Cabinet Installation

[Sean Troy]

Hello all, I'm going to start installing my shop cabinets in a day or so and had a question on leveling them. I'm refering to the the base cabinets. I will be using some kitchen type base cabinets I got for a steal and my problem is, I have about an inch and a half slope over a 20 foot distance on the floor. They will be used along the side walls and the slope is from back to front of the shop. Do I level at the base or counter top? :confused: What method? Thanks for any help. Sean

[Todd Jensen]

Its going to be a pain but I would level at the floor. You can always hide it if you want to with some 1/4 ply toe kick, etc. This will keep all of your drawers and doors level and working like they're supposed to and make top installation a breeze.

[James Manning]

Its going to be a pain but I would level at the floor. You can always hide it if you want to with some 1/4 ply toe kick, etc. This will keep all of your drawers and doors level and working like they're supposed to and make top installation a breeze.


I agree with Todd, I put down a 2x4 base and and leveled it first before starting on the cabinets.

[Rob Will]

Sean,
If those cabinets are particle board, it would be good to separate them from the slab anyway. Depending on the final height you want them to be, you might scribe a 2x4 standing on edge to the shape of the floor front and rear. Use these to make a platform exactly matching the bottom of the base cabinets. Then as suggested, cover the whole toe kick area with 1/4" plywood and paint it black. This could raise the cabinets anywhere from nothing to 3-1/2". That in itself could be a little easier on the back:);).

Good luck,
Rob

[Rod Sheridan]

When I put base cabinets in my basement shop, I made a ladder style frame with 3/8-16 propel nuts installed at each joint.

I then inserted 1 1/2" long 3/8-16 cap screws into the nuts, and adjusted the cap screws so the ladder base was level, and supported at each joint.

The cap screws allow perfect levelling, and keep the wood off the concrete floor in case of a water spill.

I painted the ladder frame flat black, which looks nice with the birch cabinets.

Regards, Rod.

[Mick Zelaska]

I had the same condition and leveled the cabinets. My toe kick goes from 3" to 5" and the cabinets and worktop are level.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you level at the base, doors will stay where they're put when they're open. If you level at the counter, doors will tend to slam open or shut. Hinges knuckles should be vertical.

[Bill White]

Rent or borrow a laser. Start the bases at the highest point and scribe a line for the bases to be shimmed to. shim as you go. That way all your bases will be level. Follow up with the toe kick covers as others have said.
Bill

[Jim Becker]

This is much easier if the cabinets don't have integral toe-kicks...which is why I build them that way. It's a lot easier to level a toe-kick base when it's separate from the boxes!

But an affirmative to both the need to get them off the floor as well as level from the bottom.

If you have cabinets with the toe kicks built in, you might build a platform using PT plywood that starts at the back of the run and is blocked up on a regular basis as you move to the "lower" part of the floor. This would be a lot easier to level than working directly with the cabinets if they have integral toe kicks.

[Sean Troy]

This is much easier if the cabinets don't have integral toe-kicks...which is why I build them that way. It's a lot easier to level a toe-kick base when it's separate from the boxes!

But an affirmative to both the need to get them off the floor as well as level from the bottom.

If you have cabinets with the toe kicks built in, you might build a platform using PT plywood that starts at the back of the run and is blocked up on a regular basis as you move to the "lower" part of the floor. This would be a lot easier to level than working directly with the cabinets if they have integral toe kicks.

What about shimmming level, scribing and then trim with a jig saw? I'm only going to have several on each side wall.

[Jim Becker]

What about shimmming level, scribing and then trim with a jig saw? I'm only going to have several on each side wall.

Yes, doable, but you likely have a bit more slope than one would typically like to do this way. You'll have to decide if you can live with the lower lowest height as opposed to the alternative of building up the floor to level under the cabinets. Purely a personal preference.

[Sean Troy]

Yes, doable, but you likely have a bit more slope than one would typically like to do this way. You'll have to decide if you can live with the lower lowest height as opposed to the alternative of building up the floor to level under the cabinets. Purely a personal preference.


I see what you mean. I think your way would work better for me. Thanks, Sean