Help with Excalibur Overarm Guard

[Sean Troy]

I seem to be 9 inches short with regards to the minimum lateral distance needed to mount this to my saw. Would I be better off trimming the main pipe to an exceptable length or build a stand to mount it to? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sean

[Sean Troy]

Anyone? Anyone at all?

[Rob Blaustein]

I ran into the same problem and decided to add a small extension to the right. I just wasn't willing to hack up the Excalibur in case I wanted to have longer fence rails in the future. So that would be my advice. It didn't take all that long. I used a torsion box design and used some 3/4" poplar with a melamine top. I left the bottom open to provide access to the bolts used to attach the table to the right wing of the saw and to attach the guard to the table. The guard is heavy and so I made the table pretty sturdy--if you look closely you'll see I added additional strips of wood around the perimeter after trimming the top with a flush cutting bit. I could screw on a bottom too, but the thing doesn't budge at all as is. Good luck with your install.
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[Sean Troy]

I ran into the same problem and decided to add a small extension to the right. I just wasn't willing to hack up the Excalibur in case I wanted to have longer fence rails in the future. So that would be my advice. It didn't take all that long. I used a torsion box design and used some 3/4" poplar with a melamine top. I left the bottom open to provide access to the bolts used to attach the table to the right wing of the saw and to attach the guard to the table. The guard is heavy and so I made the table pretty sturdy--if you look closely you'll see I added additional strips of wood around the perimeter after trimming the top with a flush cutting bit. I could screw on a bottom too, but the thing doesn't budge at all as is. Good luck with your install.
7601976026

How did you attach the new table to the right wing? Drill and tap? Thanks, Sean

[Rob Blaustein]

How did you attach the new table to the right wing? Drill and tap? Thanks, Sean

Sean,
No, I just drilled a hole and used 1/4-20 bolts with washers, lock washers, and nuts. I have two between the wing and table, and two on each rail that also supports the table. It was a while ago, but I think I clamped the table to the right wing, tapped with a mallet to get everything lined up, tightened down clamp, and drilled using a drill with a right angle chuck (the torsion box design doesn't leave much room for fitting a drill). But it's possible that I just predrilled holes on the table, clamped, and somehow marked the holes on the cast iron wing, took off table and then drilled. That sounds easier, but I can't really recall.

If this helps, my table extends 18". I just measured the setup and it looks like you need at least approx 34" of table, measuring from the blade and assuming the guard is around the middle of the blade. I think the manual (which is pretty bad) said I needed more than that, but I couldn't figure out why.

One tip if you build something similar to mine and use pocket holes/screws to attach the top--if you do 'wrap' it with an apron on all sides like I did to add some thickness/strength, it will hide those screws so first mark their locations on the top so you don't end up drilling through them by accident. DAMHIKT.
--Rob

[Sean Troy]

Thanks for the help. I didn't really want to cut the pipe either. It looks like I got my project for tommorrow.

[Rob Blaustein]

Hope it goes well. One thing I might do differently is mount it a bit more towards the rear of the saw. The rear plastic window of the guard portion is a bit too close to my splitter pawls.

[Rod Sheridan]

I added a side table that's aproximately 16 inches wide to my General 650, and cut the inner and outer tube on the Excalibur.

My saw has a 32 inch rip capacity.

The mobile base I made from 2 X 2 X 3/16 angle extends far enough to support the bottom of the steel tube of the Excalibur, so I don't need the diagonal steel braces that would normally go back to the saw base. This allows for a storage cabinet under the extension table to hold blades, tenon jig etc.

Hope this helps...........Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I forgot to include a photo of the arm itself.....Rod.

[Sean Troy]

Hope it goes well. One thing I might do differently is mount it a bit more towards the rear of the saw. The rear plastic window of the guard portion is a bit too close to my splitter pawls.

Hey Rob, can you tell me why you didn't use the stock splitter pawls? Seeing that we both use the Excalibur, if there is a reason to upgrade, I figured you would be able to tell me which after market one works. Thanks, sean

[Dave Falkenstein]

Hey Rob, can you tell me why you didn't use the stock splitter pawls? Seeing that we both use the Excalibur, if there is a reason to upgrade, I figured you would be able to tell me which after market one works. Thanks, sean

I'm not Rob, but... I use the Excalibur guard and a Biesemeyer removeable splitter. On my Jet cabinet saw, when the stock guard is removed, the splitter and pawls go with it. The stock guard won't work with the Excalibur - the stock guard gets in the way of the Excalibur. I mounted the Excalibur a bit toward the rear of the saw so that the guard will clear the splitter pawls. They work well together. A bit pricey, but worth the expense, IMHO.

