Chain saw suggestions?

[Dan Forman]

Well, it looks like I'm going to need a chain saw for making bowl stock. I was looking at a Stihl "Farm Boss" with a 20" bar, 3.8 hp, 13 pounds. Price was $369.00 http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS290.html

Any other brands to consider, or insights on size, weight or hp? I have a PM3520, so that's why I was thinking 20" bar.

I'm a little guy, more brains than brawn, (though some would argue I possess neither), and have never used a chain saw before, and really have no idea of what to look for. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Dan

[Hilel Salomon]

Hi,

As another "little man" let me first ask you some questions: Will you be using the chainsaw just for turning stock or for cutting down trees, limbs, etc.? A small relatively light saw will do just fine for turning stock that is medium to small. Echo's middle saws(not the 305) are great for limbs and trimming stock. For trees, you need a heavier saw. My advice would be to go to HD or Lowe's and see what saw you like and then NOT BUY IT!!! Stihl and Husqvarna have taken to making lighter less durable saws for the consumer market. When you see a saw that feels right, look at the model, get the weight you want and then go and get a higher end Stihl or Husqvarna. I have both, with 365 and 372 in the Husky's and 360 and 660 in the Stihl. Unless you want to cut down huge trees, you don't need the 660. If you decide on a smaller saw, the echos (models 330 to 346 )are absolutely great, easy to start and fine for limbs, small trees and trimming blanks to size. Look them up at echousa.com. If you want a slightly larger but great saw, look into the stihl models 310 and 361. Some people have also been happy with the Husky model 50, but I've not had good luck with the middle range Husky's. Finally, try to get a dealer near you who enjoys a good reputation if you want a Husky or Stihl. Jonserud and Shidaiwa have good reputations, but I know nothing about their models. Whatever you do decide, let me know if I can help you. There are a few internet order sites that are reputable and reasonable.
Good luck, Hilel

[Julie Tanner]

funny this should get posted, I am also looking for a new chain saw. I however can not hold up one of the larger saw's. right now I have a poulin, (POOOOP) it is horrible to start.

I was looking at the Husky at Lowes.

[John Hart]

I just love my chainsaw. But I'm not going to recommend it. It's a 20" Makita and it has proven itself over and over. Unfortunately, getting someone to service it involves lots of driving and lots of money...so I had to learn how to do it m'self. Stihl is serviced more readily and by every mom and pop shop dotting the countryside.
I'm no giant myself, but I love the reach of the 20" bar. Not so much because of log diameter, but more for cutting lengthwise. The weight of the saw also helps.
My hardest lesson was learning how to sharpen and how often. Once I got it, cutting was much more pleasurable. I never was good with the files...but found the dremel chainsaw sharpening stones and they are great. (the stones at the mom and pop shops are equally as good and cheaper too!)
Another tough lesson was learning to keep my chain oil reservoir filled. Always.

Anyway...that's my two bits.

[mark page]

Coming from a family owned business of tree trimming & removal. 19 saws are Stihl industrials and one Husky. The Husky still looks new and all other Stihls look beat to death. The Stihls range from a 14 to the humongous 66. My brother inherited the family business and continues to thrive with it. All chains are re-filed to a non-stock angle and all engines are tweaked to increase rpm levels. I have more hours on a chainsaw than I care to from growing up with the business to cutting wood for the heating of several main homes and the main shop. I reach for a Stihl before anything else, but it's like woodworking equipment, pay once and cry once on price. Can't go wrong with a Stihl. I can't vouch for a non-industrial Stihl though.

[robert hainstock]

Hilel is right on. I have used Husquvara saws for thirty years, and they are excellant in the pro models. stay away from the "farm" models as they wi;ll disapoint you. In that thirty years of cutting, I have had only two saws, a model 65, and a model 64. Get one with a roller bar tip, a good Oregon chain. Sharpen the Chain after every tank of gas, and remeber that there is nothing more exciting than the sight of that rotating chain when it is about to encounter your hide. Good luck! :eek:
Bob

[Raymond Overman]

Every chainsaw thread I've ever read says buy the biggest orange saw you can afford (Stihl, Husky, Echo). I've got a husky 350 from before they started selling them at HD. I'm satisfied with it for working with bowl blanks but wish I had more CCs for my Alaskan Mill. My father has a little echo that Noah used to cut timbers for his ark. A friend of mine owns stihls. All of them are good saws.

