glueing up plywood and hardwood

[Dan Barr]

Alright, i'm wanting to get some opinions here on the best methods known for glueing up a hardwood rail directly onto the edge of plywood.

specifically, how do you get "finished product" glue ups on the first go without having to touch up anything. (with the exception of scraping off the glue of course.)

1. clamp a block to the top of the plywood and use this to seat the hardwood flush with the top

2. align and clamp by hand/eye

3. biscuit join, domino or dowel join, then glue


anyway,

just looking for pros and cons and opinions.

v/r

dan

[John Branam]

I have had the most success gluing on the solid wood piece to the plywood leaving it about a 32nd of an inch proud all around. After the glue dries I use a flush trim bit in my router to even the wood with the plywood. I know you are looking for a way to do this with out having to go bck and trim but even with high quality plywood the thickness of the material varies through out a sheet, so that is why I feel trimming is the best choice.

[Mike Henderson]

I glue the hardwood just a bit proud of the plywood (or any veneer center). If it comes out quite a bit proud, I use a handplane to get it close - then a scraper to get it down level.

You need to be proud because you can remove some of the hardwood but you can't remove any of the plywood (or veneer) or the underlayers (or substrate) will show. If you wind up with the hardwood lower than the plywood all you can do is cut it off and start over.

Mike

[Mike Langford]

I glue the hardwood just a bit proud of the plywood (or any veneer center). If it comes out quite a bit proud, I use a handplane to get it close - then a scraper to get it down level.

You need to be proud because you can remove some of the hardwood but you can't remove any of the plywood (or veneer) or the underlayers (or substrate) will show. If you wind up with the hardwood lower than the plywood all you can do is cut it off and start over.

Mike

Ditto! ;).........

[Dan Barr]

plain scraper, cabinet scraper or scraper plane?

thanks,

dan

[Mike Langford]

I use a hand scraper aka card scraper......

75661

[Mike Henderson]

I use a hand scraper aka card scraper......

75661
Me too. I have a Stanley #80 scraper plane (I think that's the number) but I just use a card scraper.

I don't usually do really big things but if I did I might try the scraper plane.

Mike

[Tim A. Mitchell]

On my computer desk, I have 2 layers of 3/4ish plywood with a solid 1x2 band around it. I was only concerned with alignemt on the top, and use the overhand on the bottom to help align to the base. I had very good luck with biscuts. I prestained the oak, to create a drastic contrast to the birch, so I did not want to trim afterwords.

[Jules Dominguez]

I usually run a board for my edge strips through the thickness planer at a thickness a little bit greater than the plywood thickness , and try to set the strips flush on the "show" side when gluing. Then I handplane the excess thickness, mostly with a block plane. I set the plane iron proud on the outside edge to avoid cutting into the veneer. I'd be afraid to use a scraper for that job.
I rarely manage to have a piece come out flush without doing some planing.

[Mark Rios]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Henderson
I glue the hardwood just a bit proud of the plywood (or any veneer center). If it comes out quite a bit proud, I use a handplane to get it close - then a scraper to get it down level.

You need to be proud because you can remove some of the hardwood but you can't remove any of the plywood (or veneer) or the underlayers (or substrate) will show. If you wind up with the hardwood lower than the plywood all you can do is cut it off and start over.

Mike
Ditto! .........

Ditto what Mike said X2.