Rehab done part 2 the cleat system - more pics

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
I'm working somewhat backwards with the pictures from ending to beginning. As I hinted in this earlier thread:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=69070
I used a slightly different method from the standard framing to construct the walls in the basement.
What my goal was, was to construct walls which were;modular;removable;easy to replace if damaged - and still end up with something "good looking".

My solution was to use cleats to hang the sections, then tie the sections together with the trim.
By removing the screws from the trim and then removing the trim, each section can be lifted out for either access to the floor/wall behind or for replacement if it becomes damaged.
Being a rental, we expect it to get some hard use. By the same token, being a rental, we needed a method of "getting it back into service" as quickly as possible. Also, we need something that "looks good" - again, because it's a rental. While competition in the rental market can be fierce and units in this area can sit vacant for months, we've been fortunate enough to have a large selection of possible tenants to choose from.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
A few more showing how the cleats were made and put in.

The drywall is 3/8". For the cleats, I used leftover laminate flooring which when the backing was removed, measured exactly 1/2". I used 2x4's for the main part, and some scraps of 3/4" plywood glued on then screwed/stapled on for spacers.
The 1/2" gap the spacers provided resulted in a very tight (and strong) fit.
Since level and alighment were critical, the second, third and fourth shots show how I did it.
I put glue on one spacer and put it approximately where it was going to go. Then I put the cleat in place, supported by the boards screwed into the bottom of the supports. After checking for level, I drove a drywall screw in to hold it in place. When the first spacers was set with one screw and while the glue was still wet enough to allow movement, I moved to the other end and repeated the level-check fit - one screw for that spacer.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello, (cont)
And lastly these.

With both end spacers semi-fit with one screw holding them, I drew a line across the board at the top of each spacer and filled in the rest of the spacers by aligning them with that line. I glued and stapled them into place.
After checking for level - then checking for level across each section (module) - I checked the fit of the finished cleat.
When both level and fit were perfect, I drove screws to both hold the spacers and draw them tight for a good glue joint.

As you can see in the 2nd last shot, the mating cleat is a 2x2 with a section of laminate attached to the back to form the top cleat.
I used the laminate for a couple of reasons. Number one, the stuff is dead on at an exact 1/2" -whereas Borg plywood can be who knows how thick. Number two, the stuff is strong and doesn't change dimensions with humidity changes.
Number three, as the last picture shows, I had a ton of it left over from the kitchen floor, which only about a foot had been used from each piece.

I used drywall and plain 1 by pine on this one to make the modules, mainly because it's a rental and drywall is inexpensive and so is pine.
The project turned out well enough, that I'm going to do my own basement the same way, only instead of drywall for the facing, I plan to use oak and finish it natural and oak for the trim.