waterlox dry spots

[Brooks Kieffer]

I finished a walnut table with Waterlox as Jim recomended. Turned out great for a novice. However, there were several small areas that never seemed to take the finish - always looked dry. Should I coat with something else first or just keep applying? About 8 coats already.
Also, what is good for filling large holes that will not stand out too much as the walnut lightens and will take the finish.
Am I being too whimpy by useing the Waterlox and not shellac or something else?
A lot of questions, but I really appreciate the expert advice I find here.
Thanks!

[Steve Schoene]

Can you describe these dry spots in detail?
Does it look like the Waterlox was pulling away aroung them or did it appear to be just all soaking in?
How were you applying the Waterlox, and which Waterlox is it--Original/Sealer, Satin or Gloss.
Waterlox should be a good finish for a project such as you've described, and after 8 coats there shouldn't be spots.

[Brooks Kieffer]

I am using Waterlox Original. The spots look like the Waterlox is just soaking in. No shine at all on the surface. Two or three spots like this, about 2"x3". Thanks for your input.

[Rob Amadon]

Original sealer or original satin? It makes a difference, they are quite different products. Also, as Steve asked, how are you applying it? Brush? Wipe on? Full strength or thinned?

Rob

[Brooks Kieffer]

I am using Original Sealer Finish, full strength. Applied by brush. The product seems fine. I think it is in the wood. It was air dried. There had been some worms in it so I don't know how it was stored. It almost seems like dry rot or something similar.

[Rob Amadon]

It does sound like the wood may be the problem. Is it soft in those spots or look different than the surrounding wood?

Rob

[James Kuhn]

Happens a lot with walnut. You need to close those pores by sanding thinned Waterlox in with wet/dry sandpaper. Build up a slurry,push it in, but avoid the wiping phase afterwords.

http://books.google.com/books?id=uP-oekU4q7UC&pg=PA121&lpg=PA121&dq=waterlox+slurry&source=web&ots=L4-tzg-pvr&sig=89hcFTZPClfalRL9y9a_jtNk8Gc

[Steve Schoene]

Frankly, I don't understand the book extract. Waterlox isn't an oil finish in any way and isn't comparable to Danish oil. There shouldn't be a final wiping stage. It is usually applied by wiping it on in a thin coat with a cloth but this is not at all like you would apply a Danish oil, where it is applied liberally, allowed to penetrate and then vigorously wiped off. Waterlox should be applied thinnly and allowed to cure since it is a varnish, pure and simple, and, particularly the Original/Sealer, has already been substantially thinned. It will cure to a hard varnish film. Thinning it accomplishes nothing in particular except making the film even thinner. One coat thinned 1:1 will be applying roughly 90% thinner and 10% varnish, or essentially nothing of much benefit as a finish.

The problem in this case seems to be excessive penetration probably related to some punky spots in the wood. I wouldn't thin a thin varnish further to try to cure it. I would focus on those dry spots in particular and apply a more ample portion of the varnish, basically until it stops soaking up more. Do this is a warm, dry location so that the solvent flashes off relatively quickly and the cure is accelerated. The wood itself should be warmed through as well. The cure will be twice as fast at 75° than at 60°.

[Brooks Kieffer]

Thanks for the input guys. I did try to "flood" the area wilh Waterlox every time I coated the entire pieceand it all soaked in. As someone said, I think the wood is punky there. Is there a thicker form of sealer that I could put on those spots and then finish applying the Waterlox?
Also, does anyone have any good ideas about a filler that I could use on some large holes? One that would also take the Waterlox finish? And not stand out toooo much.
Thanks

[terry hansen]

Perhaps a dewaxed shellac spot treatment to seal those areas.
For filler - I've used 5 minute epoxy, colored with a bit of transtint liquid ( 2 or 3 drops per quarter size blob) to fill knots and other defects in oak & cherry. Let dry to almost solid and shave off excess with microplane, then sand. The waterlox seals over it with no problem.

[Brooks Kieffer]

I'll try the shellac on a piece of scrap and see. I have used the epoxy before with some very fine sawdust fron the wood and that worked good. This is a rather large hole and it would take several of those tubes. I guess I can buy it in larger quantities. Do they make 10 minute epoxy?