Contractors tablesaw mods

[Chuck Lenz]

Winter is setting in up here in North Dakota and I usually don't get much woodworking done this time of the year because of the cold, so I'm back to doing more mods on my Delta 34-445X Contractors tablesaw that is about 12 years old. Recently I've been looking for a paddle type switch that I could mount under the Unifence rail. Delta has one, if you can find one, they are selling for about $75 with a new longer cord, a bit pricey for what it is in my opinion. The next option, which is the way I'm steering towards is a Craftsman paddle switch for about $25, it doesn't come with new cords for the Delta but thats ok, I'll just use the old cords, they are still in pretty good shape, I will probably have to ad to the cord going to the motor because I think it will need to be longer but that shouldn't be a problem with a small junction box that I salvaged from a Halogen work light, I can hide it under the cast iron top on the outside of the cabinet. I like the design of the Craftsman switch better also. Next I'll be building dust ramps from sheet metal for the interior bottom corners of the saws cabinet.

[Richard Dragin]

Chuck,
Here is my 36-666. I added the switch from Sears but Rockler now sells the same one for $29. As long as you are upgrading I suggest a link belt and machined pullies from A-Line-It along with thier PAL's which make adjusting the blade to miter slot a heck of a lot easier.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j147/DraginRichard/Picture050-2.jpg

[Bob Genovesi]

Here's my Jet sightly modified, :o

In 1998 I decided to purchase something new and settled on the Jet Contractor model with 1 cast iron wind and the 30 inch XACTA fence system. The saw also came with a 1 3/4hp motor wired for 110 volts.

Once home and partially assembled I ordered an additional cast iron wing, machined pulleys, and a link belt. I changed the motor over to 220 volts then gave the saw a complete tuneup using a TS-Aligner Jr.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/newtsajunior.jpg

Here's the saw in it's present state with 2 cast iron wings.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Jet-01.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Jet-02.jpg

I added a JDS Accu-Miter miter gage which matches the precision and repeatability of the saw.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Jet-03.jpg

This saw will cut what ever I run through it all day long and with the repeatable precision of something much more expensive at much less the cost.

This investment was definatley worth it.

[Matthew Voss]

I used this replacement pushbutton switch from Woodworker's supply ($20.59) on my 34-410:

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=140-066

[Rob Will]

I used this replacement pushbutton switch from Woodworker's supply ($20.59) on my 34-410:

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=140-066

I wish that switch was available in a momentary NO/NC version for saws with a separate magnetic starter (3ph). Any suggestions?

Rob

[Matt Meiser]

Rob, just buy a big mushroom head industrial pushbutton. Here's two inexpensive sources:
http://www.automationdirect.com
http://www.factormation.com

You'd need start and stop pushbutton actuators, normally open and/or normally closed contact blocks as required, and a small enclosure. I find the mushroom button very convenient to hit with my knee. Maybe occasionally TOO convenient as I'll bump it off once in a while, but that's better than the opposite. You'll want a recessed button for the start so that you can't accidentally hit it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Instead of sheet metal ramps, why not bevel a couple pieces of wood. Use double stick tape to hold it in place.

[Richard Dragin]

Instead of sheet metal ramps, why not bevel a couple pieces of wood. Use double stick tape to hold it in place.

Why bother with either? It seems like an excersize in fixing something that isn't broken.

[Rob Will]

Rob, just buy a big mushroom head industrial pushbutton. Here's two inexpensive sources:
http://www.automationdirect.com
http://www.factormation.com

You'd need start and stop pushbutton actuators, normally open and/or normally closed contact blocks as required, and a small enclosure. I find the mushroom button very convenient to hit with my knee. Maybe occasionally TOO convenient as I'll bump it off once in a while, but that's better than the opposite. You'll want a recessed button for the start so that you can't accidentally hit it.

Matt,
If I dont have time to locate all the parts.......
Have you ever seen one allready put together with both buttons and the contact blocks mounted in an enclosure?

Sorry for the hijack.
Rob

[Matt Meiser]

Not that I'm aware of but I haven't dealt much with industrial hardware in years. However, here is what I would buy, assuming your stop is a normally closed pushbutton like standard. If not, just get two of the NO contacts.

[Rob Will]

Not that I'm aware of but I haven't dealt much with industrial hardware in years. However, here is what I would buy, assuming your stop is a normally closed pushbutton like standard. If not, just get two of the NO contacts.

Thanks for the help Matt. There was something wrong with the link in the original post (missing "Y"). This works for me.

I'll compare to the OEM components currently on the PM TS and see which is the best way to go. As you said, we might be able to change that one operator.

Thanks again,

rob

[Chuck Lenz]

I apreciate all the paddle switch finds some of you posted. I am looking for one like Richard Dragin, and Matthew Voss has shown. A couple years ago I bought a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt for the saw and wired it up for 220 volts, those two mods made a big difference. I haven't tried the PALS yet, but I can see it as being a purchase in the near future. In the last year I started working on the dust collection by makeing a dust port and dealing with the open back of the cabinet useing sheet metal and so far I'm very pleased with it. I get a little bit of sawdust that sits on the ledge inside the cabinet, the ramps should solve that. One other thing I'd like to have are 2 cast iron extension wings. I only have one wing and it's stamped steel.

