Securing Balusters

[Dave Novak]

Maybe not a purely woorworking, but I have to wrap this project up before LOML will let me back in the shop. I replaced the builders cheap-o whiet painted balusters with iron ones. I didn't remove the hand rail, just kind of stuck them as far as I could into the top hole and slid them into the bottom hole. As long as I cut to the correct length, not too difficult.

My problem is securing them. I used an epoxy designed to set threaded rod into concrete foundations in the bottom holes. Works fine. However, the top holes are 1/2", and the top of the baluster is more like 5/16". I'd like to fill the "extra" hole with something to keep them from rattling around. I've thought obviously about the epoxy, but I can't find one with an applicator tip skinny enough to get into the hole around the baluster, and I'm concerned about it running out as well. I've also considered small wedges I would tap in to fill the void, but I'm concerned they'd just fall out over time. Any good ideas? Wedges with a little wood glue? I tried some pictures but I just can't get them small enough to meet the posting guidelines.

[Tom Veatch]

..., the top holes are 1/2", and the top of the baluster is more like 5/16". I'd like to fill the "extra" hole with something to keep them from rattling around. I've thought obviously about the epoxy, but I can't find one with an applicator tip skinny enough to get into the hole around the baluster, and I'm concerned about it running out as well. I've also considered small wedges I would tap in to fill the void, but I'm concerned they'd just fall out over time. Any good ideas? Wedges with a little wood glue? I tried some pictures but I just can't get them small enough to meet the posting guidelines.

For the picture sizing problem, and assuming you're using a Microsoft product, you might try downloading the picture sizing "powertoy" (http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/digitalphotography/learnmore/tips/eschelman2.mspx) from the Microsoft website. Gives you an entry on the right click popup menu to "resize" pictures.

The glued in wedge would be my first thought for securing the balusters - a good outdoors, water resistant glue, maybe Titebond 3? I haven't had much luck with polyurethane glue outdoors in a deck railing/baluster application. A filled and thickened epoxy paste might also work but would be labor intensive to apply and clean up.

[harry strasil]

how about the expanding weatherproofing foam, then just cut and scrap off the excess.

[Todd Jensen]

I use PL polyurethane construction adhesive - http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products/detail.asp?PLProductID=14 - for the tops and bottoms of iron balusters I install; no rattles or failures yet. However, it sounds like you already secured the bottoms? Rookie move.:p:D And from your description, next time you want to slide them down into the bottom hole and then up into the top so that the round pin top is as far up into the top as possible. This transition point between the round top and square baluster helps hide any top hole imperfections - I'm assuming you used iron shoes for the bottoms? Anyways if you have already secured the bottoms and are trying to squeeze glue into the small spaces at the tops, I don't think you're going to have much fun. I think you should probably just use your wedge idea with epoxy - just squeeze some of the epoxy into a dish you can dip your shims into and come behind yourself and trim the wedges/shims and clean up any squeeze out. Good luck.:cool:

[Todd Jensen]

His problem Harry is squeezing that foam into a joint/gap of 1/32 or so...On that note though, Dave, you could use a spray bottle to moisten the gap and rather than dip your shims in epoxy, dip them in gorilla glue. It will expand and help fill the joint, and is really not too bad to clean up. If you go this route I would blue tape the tops of your balusters at the rake line where they enter the rail to help with clean up and not touch the glue until it hardens up. You can then go behind with a little chisel/utility knife to clean up after its cured and just pull the blue tape.

[Steve Clardy]

Use a colored silicone caulk that will match the color of the handrail.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I use a glass hypodermic syringes with flat tip #15g 1 1/2" syringe needles to shoot glue under high pressure in to cracks and tight places.

You can plastic syringes too.

The old school guys would have likely used very tightly hammered and glued wood wedges to fill the gap you have. And of course it'd last just fine.

[Gary Keedwell]

I know this sounds far-fetched...but what if you had a sleeve that fit on the "male" part then used friction to hold it in place. Plastic or rubber maybe? Just a thought to maybe stir the mind a little.:o

Gary

[Todd Jensen]

A sleeve would be difficult without a seam since there is no way to slide the sleeve on at this point. The colored silicone would work fine also, but very difficult to make it not look lumpy, etc. You didn't say Dave what finish your rail has - is it painted or stained?

Working backwards has to be one of the funnest things about carpentry.:rolleyes:

[Dave Novak]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll probobly try the tiny wedges dipped in epoxy. Should have asked for advice before I started.

[Todd Jensen]

:DDon't take any of my ribbing with any more than a grain of salt, Dave - I'm only teasing because I find myself in a similar situation nearly every day. The problem solving after I've painted myself into a corner is truly one of my favorite things about woodworking/fabrication, etc. I had a mentor carpenter tell me early on that 1/2 of carpentry was the skills and the other half was being able to fix what is goofed up(self-inflicted or otherwise). Good luck with bringing it all together.

[Bert Johansen]

How about fat rubber washers (available at any hardware store) that you slide on before installation, then push them up to center and hold the undersized tenon?

[Stephen Parker]

How about epoxy putty? It's similar to clay and can fill the void.

[Dave Novak]

How about epoxy putty? It's similar to clay and can fill the void.

I didn't know there was such a thing. I've been thinking about this from the start. I'm off to google epoxy putty!

[Dave Novak]

:DDon't take any of my ribbing with any more than a grain of salt, Dave - I'm only teasing because I find myself in a similar situation nearly every day. The problem solving after I've painted myself into a corner is truly one of my favorite things about woodworking/fabrication, etc. I had a mentor carpenter tell me early on that 1/2 of carpentry was the skills and the other half was being able to fix what is goofed up(self-inflicted or otherwise). Good luck with bringing it all together.

No offense taken Todd. I've got thick skin and enough humility to know I make a lot of rookie mistakes. I'll make another tomorrow I'm sure.

[Richard Wolf]

I always use small wedges and epoxy to secure the tops and bottoms of wrought iron baluster. This will work fine for you.

Richard

[Ben Grunow]

Seems like an o ring could be pushed in very tightly and would not come out. Just cut it to size and push it in with a finish nail or thin drift pin etc.

Wood plugs could have been installed and drilled to match the new pieces in advance....I guess that is why you are asking for help then.