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View Full Version : 6" Jointer .... FOR FREE



Keith Devore
11-30-2007, 8:34 AM
Hey guys,

I have been lurking here for a while. I have been in the market for a small jointer to go along with my planer and my borrowed table saw so i could set up a temporary shop.

My quest ended at my grandfathers house with a FREE jointer. Its old ... but it works good. This is not it ... but it is the same model as this ...

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x1/debo16883/jointer.jpg


Couple of questions ... I am very experienced using these things but have never set one up ... any advice?

Also, what is a good way to clean surface rust off of cast iron?

Thanks for your help ... I am excited to start building ... and I better as my father in law's Christmas present is a bookshelf!!!


Thanks guys ...

Michael Schwartz
11-30-2007, 8:57 AM
As far as cleaning up the rust I would be carefull with abrasives as you can end up creating hollows in the bed which needs to be as flat as possible. Alot of rust can be scraped off with a razor blade, and then whats left can be removed with steel wool. I don't reccomend sanding off the rust as you could end up creating hollows in the machined surfaces.


You wil probably need to buy replacement knives or have the existing knives resharpened. In that case you will need to re set them.

Chuck Wintle
11-30-2007, 10:25 AM
Where is the jointer located?

David Stonner
11-30-2007, 10:46 AM
i have the same jointer...free from my grandfather's workshop (after his passing) as well! the fence attaches at the end of the outfeed bed and mine is warped somewhat...keep an eye on keeping the fence square to the bed after tightening. the knives had rusted into the cutterhead and required a good amount of penetrating oil and work with a drift pin and hammer to get them out. i cleaned up the rusty bed with wd-40 and 0000 steel wool, then waxed with butcher's. you might also check the infeed bed for coplanar alignment with the outfeed...i had to shim mine but works fine now. all in all, it is not the finest machine out there, but it does the job ok. i figure my grandfather used it for several decades...so can i. i made a dust collection hood under the cutterhead out of hardboard and a 4" hose fitting. good luck and congrats on the new (to you) tool.

dave

Keith Devore
11-30-2007, 10:49 AM
The jointer is in my garage.

Brian Weick
11-30-2007, 10:57 AM
Where is the jointer located?


Charles want's to take that off of your hands ~ I don't think he read the thread :confused:
Brian

Chuck Wintle
11-30-2007, 10:59 AM
Charles want's to take that off of your hands ~ I don't think he read the thread :confused:
Brian

Yes it helps to read the entire thread sometimes....:o

Keith Devore
11-30-2007, 11:11 AM
Haha, sorry about that. I thought that was a weird question ...

Dick Sylvan
11-30-2007, 11:52 AM
If it's not heavily rusted, WD-40 works pretty well. Let a generous coat sit for a couple of minutes, then rub it off with fine steel wool and a rag. If the rust is heavy, then try Naval Jelly.

Lee Schierer
11-30-2007, 12:10 PM
A scotchbrite pad and lots of WD40 will take off the rust without wearing out the table. You can even mount the scotchbrite on a vibratory sander (some people even use random orbit sanders) and speed up the process. It make a mess, but it is really fast.

Alignment and sharp knoves are the key to getting good results. I'm not familiar with that particular brand of jointer, but basically you wnat he surface ot he outfeed table exactly level with the highest point of the arc the blade make. The cutters all need to be ecactly even in height from one to the next and from side to side. The infeed table needs to be exactly parallel to the outfeed table left and right and length wise. The fence needs to be perpendicular to both tables. How all that occurs on your jointer will need to bedetermined.