Bench Dog 40-031 Under Table Dust Collection

[Jim McFarland]

I'm sure others have done this but I couldn't find an example of what I needed. This under table dust collection box is for the Bench Dog cast iron extension, Bench Dog 40-016 ProLift and PC 7518 router motor -- all attached to a right tilt Unisaw. I got the idea from Jim Becker's post of a similar box installed on his slider. Also thanks (I think :)) to Bruce Page for his recent "Dog is in the House" post which started me down this slope. I also found a nice design by Glenn Bradley who essentially built a router table cabinet under the extension. However, I actually use the floor space under this box when I slide my bandsaw next to the tablesaw. Search "bench cast iron extension" to see other posts including pro/cons regarding table saw router table extensions vs stand-alone tables. Saving floor space is the deciding factor for me so I'm selling my stand-alone table now that this project is finished.

The main design problem for the Unisaw is fitting the box around the blade tilt wheel. My low tech solution is just to make the box easy to remove when I need to tilt the table saw blade (I rarely tilt the blade from 90 degrees anyway).

Key construction/assembly points (or things I didn't think of initially):

Use 1/4X20 threaded rods (with Loc-Tite) into the CI extension and large knobs to make it easier to install/remove the box. Add 1/4X20 couplers on the end rods to continue to use the provided router fence hanger hooks.
Box dimensions are ~9" X 13.5" (~ fit to the CI extrusions under the plate insert) X 20" tall (includes space for 15 degree dust collection ramp and a small shelf on the bottom for insert rings, height adjuster, wrenches, extra collets, etc.). Box is attached using 22" long 3/4X2.5" runners.
Add a 4" dust collection fitting and a cord grommet with snap in fitting to make it easier to remove the router. Cut several 45 degree slots opposite the dust fitting to ensure sufficient dust collector air flow.

[Robert Goodwin]

I have thought about doing this after sitting through demos at woodworking shows and noticing how quiet and clean the display booths are.

[Jim McFarland]

I have thought about doing this after sitting through demos at woodworking shows and noticing how quiet and clean the display booths are.

I'm waiting for the finish to cure for a couple of days before trying. Having a similar setup on a stand alone table, my only expectation is it will keep me from standing ankle deep in chips:). I also think the air flow will keep the router motor a bit cooler during long sessions. I'll still have the problem of chips above the table and I'll continue to use a vacuum attached to fence (or ProGuard) to help with those. Depending on the type of routing I'm doing, I still expect to be covered in wood chips on occasion.

Edit: The PC7518 is loud so having it enclosed does reduce the noise level some (I did try that).

[Dave Novak]

I've thought a lot about building one of these, or buying one from woodpecker, but I've been concerned that it would be a hassle openning and closing the door to turn on the router or adjust the speed. It probably wouldn't be too hard to rig an exterior on/off switch, but I've never come up with an idea for the speed control.

[Bruce Page]

Thanks a lot Jim, my to-do list just got longer!
Is the whole assembly hanging from the 4 ¼-20 tapped holes? How did you seal the joint at the top? It looks like you ramped the floor to the dust port – very cool.

Did you have any trouble getting the lift plate level with the top? I haven’t used my Pro-Guard yet. Does it work as advertised?

Lotsa questions…sorry.

[Jim Becker]

Nice job, Jim!!! That looks like it will do the job!!

[Jim McFarland]

I was eager to try this out and the USL had a couple of days to cure so I gave it a try this evening with a 3/8" roundover on some scrap..

Robert/Bruce:
Very little dust/chips when using 4" DC for box coupled with vac attached to the ProGuard for the top -- I'm happy with the performance.

Dave:
I have added an auxiliary switch so I can turn on the router from outside the box (just visible in top left of 3rd photo). My hands are small enough that I can access the speed selector through the dust collection port (also not too difficult to just pull the router&lift out). The Pro-Lift does have a column lock which I can't access easily. I'm not sure I'll need to use this all the time but if so, you're absolutely right, I'll need to add an access door to operate the column lock (or pull the router out). I'll use it a while before going to the trouble of adding a door (Bruce, you might want to include one in your design).

