Quick and Cheap Router Table

[Stephen Clem]

Hello,

I recently purchased the Hitachi M12V2 15 Amp 3-1/4 hp Router from Amazon for only $132.49 total! I was saving for a 3-1/4 hp router and expected to pay at least twice that. Then someone on SMC annouced this special and I jumped on it. The only problem is that I don't have a router table for it and it's killing me just sitting on the table. I need to make a decent, but cheap, router table that I can use for awhile until I save up enough money for the materials for "the ultimate table." :D

Does anyone have any suggestions/plans for a cheap/easy to build router table? I've never built a router table before, so I would also like some tips on mounting it. Do they make table mounting plates that work for any router or do you have to buy one specific to the brand/model you own? I like the square phenolic plates seen on The Router Workshop. They seem practical and easy to rabbet the table for easy installation. What's the best vendor for router table accessories and materials?

Thanks in advance!
Stephen

[Randal Stevenson]

Hello,

I recently purchased the Hitachi M12V2 15 Amp 3-1/4 hp Router from Amazon for only $132.49 total! I was saving for a 3-1/4 hp router and expected to pay at least twice that. Then someone on SMC annouced this special and I jumped on it. The only problem is that I don't have a router table for it and it's killing me just sitting on the table. I need to make a decent, but cheap, router table that I can use for awhile until I save up enough money for the materials for "the ultimate table." :D

Does anyone have any suggestions/plans for a cheap/easy to build router table? I've never built a router table before, so I would also like some tips on mounting it. Do they make table mounting plates that work for any router or do you have to buy one specific to the brand/model you own? I like the square phenolic plates seen on The Router Workshop. They seem practical and easy to rabbet the table for easy installation. What's the best vendor for router table accessories and materials?

Thanks in advance!
Stephen

Your jumping the gun asking about plates (opposite of quick and CHEAP). Check out Bill Hyltons book Woodworking with the router at your library and visit Pat Warners (routerman) website. (can google, not posting a link). Use a piece of MDF and build some stringers to keep it flat, mount the router to that, coming up through a hole. Then either build a cheap stand, put it on sawhorses, etc. As you mentioned the Router Workshop, you have seen them use boards as fences. Start with that and work your way up.
A cheap way to get started.
I would also look at some of Nissim Avrahami's posts.

Once you start getting fancy, there is no stopping it. Start simple, and figure out your needs and wants.

[James Phillips]

I built mine in a day for about $250. Does that qualify....

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/jphillips97/IMG_2298.jpg

[Stephen Clem]

You both are on track. I'm tring to decide if I want to just throw a piece of MDF on a sawhorse, or go a bit more fancy. Mainly because I'll probably end up using it for a lot longer than I plan if it works well.

Is that a shop built top? melamine?

[Charles Wiggins]

In his "Router Joinery" video, Gary Rogowski demonstrates using nothing but a piece of plywood with the router mounted on the underside and a hole for the router bit, which he clamps down to a table top so it's hanging off the front edge. Plus he uses a straight piece of stock and clamps make a quick and easy fence.

[Allen Bookout]

I think that everyone is right on track here. It doesn't have to be fancy or expensive to be very functional. You ask about the best vendor for router table accessories; I do not know if they are the best or not but I have purchased all of my stuff from WoodPeckers. Not inexpensive but high quality.

[Dan Barr]

If your tablesaw has an extension table made of MDF to the right...

then you can rabbet out a square to match the phenolic plate and mount the plate/router assembly to the tablesaw.

And with a little work you can use your tablesaw fence to support a fence you build for your router.

v/r

dan

[Bill Huber]

No one said you had to make it all right now.

So start with the top and just mount the router to it. Make sure the top is good so when you build you cabinet you can use it.
Then when you have the time and the money you can add the plate, then a better fence and then the cabinet.

Before you know it you will have a first rate router table and cabinet.

My cabinet is made of mostly scrap from other projects.
The plywood was left form making my kitchen pull outs, the pine was left from making my shop cabinets. I did have to buy the 2x4s and one 2ft. by 4ft 1/4 sheet of plywood. All in all I think I have maybe $20 in it.


