jointer or planer

[simo sentissi]

Hello there

I usually work on small pieces in my garage but I am getting frustrated anymore at how long it takes me to straighten some of the lumber I work on.
now I am getting ready to get either a jointer/planer or a thickness planner and I am definitely confused on what to get first since I have the budget for only one.
I am sure this question get asked many times but I could not find an answer while searching in the forum.
do you guys know of any cheap jointer/planer or Thickness planner deals ? -after doing some research at the local HD and Lowes I found that ryobi has a $199 planner that seems to have ok features for the money and have ok reviews but I haven't looked really for any jointer deals.

Thanks in advance

[George Carion]

You really need both to cut down on the time it takes to make a board flat at a specific thickness. If I could have only one it would probably be a jointer. You can't make flat boards with a thickness planer. Any cupping or bends in the boards will still be there after you run them through the planer. A jointer will give you 2 good sides to use as a reference for removing material on the opposing sides.

Try the used market for these tools. You could probably get a decent 6" jointer used for near $200.

[Jim Becker]

Jointers and thickness planers are different tools. The former is specifically for getting material flat and straight. The latter's primary job is...thicknessing that flat and straight lumber. That said, many folks will opt for the planer first and use other techniques for flattening and straightening lumber, such as a router table with a split fence for edge jointing and a sled for the thickness planer for (minor) flattening.

[Thom Sturgill]

I opted for the jointer first, but only because I knew what I wanted and needed to do some research before buying the planer:D. I have had several Ryobi tools and find them to generally be well made but not without gotchas. The Ryobi planer has a definite snipe problem best solved by cutting a couple of inches off both ends of every piece you run through it. That eats up the savings fairly quickly. My Ridgid is almost as bad, though the reviews said the carriage lock would practically eliminate them....:(

Such is life.

[Gary Keedwell]

If you can only get one...it would definetly have to be the planer. You can use a sled to shim under the high spots on the first side and then turn it over for the opposite parallel cut.
You will never get both faces of a board parallel on a jointer. Period.

Gary

[Jim Becker]

If you can only get one...it would definetly have to be the planer.

Agreed as without a planer, your use of a jointer is pretty much limited to edges...

[Richard Dragin]

To decide which to buy first flip a coin. Once you have one you will want the other. Every time this subjest comes up there is about a 50/50 split on which to buy first. Then there will be the folks telling you how to use a table saw, planer or router in place of a jointer. Let's not forget the hand tool guys who will tell you not to get either. There is no good way to thickness a board and get a parallel face without the planer so my vote goes to get that first.

You should post your location (I don't know why people ask about deals without disclosing their location) as someone might be able to point out something in your area. Used jointers seem to be more available than used planers and used is an excellent way to go.

[simo sentissi]

I am located in Bozeman, MT

so maybe I can stay with a hand planer and get a thickness planner as an addition, or get the jointer and hope I can always pick the right thickness at buying lumber....

humm seems like I should do some more research and thinking

Thanks again

[simo sentissi]

Hello again

I was wondering what is the difference between this jointer/planer and a normal jointer ? I seriously cannot see any difference and they call it a planner as well.....
just curious .... while I am online looking

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100092374&N=10000003+501489+90204&marketID=204&locStoreNum=3104

RIDGID 6 1/8 In. Stationary Joiner/planer

[Richard Dragin]

That's a jointer, the "planer" was added by the advertising weenies to lure newbies such as yourself. . While technically correct I suppose the common term for that machine is "jointer". That aside, the Rigid jointer is a well reviewed tool at a good price.

[Don Bullock]

I wrestled with the same question this year. Richard has come up with the best solution:


To decide which to buy first flip a coin. Once you have one you will want the other. Every time this subjest comes up there is about a 50/50 split on which to buy first. Then there will be the folks telling you how to use a table saw, planer or router in place of a jointer. Let's not forget the hand tool guys who will tell you not to get either. There is no good way to thickness a board and get a parallel face without the planer so my vote goes to get that first....

