How should I have done it?

[Jack Hogoboom]

I was installing some shop cabinets using a French cleat system this weekend. I had a dried 2x4 that I wanted to use for the cleat. Since it was so thick, I figured if I could rip it in half, I'd be able to get 16' of cleat.:rolleyes:

I took a scrap piece of 2x4 over to the table saw and stood there for a moment trying to figure out how to re-saw it safely. I couldn't quite get comfortable with raising the blade all the way and seeing if I could cut it all at once. I would have had my hand awfully close to the blade without enough height on the fence for support or clearance.:eek: I thought about an article I had read about re-sawing it in two passes, each a little short of 1/2, and then bandsawing the remaining thickness, but I couldn't figure out how to safely avoid pinching the blade.

After thinking it over for a few more minutes, I decided to try my bandsaw. I set the fence for 3/4 of an inch, butted the 2x4 up against the fence and smoothly cut the scrap in two, close to equal pieces (certainly good enough for my purpose).

Then I tried the same thing with the full 2x4. It worked OK at first, but then the blade started to wander. I kept pushing the board against the fence, but about 1/2 way through, the blade wandered to the point where the whole exercise was getting pretty ridiculous and I was having trouble pushing the wood into the blade.:o

I stopped the saw, flipped the board end for end and started again. Same thing happened. In the middle, the two saw cuts were almost 1/2" apart. At that point, I gave up and cut the board up on my CSMS, sacrificing the middle area where the cuts drifted the worst.:(

I thought about using my single point fence and adjusting the cut as the blade started to wander, but with an 8' board, I was worried I'd run out of room to angle the board if the drift got too bad. I suppose I could've cut the board shorter to start and then resawed the pieces, but I really wanted to have one long board hung on the wall rather than a bunch of short pieces.:rolleyes:

Any suggestions as to how I should have done it? I have another 2x4 that I'd like to use for the same thing.:eek:

Thanks,

Jack

[Brandon Shew]

I think that your idea of cutting 1/2 then flip and rotate on the TS would have been the best idea. Cut it a little more than 1/2 and then there's no need to bandsaw it afterwards. Use a featherboard.

Also - peaple saw much thicker stock on their bandsaws without drift (cutting veneers) - sounds like you may need more tension on the blade and/or a wider blade.

[Jamie Buxton]

You're right in thinking that the bandsaw is the tool of choice to resaw something 3 1/2" tall.

It sounds like you didn't have the bandsaw fence adjusted for the blade's drift angle. Pay attention to that, and the next 2x4 should go much better.

[Todd Burch]

I suspect a dull bandsaw blade. What flavor blade? How wide a blade? About how much tension? What flavor bandsaw?

For me, I use the tablesaw. Faster. Like Brandon said, cut just over 1/2 way through, then flip and repeat.

Todd

[glenn bradley]

Band saw is the right tool for this job. On long cuts in two-by lumber I find that I can follow a line by eye better than using the fence or better still use one of these: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70335

I made one for my old C-man aluminum deck, fenceless saw by putting together some scrap that was long enough to clamp to the table and then had the "point" attached with screws to hold it in position. Or you could buy one . . . but why? http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/28208a-lg.jpg

Any variation will work and IMHO do better in less than square lumber. For a cleat I would probably go ahead and give it a run through the planer for a consistent thickness. Construction lumber often has a bit of twist and the TS wants to keep things straight. A cut that starts out straight can often bind or kickback on the TS as the piece tries to travel a non-straight path between the blade and fence. If your lumber is true, the TS should work fine.

[keith ouellette]

One thing I have done successfully a number of times is resaw on the table saw. I have even cut down a 4" thick by 5" wide slab of maple into 3 1 and 1/4" by 5" to trim out my work bench. I have never used a band saw for this and as long as the lumber is not to wide I doubt I ever will unless waist turns into an issue. I hear it takes a big band saw and a real good blade to re saw lumber without the problem you described.

[Grant Morris]

The table saw would have made this easier than the band saw because of its inherent support. The way to do it is to push the piece half way through then flip it over and push it through to the same point again. Then flip it around and do the same two procedures you just did to the uncut side. Your hands will never get close to the blade and you could have ripped it completely before you could have even located your band saw fence!