That said, buy the most saw you can afford with the safety gear since you are not experienced with a chainsaw. You can never be too careful around a chainsaw. I would also suggest a dealer rather than a big box store. You will eventually need the service and it's nice to have a relationship started.

[Brian McInturff]

I have a Stihl 310 and love it. I've only bogged it down once and that was on a 26" Maple tree I was cutting down. I put an 18" bar on and haven't had any problems since(or on finishing that 26"er either). I would've got the 390 but they were out of stock and I didn't feel like waiting.

Brian

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dan I have the 360 and just love it. It has done everything I have ask of it and more. I have had two stihl's in 40 yrs. and gave the first to my brother. He is still using it.

[Philip Morris]

I have the MS310. This is a step up from the Farm Boss (MS290). They are not the pro-series. I am an avid hobbiest turner and have found it to be a great saw. I have a 20" bar. I wondered about the larger heavier saw becoming tiring, but just the opposite. The bigger saw makes quicker work of the log, resulting in less fatigue. I probably would have sprung for the pro saw if my income depended on it.

Julie, there was a recent thread on WoodCentral on chainsaw selection and the female turners indicated that they really found the compression release invaluable for them.

Also want to echo the comment about safety gear. Protect your legs with a decent pair of cut retardant chaps (Stihl's are $40 - 50, a lot cheaper than your Emergency Room deductible). Steel toe boots, gloves, helmet, hearing and eye protection should also be included. So although I agree that you should buy the most chainsaw you can afford, do so after you have subtracted the cost of quality safety equipment from your budget.

Philip

[Richard Madison]

Dan,
Suggest to read what Philip wrote about safety equipment a couple/three more times. I did. Eye/face protection is an almost absolute must. If budget permits, as novice chain sawyer, might even consider a "learner" Remington electric saw. Very light, very inexpensive, easy to start, and some more good things. Not for everyone, but just a thought.

Then you gotta learn chain sharpening, or pay the shop. Have had the shop grind some (ground off way too much), tried the little diamond sharpeners which sorta work, and the manual file. Lately I mount the file in a cordless VSR drill and hold the free end with a wood block with shallow hole drilled into it. My files have spiral teeth, so run drill in better direction. One quick pass per tooth seems to work.

Guess that was a couple of thoughts. Anyhow, good luck Dan, and motor carefully.

[Tony Wheeler]

I still have and use a stihl Farm boss that I bought used for 200 in 1980 can tell how many truck loads of osage orange and anything else that you want to throw at it you couldnt get me to buy any other saw unless it might be a small electic for inside the shop use only

[Dan Forman]

Thanks for your responses. I don't plan on cutting trees, but I talked to a tree maintenance service, and he said he would let me know when he takes down any hardwood trees, or does major pruning. He says he usually cuts the logs into 18" segments, so I would need to do any further trimming to blanks. I would have to go collect the wood from the customers property, but it will already be cut and stacked, so no limbing for me. There isn't very much in the way of hardwoods growing in the wilds around here, mostly fir and tamarack.

Dan

[Jim Becker]

I have the Farm Boss with an 18" bar. Very satisfied.

[Brett Baldwin]

Hey Dan, here's a thread about my choice for a chainsaw.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62944

I haven't had to do any service to it so I can't comment on ease of fixing (which I guess is a good thing) but I can say that the power to price ratio is superb.

[Steven Wilson]

That's the saw I bought a few years ago - great saw for turners and pretty darn good for everything else. It comes in at a nice price point too.

[John Bartley]

Maybe I could stick my nose in here ... I started selling Stihl in 1993 and my company (which I sold in 2001) still sells only Stihl but services anything that parts can be had for. Here's my thoughts...


As already said, Stihl, Husqvarna and Echo are the three brands that I wouold consider best quality and easiest to find parts and service for.
All three make several levels of quality, but none make a different level of quality just for the mass merchants.
Any chainsaw which is properly serviced "pre-sale" and then is carefully maintained and used according to its capability will outlast and out perform a "better" saw which is abused.
Most servicing dealers will service their own product before they service product sold at a mass merchant, even if the MM saw came in first (they might not admit it but it's true).