[Rob Blaustein]

Dave answered pretty much as I would have. I assume when you say pawls you mean the splitter/pawls combo. AFter reading several posts about splitters I decided on the Bies. As Dave says, it is a bit pricey, but it is extremely easy to remove and put back and it is VERY solid. I think it has actually gotten even more expensive in the past few yrs (I think I paid $125?). Some people remove the pawls--the feeling is that the splitter part is really the business end and provides the real safety factor. Note Dave's remark about placement of the guard relative to the splitter and my lament that I should have paid more attention to that--should you opt for that combo as well.
--Rob

[Sean Troy]

Dave answered pretty much as I would have. I assume when you say pawls you mean the splitter/pawls combo. AFter reading several posts about splitters I decided on the Bies. As Dave says, it is a bit pricey, but it is extremely easy to remove and put back and it is VERY solid. I think it has actually gotten even more expensive in the past few yrs (I think I paid $125?). Some people remove the pawls--the feeling is that the splitter part is really the business end and provides the real safety factor. Note Dave's remark about placement of the guard relative to the splitter and my lament that I should have paid more attention to that--should you opt for that combo as well.
--Rob

Thanks Dave and Rob. I'm going to look into the better splitter. who carries the Biesmyer splitter at the best price. I'll do a search also. I hope to have the excalibur mounted tommorrow morning. I'll post a pic. Thanks again, Sean

[Rob Will]

Thanks Dave and Rob. I'm going to look into the better splitter. who carries the Biesmyer splitter at the best price. I'll do a search also. I hope to have the excalibur mounted tommorrow morning. I'll post a pic. Thanks again, Sean

I have a Beisemeyer splitter and an Excalibur guard -- not yet installed.

Rob

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, the splitter I use with mine is the Merlin splitter......Rod.

[Sean Troy]

Hi, the splitter I use with mine is the Merlin splitter......Rod.


Almost all the splitters I see say they will fit either the Delta Unisaw or Jet Exacta. How do I know if it will fit my Griz 1023?

[Rob Blaustein]

The Bies splitter will work with your Grizz. The correct model number is 78-431. Looks like it's around $40 more than a few yrs ago. I bought both the splitter and guard at Amazon. One thing to be aware of is that it will only work with normal kerf blades and not thin kerf blades but I don't use the latter so it's not an issue.

When ripping narrow pieces the Excalibur gets in the way--I tend to pivot it away, remove the Bies splitter, and put in my my zero clearance that has the microjig splitter that I use in conjunction with a Grripper. The whole thing takes a minute or so. Boy, it's amazing how many gizmos one can accumulate...

[Sean Troy]

The Bies splitter will work with your Grizz. The correct model number is 78-431. Looks like it's around $40 more than a few yrs ago. I bought both the splitter and guard at Amazon. One thing to be aware of is that it will only work with normal kerf blades and not thin kerf blades but I don't use the latter so it's not an issue.

When ripping narrow pieces the Excalibur gets in the way--I tend to pivot it away, remove the Bies splitter, and put in my my zero clearance that has the microjig splitter that I use in conjunction with a Grripper. The whole thing takes a minute or so. Boy, it's amazing how many gizmos one can accumulate...

Looks as though I'll need the MJ Splitter also as I love my WWII thin kerf blade. Man ! Does it ever stop? LOL

[Glen Blanchard]

Looks as though I'll need the MJ Splitter also as I love my WWII thin kerf blade. Man ! Does it ever stop? LOL

Sean - Don't miss this opportunity. Rather than invest in the Bies splitter and the MJ splitter, just buy a new table saw that has a riving knife.

Problem solved. ;) :eek: :)

[Sean Troy]

Sean - Don't miss this opportunity. Rather than invest in the Bies splitter and the MJ splitter, just buy a new table saw that has a riving knife.

Problem solved. ;) :eek: :)

Yeah, I could, but then I would have to buy a bed for the shop cause thats where I'd be living. :D