lumber rack help

[Jack Clay]

I am going to try to put a lumber rack up this week end. I am looking for advice on vertical or horizontal. I have an area about 8 feet tall by 12 feet long. Please let me know you ideas and show me your wood rack planes and or pictures. Thank you for your help.

[Rick Levine]

This is what I did for my lumber:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a75/ricklevine/Rack.jpg

I have even more wood on it now and is really holding quite well. During construction I added 2x12's between the studs because I wasn't sure what type of rack I would buy/make but if you lag the brackets to the studs you should be ok. If you buy them just follow the insructions. This is where I bought my set:

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10929

[Troy Cleckler]

I also had something similar to Rick's but a little less fancy I made it by putting 2x4's on the vertical and I cut pieces of ply to attach on either side with a 1x4 in between for the shelves. I worked good for a while until I had accumulated so much that every time I looked for a paticular piece of lumber I had to unstack it and it got to be a mess. So I thought I'd try something different. Last weekend I made a rolling cart that held all my lumber and still has room for plenty more. Just a little heavy to move around but when I get it in the right place I don't have to move it. Anyway here are some pics, I've since taken down the one mounted on the wall and just have the roll around.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u154/tcleckler/WoodProjects002.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u154/tcleckler/Woodshop001.jpg

If you are interested in the roll around one I'll get the magazine and issue number for you, not sure which one it's in right off hand.

[Vic Damone]

I'm using the same heavy cantilevers as Rick Levine. I installed 4" X 6" studs for the increased load of a loft as well as the rack. Then used 3/8" X 5" lag screws and washers just above each 18" cantilever.

Just a week after the install we had a 5.6 quake which had no effect on the fully loaded rack. That's some beefy steal.

Vic

[Wayne Gauthier]

http://www.woodworking.org/photo/albums/userpics/14816/thumb_shop_redo_004.jpg (http://www.woodworking.org/photo/displayimage.php?album=19944&pos=30)

Here is what I did, 2 X 4's lag screwed to the studs, and 1/2" black iron pipe. Drilled hole to hold the pipe thru the 2 X 4's and into the studs.

[Eric Garner]

Here's one I put together that stores sheet goods and lumber. It has casters so that it can roll around the shop. I have the complete plans in sketchup. Let me know if you need them, and I'll email them to you.

Eric

[Dennis McFern]

Hi Jack,

here is a picture of mine. It is attached to the ceiling joists and secured to the cement floor. It features adjustable shelves and an area for storing sheet goods. Very pleased with it. Design came from a wood magazine article.

[Jack Clay]

Dennis,
I have the same plane and I am leaning towards that design. I am back and forth between using the 2x4’s and 2x6’s. I want to stand it up between the 6x6’s in my pole barn. If you did it over would you change anything?

[Dennis McFern]

Hi Jack,

If this was a free-standing structure, I would probably go with 2 X 6. But the fact that I built it against an existing wall, I figured it would be plenty strong. I have had this rack for 2 years now and it is loaded with lumber at this moment. I have not noticed any arching in the 2 X 4 and the shelves are still level.
I like the fact that each vertical piece of the structure is set every 2 feet. This gives me a quick 'estimate' of the length of the lumber pieces I have on the rack at a glance.

[Jack Clay]

Dennis thanks for the information. I am going to glue and shoot sheets of plywood to the back to help with movement. I see you went with 24 inch I was wondering if you went with the 24 inches or 16 on center. If there is no issue with the board support I like the idea about being able to get an idea about board length at a glance.

[Todd Crow]

Here is my lumber rack. It is freestanding, because I had to be able to move it when the military chose for me to move. I made it out of 2x4s, but would probably increase that to 2x6's on the uprights. I had to add a post at the outer corners to help support the weight, the shelves sagged. With 2x6 uprights I think it would have done better.

I currently must have over 500 bdft of Oak, and 200 bdft of poplar on it, and it is holding up well.

http://www.crowsnest.us/images/left_wood_shelf.jpg

http://www.crowsnest.us/images/DCP_0796.jpg

[Steve Kohn]

Dennis,
I have the same plane and I am leaning towards that design. I am back and forth between using the 2x4’s and 2x6’s. I want to stand it up between the 6x6’s in my pole barn. If you did it over would you change anything?



I also built this rack. My only issue is the length of the shelves. As shown on the plan they are too short. If I were to rebuild this I would add at least 6 inches to the length of each.

[Andrew Schlosser]

I have the complete plans in sketchup. Let me know if you need them, and I'll email them to you.

Eric

Why not just share the model in the 3D Warehouse? File -> Export -> 3D Warehouse, IIRC.

[Rick Moyer]

I built the same one Dennis did from the magazine plans. I really like the sheet goods area as you can access any sheet easily. The only downside I have is my ceiling is only 7 ft. and I can only get two or three reasonable shelves. I made mine 12 ft. long. Only wish I could have gone higher.
btw, you could park a truck on the shelving I think, It is very sturdy!

[Keith Beck]

Sorry to get off topic, but I'd like to get some info on your cyclone, Troy. I'm guessing that's a homemade creation? Did you use the Wood plans to build it.

Inquiring minds want to know...

Keith

[glenn bradley]

Here's mine between lumber runs. Parts are available through Lee Valley or Lowe's. A nice thing about them being locally available is I can lengthen them as required.

94922

I cleared some space for a trip to the lumber yard and put the overflow in these.

