Hello All + G0513 blade questions

[Robert Sutter]

Hello All -

I've been a lurker here for a while and want to say that I really enjoy reading this forum. It has been really informative, a great learning tool, and an inspiration. Some of you produce some truly amazing work!

I grew up building things in my fathers shop but didn't really get involved in woodworking until I had the good fortune to build an addition on my home ;)... and then having the misfortune of being laid off :( .

At least this gave me the opportunity to build the shop that I had always wanted. And now the time has finally come to get a bandsaw. The LOML finally gave the go-ahead to get the Grizzly G0513 :D that I have been lusting over for the last year.

My question is this: What blades do you recommend? Lately I have been working mostly with maple, cherry, birch, mahogany, and occasionally ipe'. This is my first bandsaw so I will be doing most everything I can with it but my main usage will be resawing. I plan on going with Timberwolf (Suffolk) blades for general usage, and possibly Lenox bi-metal or carbide blade for resawing.

Other questions include: Will the saw properly tension a 1" carbide or bi-metal blade? Which blades in your experience have worked the best?

I know this this is an earful for my first "hello" post, so I hope I haven't bored any of you to sleep zzzzzz.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.

Rob

[Tyler Howell]

Rob Welcome,
I'll get out of the way and let the real BSers answer your question. The answer is here.

[Dan Smith]

I have the G0513 and like it a lot. For resawing I am using a Timberwolf 3/4" blade, not sure the rest of the designation (TPI and such), but I can look it up. I do have a 1" blade from Grizzly (crap) and it seemed to me that the saw was pretty maxed out trying to tension it. But that may not be the case with a better blade like a Timberwolf.

Hopefully Terry will chime in, as he has done a lot more resawing than I have with his G0513.

-dan

[Robert Sutter]

Thanks for the welcome Tyler and Dan.

I would be really interested to see how the G0513 would do with a higher quality 1" blade like the Timberwolf. At the same time I wonder about using a 1" bi-metal or carbide blade.

Here is why I ask about the success (or lack of) of using these heavier blades on the G0513.

Between Christmas and New Year I helped my father setup his new Laguna LT16HD (now thats one heck of a saw!). He bought it in the package Laguna was offering at the time, including the Resaw King blade. When we assembled the saw we put the 1" Resaw King blade on and it seemed to me that the saw was getting close to maxing out when that blade was properly tensioned.

I know that its not fair comparing a G0513 to the LT16HD. I don't expect them to be in the same league. But if his saw is getting close to the limit tensioning this 1" blade I have to wonder how the G0513 will do.

Thanks again for the welcome - Its great to be here.


Rob

[Paul Downes]

Rob, welcome to the creek. I got my G0513 this past year and really like it so far. Just wanted to pass on a note. If you order any blades make sure they are 131.5" rather thatn 132" as originaly specified. This allows you to tension the blades correctly. I believe that even though Grizzly had 132" as the original blade length, they are actually 131.5" in length.

[Paul Downes]

Rob, another note; I have yet to get some Timberwolf blades, but even with the grizzly blades I have been happy with the re-saw ability of this saw. I used a 3/4", I think 3-4 tpi, to resaw some dried Osage Orange, Cherry, and oak. I am a little sceptical of trying to tension a 1" blade on aluminum wheels. I have some concerns about "taco-ing" these wheels even a little. Perhaps my concerns are unfounded, but I don't think I'll take the chance. I think with a proper re-saw fence, a 3/4 blade will work just fine. The aluminum wheels are the compromise/value you get for the $ of this saw. If you look at the next step up, the wheels are generaly cast iron or steel. These wheels with their greater mass will have more momentum to cut through wood. They also will generaly take higher tension with less distortion. A good rule is to de-tension the saw blade when you aren't using it. Over all, I think the G0513 is a great value.

[Robert Sutter]

Hi Paul - Thanks for the reply. I am aware for the 131.5" issue and will order this length. From your input and Dan's above, I think I will go with a Timberwolf 3/4" blade to start.

Thanks -

Rob

[Terry Hatfield]

Rob,

First things first.....

WELCOME!!!!! Glad you have joined us here. It's a great bunch of folks.

Now...on to the blade deal. Not sure on the carbide or bimetal blade question. I have never used either, but I can tell you I'm using a 3/4" 3 tpi thin kerf Timberwolf for resawing on my G5013 and it has perfromed great!!! I have really challenged it with some tough white oak. I did a 11 3/4" resaw for some bookmatched door panels. Both the saw and the blade did a fine job. I have resawed some smaller dimensions as well and I am very happy with the blade/saw combo.

I called TW and told them what I was going to be doing with the saw and they suggested the correct blades. I would strongly suggest that you do the same.

Here is their site:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

Here are those door panels I spoke about. I figure if it will resaw this, it will probably resaw anything.

<IMG SRC ="http://www.terryhatfield.com/bookmatch2.JPG">

Not sure if you have seeen it or not, but I have a full review of the G0513 amd a little resawing article on my site if you would like to check it out.

Terry

[Robert Ducharme]

Fine woodworking Apr 2004 has a review on bandsaw blades. Might want to take a look at that. They evaluated the blades based on:

flatness

smoothness

speed of cut

They were liking the Wood Slicer blade from Highland Hardware. Also the Delta Platinum Pro. The Timberwolf blades were actually pretty low on the list! :( The ones they were comparing were for the 14" saws so I do not know if a larger saw and different set of blades by those manufacturers would change the results.

The blades they compared were: BC Saw, Delta Platinum Pro 28-960, Grizzly G5188 Carbon Steel, Highland Hardware Carbon Steel, Highland Hardware Wood Slicer, Jet Equipment and Tools Carbon Steel, Jet Equipment and Tools BandPlus, Jet Equipment and Tools Silicon Steel Flex-Back, Lenox Pro I, Lenox Pro II, Olson All Pro, Olson MVP, Starrett Woodpecker Premium, Starrett Woodpecker Flex-Back, Suffolk Machinery Timber Wolf A.S., Suffolk Machinery Timber Wolf P.C., SuperCut Carbon Tool Steel, SuperCut Hawc Pro, SuperCut Premium Gold.

I do not believe I should write all the results of the evaluation because I would probably be violating copyright laws. Maybe someone could ask "Fine Woodworking" if the results could be posted to the site.

[Randy Moore]

Robert,
Welcome to SMC. I do beleave this is the best WWing forum around. Hope you can post some pics sometime.

As far as the saw blade issue. I don't know a the answer so I won't give you any B.S. answers.

Again welcome
Randy

[Arek Kosinski]

I have this bandsaw and since it says it can run 1 inch saw blades i got a Timber Wolf 1 inch blade. I installed it but I am not happy with how wobbly it is. I checked my wheel tires of they are clean and intact, I thin the saw is all setup correctly but turning by hand the wheels i every 2-3 turns i see the blade go one side and touch the guides. The only way to avoid guides touching the blade as if i set them far apart which we know is bad idea. I wonder if 1 inch is too much for this saw. I can barely set the tension at 4 because at that level i feel like something may break. Advise please :) Thank you
Arek

[Prashun Patel]

Check for a proud spot where the blade is welded. If there's a high spot, you may be able to file it down.

If that's not evident, try a different blade and see if it tracks and spins properly.

You're right, it should not bop back and forth. In fact, when that happened to me in the past, it was sign and old blade was about to break.