So, what would I buy if I was a hobbyist and wanted a saw that I could use for a long time - even as I got a bit older and weaker ...? I'd buy the best "quality" that I could afford, slightly smaller than I can handle now so that I'll still be ok with it in 10-15 years, with an extra BAR and chain so that when I get it stuck in a tree or block I can unbolt it and cut out the stuck bar. I'd buy it from a dealer, or take it to a dealer and pay for pre-use setup/checkup, then I'd take really good care of of - ie:fresh clean correctly mixed fuel, sharp chains, keep the saw clean, use the correct bar lube.

My recommendation for the hobbyist would be a Stihl MS260, or equivalent in Husqy or Echo, I'd buy it with an 18" bar and I'd learn how to look after it.

just my $0.02

cheers eh?

[John Hart]

Hey Dan, here's a thread about my choice for a chainsaw.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62944

I haven't had to do any service to it so I can't comment on ease of fixing (which I guess is a good thing) but I can say that the power to price ratio is superb.

Yep Brett...That's the saw I have too....and I got mine as a previous rental. Service is a problem. HD, while they will fix their own stuff...they will not service a previous rental that you have purchased from them. They will recommend a service outlet, but for me, that turned out too expensive and too far away. That said, I have downloaded the manual and done my own tuneups. I agree that it is a great saw. I've had mine for over 4 years and put it through the wringer, and I never have trouble starting it and it has tons of power.

[Jack Riley]

You've received plenty of good advise about which saws to buy! The one statement that you made which concerns me is that you've never used a chainsaw. Since you have already established a report with a tree surgeon, please take my advise and ask him to go over a "hands on" demonstration of chainsaw safety. A chainsaw can injure/kill you real quick if you don't know what you're doing. Don't be too proud to say, "please show me how to use this saw safely!"

Semper Fidelis
Jack

[Hilel Salomon]

My dealer (whom I trust) says that the Stihl 310 is excellent, but I don't know if it's made here or in Germany. I'm partial to German and Swedish made equipment, but I'm also ashamed that in a lengthy recommendation post, I didn't mention safety equipment. You ABSOLUTELY need to wear a safety helmet with screen and glasses. Early on I got a chip in my eye and had to rush to an opthalmologist. Personally, I cut a lot, and wear chaps as well and when I'm out in the field, safety boots. The chainsaw is far and away the most dangerous and potentially deadly tool you can use. No matter which saw you buy, acquaint yourself with the different types of chain. The less aggressive ones have anti kickback features that the occasional user should use. Good luck and Happpy sawing.
Hilel.

[Dennis Peacock]

I have the Stihl MS361 and all I gotta say is: If you can hang on to the saw it will cut a whole new world for ya. :rolleyes: :D

Seriously, the Echo, Husky, or Stihl are all three very good makes of saws. I've used a lot of other brand saws, and the Stihl I bought right at 2 years ago has been the best chainsaw that I've owned and operated to date.

Buy your saw at a local dealer. It really does make a difference when you need it checked out.

For the Ladies in the group? Check out Stihl's new EZ-Start line of saws. You won't believe how "easy" it is to start a chainsaw. ;)

[Dan Forman]

All of the safety comments have been taken to heart, I'm not big on risking life and limb.

So far I'm leaning toward either the Stihl 260 or 361. One thing I've found through a number of Google searches, is that by and large, the pro level saws are reported to stand up better over time, and are easier to use, have better anti-vibration systems, and better power: weight ratios. Also more expensive, of course.

Dan

[Joe Mioux]

So, what would I buy if I was a hobbyist and wanted a saw that I could use for a long time - even as I got a bit older and weaker ...? I'd buy the best "quality" that I could afford, slightly smaller than I can handle now so that I'll still be ok with it in 10-15 years, with an extra BAR and chain so that when I get it stuck in a tree or block I can unbolt it and cut out the stuck bar. I'd buy it from a dealer, or take it to a dealer and pay for pre-use setup/checkup, then I'd take really good care of of - ie:fresh clean correctly mixed fuel, sharp chains, keep the saw clean, use the correct bar lube.