Bruce:

Glad to return the favor of adding to your to-do list as your post started me on this quest!
Yes, I applied Loc-Tite and installed threaded rods/studs into the 4 holes in the CI bottom. I then attach the box with large 3 wing knobs.
~9"X13 1/2" box size fits the extrusions/ribs around the plate opening. Not a perfect seal but close enough for me.
Yes, I added a 15 degree ramp inside the box to encourage the dust toward the port.
I had all sorts of trouble leveling the plate. I finally compromised and got right to left pretty much spot on but plate still a bit proud at back left (hold down screw corner).Jim:
Thanks!

[Mathew Nedeljko]

Jim, I have the same cast iron extension mounted on my Dewalt hybrid saw. After using it a few times I realized I will need to build a box around the router to capture the dust from underneath the wing. So seeing what you have done is very helpful.

One question, can you provide some more detail of how you attached the box to the wing? I see that in the front you were able to thread in the rods to the already provided holes for the fence hooks, but how did you attach the other side? I've checked my wing and there doesn't appear to be any threaded holes I could use on the underside of the wing closest to the saw.

Did you have to drill and tap new holes?

[Jim McFarland]

...
I've checked my wing and there doesn't appear to be any threaded holes I could use on the underside of the wing closest to the saw.

Did you have to drill and tap new holes?

Mathew, no -- mine did have 2 holes drilled/tapped at the TS edge of the wing (~3" from front/back and 2" from TS edge) . I purchased recently so could be these are only on the newer versions of the extension.

[Bruce Page]

Mathew, no -- mine did have 2 holes drilled/tapped at the TS edge of the wing (~3" from front/back and 2" from TS edge) . I purchased recently so could be these are only on the newer versions of the extension.

As does mine.

Thanks for the info Jim.

[Chuck Burns]

Edit: The PC7518 is loud so having it enclosed does reduce the noise level some (I did try that).

Jim,
For what it's worth I just acquired a Milwaukee 5625 and am amazed at how quiet it is.

My PRL is supposed to be delivered Monday and I plan on making a similar box under the table to collect cuttings. If it makes it even quieter thats all the better.

[Phil Thien]

Nice downdraft box, may I ask where you purchased the 4" dust port? I found some at Peachtree but I like the ones you're using, they're more like the 2-1/2" ports I'm accustomed to.

[Bruce Page]

Phil, Woodcraft sells them.

[Jim McFarland]

Phil, Woodcraft sells them.

As Bruce said -- I bought mine at the local Woodcraft. I've scraped off the label on mine but believe WC item is #144654 (no associated photo on WC site so can't be absolutely sure -- price was $4.99 though so think this is it).

[Jim McFarland]

<snip>
The main design problem for the Unisaw is fitting the box around the blade tilt wheel. My low tech solution is just to make the box easy to remove when I need to tilt the table saw blade (I rarely tilt the blade from 90 degrees anyway). <snip>



Sorry to drag this one up again but wanted to update the biggest problem I've had with this dust collection box -- having to remove the box to adjust TS blade tilt (1st photo in original post illustrates the problem -- handle hits the box). I finally got tired of this "solution" this week and replaced the 2.75" revolving handle on the tilt wheel with a 1.5" version. This allows me to adjust the blade tilt w/o removing the box.

Handle was pressed into the wheel on my saw (circa 1999) so I knocked it out and tapped it to accept 2" 3/8" X 16 carriage bolt. I ground the square shoulders off the bolt and made the plastic "handle" using a Jr Gent II pen tube & black acrylic blank. I used red Loc-tite on the bolt to hopefully hold it securely in the wheel (time will tell!). Not very pretty but it seems to work.

[Noah Katz]

I'm going to try one of these

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005140/30464/Router-Table-Dust-Collection-Accessory.aspx?refcode=05INFROO

[Jerome Hanby]

I just bought one of those. Going to add it to my Freud router/table combo. Nothing earth shaking about how it works, but cheap enough to no be worth making your own (IMHO).


I'm going to try one of these

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005140/30464/Router-Table-Dust-Collection-Accessory.aspx?refcode=05INFROO