[Jim Heffner]

I apreciate all the paddle switch finds some of you posted. I am looking for one like Richard Dragin, and Matthew Voss has shown. A couple years ago I bought a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt for the saw and wired it up for 220 volts, those two mods made a big difference. I haven't tried the PALS yet, but I can see it as being a purchase in the near future. In the last year I started working on the dust collection by makeing a dust port and dealing with the open back of the cabinet useing sheet metal and so far I'm very pleased with it. I get a little bit of sawdust that sits on the ledge inside the cabinet, the ramps should solve that. One other thing I'd like to have are 2 cast iron extension wings. I only have one wing and it's stamped steel.

Chuck, I found BusyBee's Tools website a while back, they have that paddle switch for $11.99 til 1/12/2008. Thought you might be interested
in looking at it. Jim Heffner

[Chuck Lenz]

Today I decided to order the switch from Woodworker's supply ($20.59) with free shipping till 12/07/07 on internet orders. It comes with the electrical box also.

[Chuck Lenz]

I got the switch, and just finished working on a mount made out of 14 ga. sheet metal. It will attach under the extension wing where the fence bolts to it. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/Switch.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Nice job on that mount, Chuck!!

[Louis Rucci]

I have the same saw bought at a wood working show in Tampa a few years back. At the same time I bought the PAL's and machined pulleys. When I went to install the pulleys,SURPRISE, I already had machined pulleys.

The only upgrade I've done to mine is add the Incra TS-LS fence system.
I recently bought the full TS-ALigner and plan on re-tuning my saw in the future.

In using the PAL's, try and get the smallest socket rachet you can. I'm using a set from Xcelite I bought over 30yrs ago. Here's a link to see what I'm talking about
http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103486707

[Ron Lindner]

I have a Delta that I put a Biesemeyer Fence on, but what are PAL's. I have heard about the link belts, but does the machined pulley make that much difference?

[Chuck Lenz]

Ron, Pals are brackets that help you fine tune the alignment of the blade with the miter track on Contractor type table saws. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html The machined pulleys will reduce vibration, which can improve the cut.

[Phil Thien]

Once again, Chuck, that is some awesome metal working.

The paint looks almost powder-coat quality.

[Chuck Lenz]

The last couple of days have not been easy trying to figure out how to wire the new paddle switch without ruining the Delta pigtails. This is the switch box that was inside the cabinet of my Delta 34-445 tablesaw, not a good place for it anyway, they fill up with sawdust, another reason to get the switch out of the cabinet and up by the fence. With the Delta pigtails sliding into the side of the box it didn't give the sides enough room for the new switch, plus the box isn't deep enough. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/DeltaSwitchBox.jpg The next picture is of the switch box that came with the paddle switch. I cut the U grooves in it to accept the Delta pigtails which have better clearance comeing in from the top of the box. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/PaddleSwitchBoxMod.jpg Pigtails are slid into the grooves. Now the box is ready to be mounted and the switch installed. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/DeltaPigtails.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/DeltaPigtailsTop.jpg

[Norman Pyles]

Chuck, I am getting ready to hook up my dust collector to my contractors saw soon. Hope you don't mind if I use some of your ideas, I thought they were great.

[Chuck Lenz]

Chuck, I am getting ready to hook up my dust collector to my contractors saw soon. Hope you don't mind if I use some of your ideas, I thought they were great.
No problem Norm, if you need some help let me know. What brand and model of saw are you hooking it up to ?

[Chuck Lenz]

Finally installed the Switch this afternoon. It's been a long process, but I 'm very happy with the way things turned out. The mount is rock solid, and I didn't have to cut the factory pigtail to make the wires longer like I had originally thought I would have to do. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/SawSwitch.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/SawSwitch3.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/SawSwitchPigtail.jpg

[Norman Pyles]

Thanks Chuck, its a Delta 36-679.

[Joe Mioux]

Hi chuck,

Great job on the switch switch :rolleyes:

[Chuck Lenz]

As most that have, or have had a Contractor tablesaw know dust collection on these saws can be a challenge, but trust me, it can be done, don't let anyone tell you it can't. I think one of the biggest mistakes people make is sealing up the cabinet so tight theres nowhere for air to come into the cabinet, sufocating the dust collector, and useing a 90 degree elbow at the bottom of the saw restricts airflow also. Since a Contractor tablesaw has a open back take advantage of it and only partially block off the back, close up the gaps between the cast iron top and the cabinet with 1" closed cell foam and block the groove in the front of the cabinet where the blade raiseing handwheel is with a piece of magnetic sign material is what I used. Now all the fresh air needed to keep the dust collector breathing comes from the back of the saw drawing air in at a pretty good rate. This leaves less of a chance that sawdust can escape, especially the fine stuff. And ofcourse a good dust hood, chute, port, or whatever you want to call it underneith the saws cabinet is also a plus.

[Chuck Lenz]

Sheet metal dust chute with 4" steel flex pipe. No static grounding issues, plus a improved direction of air flow, and a more convieniant hose connection location than the plastic dust hood I was useing before. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/100_0059_2-1.jpg

[Chuck Lenz]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c89/Woodchuck_/100_0033.jpg