My recommendation for the hobbyist would be a Stihl MS260, or equivalent in Husqy or Echo, I'd buy it with an 18" bar and I'd learn how to look after it.

just my $0.02

cheers eh?

I think this is just about the best recommendation that i have ever read regarding chain saws.

Buy a bit smaller AND an extra bar! I have had my bar stuck in a tree and it was a real pain getting it removed with a bow saw.

I have had my Stihl 023 with a 16 inch bar for 17 years. I used to cut a lot of firewood, but since moving to the new house in 2003, we don't have a wood burning fireplace anymore :(. The old house had a fireplace in the family room and when I added an all seasons room, I added a wood burner. (Best decision I ever made at that house)

I have used that saw to cut up some pretty large logs in the past, 30 plus inches in dia as well as a lots of smaller ones.

Today, I am glad I still own this saw and appreciate that I don't have more saw than I need for the occaisional tree limb trimming that I use it for now. LOML really wants us to add an all seasons room again "just like the one we had" so hopefully this saw someday may see more firewood cutting.

If I get into woodturning, this saw will work extremely well.

Point of note: I just went on Stihl's website and they show the 023 as a "new" saw. This is partially true. Stihl sold this model years ago, discontinued it (appartently) and now has re-introduced it.

I just really like the manuervabilty of this saw, Not to heavy, well balanced, more power than I needed, nicely sized bar for the head. It was and is a winner for what I formerly used it for and use it for today.
HTH
joe

[jim tracy]

I have owned Stihl 028 "Wood Boss" with a 16 inch bar for 22 years and it still keeps on cutting wood. For 15 of those years I heated my house with firewood that I cut (seven to eight cords a year). For me there is only one chainsaw to buy and that's a Stihl.

[Ken Massingale]

After going through several Poulans and McColloughs over the last few decades, I purchased a Husqvarna 455 Rancher. I looked them over closely at Lowes and at a Husqvarna dealer. Not seeing any difference I called Husqvarna and asked if the Lowes saws were of lesser quality than those at dealers. They assured me that the saws are identical. With a ~$75 difference in price I purchased at Lowes, and they accepted a 10% off coupon that I had from HD.
So far I have sawn several cords of dry Hickory and the Husqvarna never complained once. It is made in Sweden and the quality is obvious. I looked at Stihl but for my small farm use I couldn't justify the price difference.
Stihl, Husqvarna and Echo are all good saws, and the 5 year warranty on the Echo was tempting.
I don't think one can go wrong with either of the 3 brands.
ken

[Greg Narozniak]

Just like when your buying a Nail Gun check for local support. You need to be able to have the saw serviced and (to the best of my knowledge) you cannot ship the saw somewhere for service.

I purchased a used Stihl 026 from my local dealer. This is a Pro line saw that came with an 18" bar and with a new Full Chisel chain it runs and cuts like a dream.

I had an older Echo (Solid Orange, all metal housing) and while it cut well and served me for many years the Stihl is night and days above it. The Echo had NO safety features (i.e. Kickback chain brake, etc.) and was heavier than than the stihl I now have and is not in the same league as the Stihl.

My father purchased a Husky 359 with a 20" bar. While it is a nice saw, I would choose the Stihl over a Husky. Just my Opinion I prefer the feel of the stihl to the husky. The 359 does have more power than my 026 but the added weight does not justify it for me.

The brands to look for are Stihl, Husky and Jonsered (Same exact saw different colors), Shindaiwa, Echo, John Deere (Their CS series is made by Efco, very good european chainsaw company), Makita (Made by Dolmar another very good company across the pond) As a consumer you will never wear out any of these saws.

[Dave2 Brown]

Dan,

I started Turning about 5 years ago and have used a small Mac chainsaw from HD for preping the bowl blanks from wood mostly from the tree service guys like you plan. The Mac with the 18" bar and only 38cc does get the job done, but it takes a little time. I am on my second one, but at about $100 a copy this has been a good deal for me.

