw blades and lathe tools that I usually get a 400, or better, finish right off the machine. :D :D

Seriously, though, you make an EXCELLENT point. We should evaluate what we REALLY need. I see a lot of folks who go to 1200 or even higher on the lathe. I go to 400 with an application of EEE-Ultra Shine. If I can't afford the Ultra-Shine, I just burnish with the shavings. On a couple of lucky occasions, I got some rather interesting effects by burnishing Oak with Walnut or even Mahogany shavings.

The other surprising thing is, I've talked to a couple of very experienced furniture refinishers (that is an art unto itself) who have indicated that they would rather start their staining and laquering art at a 150 grit than, say, a 220 or higher grit. I've seen some of their work and it is great. GHEESH!! I'm getting out of this hobby and use the money to renew my Playboy Magazine prescription which expired 30 years ago. HMMM, Or was it ME that expired 30 years ago? ;) :)

Dale T.

[Wolf Kiessling]

Hey Wolf,
What's the big deal? I'm so good with my sharp saw blades and lathe tools that I usually get a 400, or better, finish right off the machine. :D :D

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You are JUST SO good... :p

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The other surprising thing is, I've talked to a couple of very experienced furniture refinishers (that is an art unto itself) who have indicated that they would rather start their staining and laquering art at a 150 grit than, say, a 220 or higher grit. I've seen some of their work and it is great. GHEESH!! I'm getting out of this hobby and use the money to renew my Playboy Magazine prescription which expired 30 years ago. HMMM, Or was it ME that expired 30 years ago? ;) :)

Dale T.

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Yeah, I do that myself sometimes. I have started staining as early as 100 grit. The coarser the texture, the deeper/stronger the color. It's a trick though. Found out, though, with waterborne stains it's MUCH, MUCH easier.