While the jointer was a tool that bought first, it wasn't until I got the "thickness" planer that I realized that I bought them backwards. I had been jointing wood on my table saw for many years, While it wasn't the best way to joint the boards it worked. As Richard says, there is no other way, other than a planer, to get the thickness of a board even accross the board and end to end. It also is great for creating boards that are a specific thickness. A jointer can't do either one.

[Danny Thompson]

Good question. To reiterate, with only a jointer, you get flat sides that aren't parallel, so your wood comes out tapered. With only a planer, you get a uniform thickness for the length and width of the board, and the board will be flat from side to side at any given point, but it won't be any more flat along its length after planing than the bottom side is flat before planing.

You can overcome the planer shortcoming by flattening one side of the board by hand, but my guess is you haven't yet masted that technique. The other option is to use a planer sled.

I bought a planer first. But I was probably equally influenced by the fact that I found a respectable planer on Craigslist for a reasonable price.

I'm not a big fan of Ryobi and, in general, think its better to buy a higher quality used tool than a lower quality new one. So, I picked up the used DeWalt 734 on Craigslist for $250.

Truth be told, I haven't yet built a planer sled. I keep thinking I am going to find a deal on a jointer any day now, so I keep putting it off. My point is, consider the liklihood that you will actually follow through on the sled before thinking you aren't going to have to buy both in fairly rapid succession.

Good luck

[Matt Bickford]

If you can only buy one, the planer is the way to go. You can get by with the many solutions mentioned above. Owning a planer is also a fantastic investment because buying your wood in the rough is cheaper than buying it surfaced. I believe that mine has paid for itself time and time again.

[Rob Will]

In Europe, our "jointer" is called a "planer" ..........
and our "planer" is called a "thicknesser".
I think their names are more accurate but we will stick with the US names.

If there is any chance you will dry some of your own lumber or otherwise have access to wide boards, save your pennies and find a BIG used jointer (old iron never goes down in value).The absolute best scenario is a jointer just as wide as your planer. Finding a planer should be easy.

Rob

[John Bailey]

I bought a jointer first, then didn't use it, so, then, sold it. I now have a planer that I'm rebuilding and will use a combination of a circular saw, and router for edge jointing and a sled for face jointing on the planer. With todays saw blades and guided systems, I don't see any advantage of having a jointer for edge jointing. In most cases one swipe with a saw or router will have the job done, and done as well as the jointer. Of course, a jointer would be much more useful for face jointing. I don't think the typical 6" model that most start with is that useful either. So, you'll have to spend more than I care to spend on a good sized jointer. I'm also of the belief that by the time you send the board through a jointer enough times to get it flat, you may be able to rig up your sled and get the job done as fast on the planer. Of course, I'm very slow, and like being that way.

What ever you decide, make sure you let us know and we like pictures.

John

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I am unsure Royobi will leave you feeling like you got your money's worth.

[simo sentissi]

Thanks guys !!!

I will start researching planers now :)
can somebody tell me where I can find a goo plan for a planer sled then ? looked all around and no pictures.....

[Tom Kelley]

Simo,
Wood Magazine, issue 173 November 2006 has reviews of planers. The Ryobi AP1301 got a "Top Value" award. It does a good job but has a lot of snipe. The Rigid (sold at Home Depot) also got a "Top Value" award. I am glad you asked the question because I am in the same boat. I guess I will get a planer first. I have my eye on the DeWalt DW735.
Tom

[Tom Kelley]

Simo,
After reading some older posts I have changed my mind about the DeWalt 735. It seems that they have issues concerning cheap gears and poor blades. Now what? Does anybody make a decent planer that is affordable?

[simo sentissi]

Tom

Let me know what you go with, I am reading about the Ryobi right now.

Cheers !

[Robert Goodwin]

Thanks guys !!!