94923

The plywood thingys can be quickly made and screwed to joists to hold lumber till your current project eats enough material to make room on the regular rack. You can then pull them down and store them flat or leave them till you know where you will use them next. Folks with enough room for lumber wouldn't need the "surge" approach my shop calls for. I'm always trying to consolidate and eliminate those items not used to make more room for material storage.

[John Pennisi]

Hey Rick did you choose the 12" or 18" brackets? I like the system; it seem like it holds a lot of weight. Thanks for posting.

[Dewey Torres]

Pic 1
Lumber rack made from regular heavy duty shelving (BORG)

Pic 2
Sheet stock storage from woodmag plan

Pic 3
Whatever you do, try to stay away from this option:rolleyes:

[Leo Graywacz]

http://www.crowsnest.us/images/left_wood_shelf.jpg



My design is very similar to yours. Just on a larger scale.

http://fototime.com/1744226E8FA43F5/orig.jpg

http://fototime.com/18FB356ADFF35F1/standard.jpg

[Dewey Torres]

[quote=Leo Graywacz;975822]My design is very similar to yours. Just on a larger scale./quote]

Good gosh Leo... what do you have for a shop? Warehouse??? WOW

[Leo Graywacz]

[quote=Leo Graywacz;975822]My design is very similar to yours. Just on a larger scale./quote]

Good gosh Leo... what do you have for a shop? Warehouse??? WOW


Take a look (http://www.woodweb.com/galleries/shop/posts/225.html).

[Rick Moyer]

Hey Rick did you choose the 12" or 18" brackets? I like the system; it seem like it holds a lot of weight. Thanks for posting.

I don't remember but I think they are about 14" or so. I think 18" would be better as you could lay two rough-cut 8"-10" wide pieces side-by-side.
The rack is very sturdy.

[Alan Schaffter]

I went a different route.

I initially started with this, but didn't like the idea of a large amount of wood up high, plus how would I load and unload it, how would I inspect both sides of individual boards and remove them if they were at the bottom of a stack?

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/Woodrack-5.JPG

So before even loading that rack, I removed it from the wall and went to this. I have an 8' ceiling that rises to 10'. This rack, while taking up floor space, holds a lot more wood. The wood is easier to stack, and with the boards stacked, edge to the wall, I can easily inspect both sides of a board before selecting it. There are no weight restrictions or danger of the rack being torn off the wall. It is best if the bottom end of the board is square and I did add safety chains:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P9240002.JPG

[Eric DeSilva]

Wow. I'm going to have to give y'all some lessons in how to overengineer things. Here's what I used:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/product/categoryInfo.web?options.parentCategoryKey=123&index=2&catSearchParams.categoryKey=1567&REQ_SUB_CAT=Cantilever+Rack

Sadly, no pic of the shop right now. Two six foot long, seven foot tall sections. I think you could actually park a truck on top of it.

OK, maybe its a *little* overboard.

[Joe Von Kaenel]

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/27257-01-200.jpg

Jack,

It depends on how elaborate you want to go. I have this "Triton Lumber Rack" available at Rockler and other sites for around $75. I added 2" X10" Planks for shelves. You could actually use 2" X 12" planks. It took about 20 minutes to set up the unit.

Joe

[Herbert Wallace]

I CAN'T STAND IT !!!!
How do you guys get anything done in those neat organized shops?
Or are they for show only? Maybe one day I'll get around to organizing mine. I have a lumber storage rack, but I can't get to it.

[Dewey Torres]

I CAN'T STAND IT !!!!
How do you guys get anything done in those neat organized shops?
Or are they for show only? Maybe one day I'll get around to organizing mine. I have a lumber storage rack, but I can't get to it.

STEP 1)

Remove toilet form middle of shop

That should get you started:D

[Alan Schaffter]

Wow. I'm going to have to give y'all some lessons in how to overengineer things. Here's what I used:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/product/categoryInfo.web?options.parentCategoryKey=123&index=2&catSearchParams.categoryKey=1567&REQ_SUB_CAT=Cantilever+Rack

Sadly, no pic of the shop right now. Two six foot long, seven foot tall sections. I think you could actually park a truck on top of it.

OK, maybe its a *little* overboard.

Maybe a little overboard in price too? :D:D:D

[Eric Porter]

Like Wayne, I opted for 2x4 and black pipe construction for strength, simplicity, and low cost.

As you can see in the pick I lag bolted three 2x4s horizontally to the studs, then notched 2x4s to hang vertically on the horizontal members. I drilled holes at a 5 degree upward angle to ensure that even full loaded they would hold my wood. I then covered the black pipe with PVC to prevent staining my wood. This is a very strong setup. Total cost was probably around $45 including the fasteners. It is work to get the wood off, but that is far outweighed by the convenience of having it up and out of the way. I store my wood in the garage until I bring it down to my basement shop for a project.

Eric

[Rod Sheridan]

This is my wood storage rack, 1/2" threaded rod hung from floor joists with unistrut cross members.

Regards, Rod.

[Eric DeSilva]

Maybe a little overboard in price too? :D:D:D

Maybe, but its pretty good value for the $. I'm not sure that is the exact one I bought--I bought it locally and had it delivered for $600. At a minimum, it was good poundage for the $--the pieces showed up on a pallet and it weighs a ton. It is really, really solidly built, and the cantilever arms are a lot longer than the lightweight versions I've seen. Since its 12' long, its like two racks, realistically, and its also 7' tall, so there is a lot of storage. Plus, I definitely have peace of mind that it will never fall over or rip out my wall...

I suppose it is a lot of rack for a hobbyist. Then again, a lot of people would argue a 3HP shaper is a lot of machine for a hobbyist too.