Stuck chuck

[Jack Ganssle]

I recently got a deal on a Jet 1236 lathe and have been learning a lot. It came with a SuperNova chuck that I've installed and removed a few times. It always spins on and off very smoothly. I never tighten it more than hand tight - never use a wrench.

Well, last night after turning a bowl I went to remove it, and that sucker won't unscrew! Even with a wrench on the 1.5" nut on the insert.

I'm questioning my sanity: is it lefty-loosy when facing the chuck and headstock?

Any ideas on how I can get it off? And why would it get so tight?

Jack

[Ben Gastfriend]

I've had this problem before with a screw-on pen mandrel. It ends up being tightened and tightened as you turn, and then when you want to get it off, it gets stuck because of all the energy that tightened it on. What i've ended up doing is putting little paper rings down past the headstock threads so the mandrel (or chuck) can't tighten up so far and lock in like that.

I got my mandrel off by using two adjustable wrenches and alot of force.

[Jim Becker]

This does happen as the forces of turning make it get tighter as you go. One solution (once you get it off) is a thin, slick plastic "washer/bushing" that is sold to act as a buffer. Some folks recommend against them, but I've never had any problem over the years with the plastic bushing causing any runout, etc.

Try a little penetrating oil, let it sit for a bit and then crank it off.

[Gordon Seto]

Jack,

It is regular right hand thread.

When installing chuck, make sure you install the chuck snug before you turn the lathe on. If you allow the spinning spindle to slam the chuck together, you will have your problem. Or you may want to cut a washer out of coffee can lid between your spindle and chuck.

Use your knock out bar to lean against the lathe bed to lock down the spindle, use a dead blow hammer to tap your chuck wrench.

Gordon

[Jerry Allen]

There are two locking holes in the headstock on the right side.
You should have gotten two locking knobs for use with the lathe.
If not a regular 5/16 NC bolt will work.
Rotate the spindle as you screw it in to catch one of the holes in the spindle.
The treads may be full of dust, so you might clean them first with a q-tip and alchohol.
Then use a wrench or channel locks to loosen to the left as Gordon stated. Use a dead blow or soft mallet.
Keep the threads and face on the spindle clean of dust and pitch.

[John Hart]

I have a big hammer you can use.;):D

[David Fried]

....Or you may want to cut a washer out of coffee can lid ....
Gordon


Good One! I could never bring myself to pay the asking price for a plastic washer but making one !!!

Thanks

[Gordon Seto]

I have a big hammer you can use.;):D

With your just right magic arm?

Gordon

[robert hainstock]

Hey it worked for John.
the two wrench. or pin lock on the spindel are the answer. I have learned over the years to tighten the chuck by hand so that centrifical(sp) force can't lock it on when you start up. Just snug it up should work, and keep the spindle lock pin close by. :(

[Jack Ganssle]

Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Off to see the family and eat all that good stuff.

Jack

[Bill Wyko]

I have a big hammer you can use.;):D
I'm laughin my buttoff. I just read your post before this one John.:eek:If the chuch has no plastic in it, I'd try heating it up with a heat gun. It will expand the metal and hopefully allow it to release. If that doesn't work talk to John:D

[Gordon Seto]

I:eek:If the chuch has no plastic in it, I'd try heating it up with a heat gun. It will expand the metal and hopefully allow it to release. If that doesn't work talk to John:D

Be careful with torch. Seen it posted in another forum with stuck faceplate.
Don't let the heat migrate to the headstock bearing seals.

Gordon