75558

[Stephen Clem]

That sounds like a good plan. I'll start with a top. I just thought you had to have a special plate to mount it. I think I'll get a pice of phenolic plywood and just clamp it to my bench until I can afford to build a cabinet and improved fence. Thanks guys!

[Sue Wise]

I used the Rogowski method with just the router mounted under melamine top clamped to my workbench for years. Actually, I was happier with the results than I am with my Rockler table.

[Dan Barr]

Really nice for $20.00

Really really nice!

v/r

dan

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Stephen, one option if you have a table saw is to purchase a cast iron extension wing that's designed for mounting a router in it. Then you can use your table saw fence for your router.

Regards, Rod.

[Thom Sturgill]

I built a rolling table much like the picture above. Stable and provides storage. The main issue is make SURE however you mount it that it is stable. I tried a rickety table , you won't like it.

As far a fences go, as long as its straight its good unless you want to use the router for jointing a board. A taller fence allows for better feather board attachment to hold moldings tight to the table. Make sure you get a pin that you can use as a guide/starter pin that will not cause problems.

[Don Bullock]

Check out the latest issue of Fine Woodworking for the article, "ROCK-SOLID ROUTER TABLE" that starts on page 66.

[Mike Heaney]

I designed and built this a couple of weeks ago. As some of you will have worked out from the deeper than wide look of the table, it was built to accommodate my new Incra positioner- the LS 25 wonderfence combo that some of us got on Amazon a few weeks ago. Sorry the sketchup diagram is a bit rough- this was my first ever try with the software!

The table carcass is constructed from 3/4" ply- it needs just under two sheets- these ran about $50 for the two.
The table sits on 4 heavy duty casters- two rotating with locks, two rolling- total cost about $32.
Other costs- some screws, and some ducting for the dust collection (I know the Sketchup doesnt show the the ducting actually connecting, but I couldn't work out how to make the cylinder follow a bend!)

Other things I did that are not in the picture:
1. added hinged doors to the open side of the case on the right. I left the shelves running loose in dadoes so they can slide in and out to make it easier to get things at the back of the shelves. I did not add doors where you see the 3 sliding shelves, only on the side with the "V".
2. I added a support piece across the top of the open end where the V and the shelves run. About 2" wide in 3/4" ply and the length of the carcass- it stiffens and squares the carcass and provides added support for the tabletop.
3. Created a lapjoint rectangular frame around the base- increased the height, strengthened the bottom and provided anchor points for the castors. All made in 2 1/2" wide ply.
4. The diagram shows the router plate a little further forward than in real life- as a result, I changed the angles of the "V" boards to move the downdraft DC hole slightly further to the back and to the left.

The BIG expense on this table was the table top- I decided to go with the Incra table (36"x24"). With the router plate (very solid) and shipping it cost a little over $200. That said, it is VERY thick and feels very solid- plus my Incra positioner could fit in the pre-drilled holes, so positioning was a snap!!

The overall height of this table was designed so that with wheels and tabletop is flush beside my Festool MFT table- lower than most will set up a router table I know, but it works in my shop layout!

I have a cutting diagram for the two sheets of ply if anyone is interested.

hope this helps

Mike

[Charles Wiggins]

Stephen,

I was poking around of Fine Wood Working's website and they have a video and plan for a simple router table (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=28007) that is a step up from Rogowski's, but would still be cheap and easy. It's is designed to take a router plate or router lift system, si if you wanted to put your $$ there first and build a nice cabinet later this would be a great stop-gap.

[Don Morris]

That's a pretty good size router: 3 1/4HP. They're usually pretty heavy. At least mine is. One piece of MDF usually isn't enough, if you go that route. You don't want sag. I've built two MDF tables (two thick pieces glued together) and liked them. Some of the phenolic choices look good to me, and their prices sometimes look OK too, but wouldn't have had the joy of doing it myself. My only other comment is that the saying it's usually hard to combine good and cheap together is soooo true. The fence can be just as important depending on the project.