Just purchased a Husky 570 to go on an Alaskan mill and there is no comparison to the Mac. Having tried these two saws I think you would be real happy with one in between for what you want to do. Husky has a "Rancher" that should compare to the "Farm Boss". Either sounds like a good choice.

BTW Husky makes a helmet that I love. It has a face shield and a great set of ear muffs that are real easy to raise and lower.

Dave

[Tim Gruss]

I have the Stihl MS170 for small branches and use my Stihl MS310 for felling and milling. The MS310 and the Alaskian small log mill have made me over 2000 board feet of lumber so far. I post to another web site with all my milling and solar drying info. Anyone interested in learning this process,it's extremely easy,drop me a pm.

[Rich Souchek]

This forum holds some wonderful advice on turning, and is very helpfull to posters. In the same way for chainsaws, check out the chainsaw section of the website arboristsite.com .
They have taught me a world of stuff on chainsaws, including that we can get 3 different classes of saws, the cheapest stuff at the BORGs, the better class at the saw dealers, and the best pro saws.
Baileys offers very good prices on line, as well as many other places.
Hope you will learn some at these sites.
Rich S.

[Al Killian]

Dan, That is the same saw my buddy has. IT it has been a exellent saw and works great. I wouldnt buy anything less then a 18" bar, as alot of time when you get chunks to cut up it is easier if you can cut thru it in one pass. Plus the bigger saws can always have a smaller bar installed if they are needed for limbing.

[Dennis Peacock]

Dan,

All this said about saws and stuff....get you a set of "chaps" to wear when cutting, wear steel-toed boots, and I'd also advise to wear the helment, faceshiled, earmuff setup. I have it all and after a friend of mine was just "cutting up some wood in his yard" one day....that afternoon he had to go to the hospital and it required 78 stitches to fix his knee/leg. While chaps won't prevent the chain from grabbing the legs of them, they are designed to clog the teeth and sprocket of the saw in an instant as well as providing a better layer of protection for your legs.

BTW, if you settle on the MS361? You'll fall in love with a saw that will be there when you need it. :D

[Dan Forman]

Thanks for the continuing chain saw info. It's been put on the back burner for the moment, but I will need to get one soon. At the moment I haven't found any wood to cut up yet, will have to get more aggressive with my search.

Dan

[Scott Hooker]

Hi Dan,

I have had the Stihl Farm Boss 029 for ten years. I put a 20 inch bar on it. I love the saw. Plenty of power, starts easily, good safety features.

I did have a problem that I think everyone should know about. Last summer (2006), I had trouble starting the saw. I took it in for a tuneup at my local Stihl dealer. They had to replace the fuel filter assembly and carburetor due to bad gasoline! It seems in an effort to cut costs, the regular unleaded gas available at your local gas station has some bad stuff in it. I forget their theory, but it may have had something to do with the new additives. They recommend running 91 octane or higher in all small engines.

The rubber hose in the gas tank was like bubble gum - just disintegrated! Same thing with the rubber parts in the carb.....:mad:

Has anyone else had a problem such as this? Do you add anything to the gas in your small engines? I've made the switch and everything runs a little better on super unleaded! Per the local dealer's recommendation, I run every engine dry before putting away for the winter.

Scott

[Steven Wilson]

I put Stabil in the gas when I buy it (Stabil doesn't work in old gas), that will keep it useable for about a year. I've also switched over to using Amsoil Sabre 2stk oil. As for gas, you want to avoid ethanol and purchase non-oxygenated gasoline. You will usually find that as a high octane formulation ment for collector cars, boats, and small engines.

[Dennis Peacock]

I put Stabil in the gas when I buy it (Stabil doesn't work in old gas), that will keep it useable for about a year. I've also switched over to using Amsoil Sabre 2stk oil. As for gas, you want to avoid ethanol and purchase non-oxygenated gasoline. You will usually find that as a high octane formulation ment for collector cars, boats, and small engines.

I agree with using high octane fuel and I've been using the Amsoil 2stk oil for over 15 years now. Love the stuff and my small engines run better and cleaner. My last weedeater lasted me 20 years of hard use. :D

[Dan Forman]

Wow, thanks for that last exchange, never would have known that.

Dan