I will start researching planers now :)
can somebody tell me where I can find a goo plan for a planer sled then ? looked all around and no pictures.....

The latest FWW tools and shops shows a different idean on a planer sled by having a grid of screws in the sled and you tighten/loosen the screws to support the cup/twist. Just don't plane too much :eek:

[Jerry Olexa]

I'm very happy with my Delta 13" planer. You really need both to properly mill stock.

[Gary Keedwell]

I'm very happy with my Delta 13" planer. You really need both to properly mill stock.
I agree Jerry....I have seen this dilemma with newbies in the past. Sometimes the money isn't there when your young and just starting a new hobby, so you have to get one at a time. It's been so long but if I remember correctly...I bought the planer first. Or did I get the jointer...Hmmmmmmm:D
Gary

[Jerry Olexa]

Gary, I bought the planer first but within a year I had a jointer. You're right!

[Joe Mioux]

Thanks guys !!!

I will start researching planers now :)
can somebody tell me where I can find a goo plan for a planer sled then ? looked all around and no pictures.....

all you need is a good sheet of plywood that is narrower than your planer.

place a stop on the front end, use some cheap wood shims and you're good to go.

if necessary add a little double stick tape. (personally this part is too time consuming.

All you need to do is to keep the board being planed from rocking. The pressure from the feed rollers will hold the board tight to the sled.

joe

[glenn bradley]

If you can only go for one right now, get the planer and do this: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=58735 Its been tiding me over for the last year.

[Bart Leetch]

I opted for the jointer first, but only because I knew what I wanted and needed to do some research before buying the planer:D. I have had several Ryobi tools and find them to generally be well made but not without gotchas. The Ryobi planer has a definite snipe problem best solved by cutting a couple of inches off both ends of every piece you run through it. That eats up the savings fairly quickly. My Ridgid is almost as bad, though the reviews said the carriage lock would practically eliminate them....:(

Such is life.

On most portable planers the outboard ends of the in-feed & out-feed tables should be just slightly higher than the main table under the planer head.

When I found this out I tried it on my old Grizzly portable planer & have had no or almost no snipe for several years now.

Each planer will be different & will have to be adjusted accordingly.

[Danny Thompson]

The current issue of Fine Woodworking has a tooltest and review of benchtop planers. There is also an interesting planer sled reviewed in a previous issue. Just search for planer sled on their website.

[Stan Smith]

Agreed as without a planer, your use of a jointer is pretty much limited to edges...

Unless you get an 8" or more jointer.

[Bart Leetch]

It doesn't make any difference if its a 24" wide jointer you still will have problems getting a piece of material exactly the same thickness across the width & all along the length of the material.

The way I do it is rip 1 edge joint that edge, joint one side with the jointed edge against the jointer fence, rip the other edge 1/32" wider than finished the joint that edge & send the board through the planer for the other side to be coplanar with the jointed side. If I'm going to rip the material down further I'll each piece rip 1/32" wider then finished then joint the edge to finished dimensions. The continue on jointing & ripping & jointing.

[Jim Becker]

Unless you get an 8" or more jointer.


Bart has it...face jointing flat is only useful if you have a planer available to bring the lumber to the same thickness afterward. You cannot do that on a jointer alone. Width is not relevant to this "feature" of jointers.

[Brandon Shew]

If you can only get one...it would definetly have to be the planer. You can use a sled to shim under the high spots on the first side and then turn it over for the opposite parallel cut.
You will never get both faces of a board parallel on a jointer. Period.

Gary

A good point, but a planer will never really straighten a board which is what the OP was looking for (or so I gathered from his post).

[Joe Mioux]

A good point, but a planer will never really straighten a board which is what the OP was looking for (or so I gathered from his post).

i beg to differ.

wood isn't perfect and it will move anyway.

getting the stresses of the wood fibers somewhat equalized on both sides will help in its stability.

I have gotten some really nice results using a sled.