Ripping a molding, yes, a little nutty

[Matt Lentzner]

My father wants to run a molding at the seam between the wall and vaulted ceiling. Something in the range of a 135 deg angle. The ceiling has wood paneling and the wall is stucco, so it would make for a nicer looking transition.

His plan (and he wants to borrow my table saw to do this) is to buy some *half* round molding, 12' long and about an inch wide, and rip a 45 deg bevel in it. I can see a safe nor accurate way to do this short of making a custom jig to sit in front of the saw blade to guide the piece. And I'm not even sure *that* would work.

I'm thinking there has got to be an easier way to accomplish the goal.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions,

Matt

[frank shic]

how about using crown molding instead?

[Matt Lentzner]

Is there crown molding that would sit flush to both surfaces?

Or are you talking about essentially blocking the line of sight to the seam?

Matt

[Richard Dragin]

Is this what you are talking about? If so it should be easy enough to cut with feather boards and a push stick. Depending on the tilt of your saw you may want to add a sacraficial fence so as not to trap the larger piece between the fence and the blade.

[Matthew Voss]

Is there crown molding that would sit flush to both surfaces?

Or are you talking about essentially blocking the line of sight to the seam?

Matt


Rip the top edge of the crown to follow the slope of the ceiling. Use a sled, don't attempt this freehand. You can cut a transition piece to change the direction of the crown from horizontal to slope (which involves a little math), or build a small corner pendant.

[Matt Lentzner]

No, like this. Please excuse the crappy picture.

Sorry for not being more clear.

[bruce cain]

Matt,
Are your fence rails long enough so that you can move your fence to the left side of the blade?

[Matt Lentzner]

Yes, and I have a right tilter.

It's a Bosch 4000 so that may complicate things a bit also.

[Keith Cope]

Matt,

What type of fence do you have? would some sort of auxiliary fence that would effectively provide a fence "under" the tilted blade work? Seems to me that sort of concept in combination with featherboards and a push stick could work and be relatively safe and reasonably accurate. But with stucco being one of the surfaces, is accurate really that important?

Keith

[frank shic]

matt, i see what you're talking about now and why your dad proposed ripping the half round which BTW may not work too well since the back of the half round will probably not fit perfectly flush up against the corner created by the ceiling and the wall. matthew mentioned a good solution to this problem.

[Todd Jensen]

There is 'stock' quarter round molding that will come with that bevel out of the back.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello Matt,
I routed the profile on 1x4 stock, then ripped it to 45* on the TS instead of starting with the already milled stuff.
That way, you're also not limited to a plain half round look.

[mike holden]

Matt,
I think it would be a lot safer to use a router table and a 45 degree bit.
You can keep the bit "buried" and away from fingers, use a feather board in both directions to keep the profile constant.
Just my thoughts,
Mike