PROJECT: Tabletop Shuffleboard Game

[Keith Starosta]

About a month ago, my 11 year old son and I were flipping through a couple of catalogs I had received that day. At one point, I got to a page that had a couple of "games" on it, and Nick flipped! He saw the following picture...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2131/2036218862_8464cbb37f_o.jpg

It's a tabletop shuffleboard game. He really like it, as did I. What I didn't like was the price, which was over $100. Later that night, I studied the picture some more, and told myself, "...you can do that!"

So, that's what I'm doing. :D

The overall dimensions for the game are 48"L x 18"W. I liked the way the darker wood looked as trim and accents, so I decided to use some of the walnut I had on hand. For the shuffleboard itself, I started with a 48"x18" piece of birch ply. I laid out dimensions for a groove down the middle of the board for the center bumper, and for the "gutter" at the end of the scoring area. At that point, I slapped a straight bit in the router, and went to work. Here is the result of that bit of work...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2203/2036218930_7fe36df92e.jpg

Now that the initial routering was done, I started looking at the trim details. I figured that I'd go with a 3/4" wide trim piece around the perimeter of the board, as well as the center bumper. A couple of much thinner pieces of walnut are going to be used at the far end of board, and the facing of the gutter. Here is the collective molding and trim, all ready for final sanding...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2411/2036219246_0fb71a3bd0.jpg

So at that point, I had all of the major components of this shuffleboard table ready to go. Here is a picture of the dry-fit. Ultimately, I'm going to use a piece of green felt in the gutter. I didn't like the way the straight bit left the rough gutter, feeling that you would see the humps and bumps after the felt was applied. So I'm going to use a piece of 1/4" hardboard as a substrate for the felt. Even though it raises the gutter 1/4", it should look pretty good...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2286/2035423213_284809990c.jpg

Here are a few other pictures, showing some of the details of the board. Keep in mind...at this point, I've done no sanding, so you still see the saw marks where I nibbled away at the walnut trim...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2398/2036219076_c3bc980812.jpg

Another...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2340/2036219030_b677d80e75.jpg

...and finally...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2413/2035423051_18e1027905.jpg


I will definitely keep this up to date as I progress. I've got a bunch of finishing questions to ask, but will save them until I am ready. At this point, I am most likely going to make another of these boards for my nephew. He'll love it....

Thanks!!

Keith

[Mike McCann]

Looks great I remember playing that game as a kid.

[ROY DICK]

The table top shuffle board I remember playing was when i was in the service stationed at yurba bueno(sp) Island in the USCG life boat rescue station in the early 70's.As i remember (lol) it was a straight board with players at either end. But indeed it was a good time.

Have fun and make memories,

Roy

[Scott Kilroy]

I'm currently hoping to have a doll house complete for my daughter for Christmas (and Santa is not getting the credit). I was trying to come up with some ideas for a toy for my son, hope you don't mind if I use this for inspiration.

[Jim Becker]

What a kewel project, Keith!! 'Might have to put something like that on "the list" for an activity for our new multi-purpose room in the addition...

[Keith Starosta]

I'm currently hoping to have a doll house complete for my daughter for Christmas (and Santa is not getting the credit). I was trying to come up with some ideas for a toy for my son, hope you don't mind if I use this for inspiration.

Please do, Scott!!! I can't wait until it's done...

Jim, it better be ready to play for my first trip to see the completed addition!! :D ;)


- Keith

[Leland Berry]

Very nice project. Thanks for sharing. What is the "bounce" end
angle(s) to their adjoining sides-appear to be different than 45.
What plans for the "puck"- This would be a very nice "xmas"
project--Thanx

[Keith Starosta]

Very nice project. Thanks for sharing. What is the "bounce" end
angle(s) to their adjoining sides-appear to be different than 45.
What plans for the "puck"- This would be a very nice "xmas"
project--Thanx


Thanks, Leland. The pucks are actually what almost stopped me from tackling this project. I had no idea what I was going to use, or where I was going to get them. The problem was solved with the very first stop I made on the 'net. I found these at everybody's favorite online auction site...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2232/2036787721_83aeabae88.jpg

They are 3/4" wide, and 1/2" high. They're perfect for this application, and at $5.99/set, a decent deal. I bought two sets, because what are the chances an 11 year old and his buddies aren't going to lose a puck or two? :rolleyes:

As far as the angle the rubber bands are at...you have me worried a bit. The overall angle of that opening is 110 degrees, so the pucks are going to bounce off at a 55 degree angle. Do you think this is too much? I guess I didn't take that into consideration... :mad: Any opinions would be greatly appreciated at this point.

Thanks!

- Keith

[Dave Dionne]

Keith

Too cool and too funny

I have been working on the same thing since I got that catalog I even got the pucks from the same aution site. You have made more progress then I have, I have turned the angle question over to a couple of PHD physics/math folks that I work with I'll let you know what they say next week.

Looking forward to seeing your completed project we can swap pictures

Dave

[Keith Starosta]

Keith

Too cool and too funny

I have been working on the same thing since I got that catalog I even got the pucks from the same aution site. You have made more progress then I have, I have turned the angle question over to a couple of PHD physics/math folks that I work with I'll let you know what they say next week.

Looking forward to seeing your completed project we can swap pictures

Dave

Very cool, Dave! Thanks! Although, tell them that project progress won't wait through the weekend. I need their answers by this afternoon! ;) :D

- Keith

[Mike McCann]

I believe they still sell a smaller version of this game at the store I would suggest going to the storea nd checking it out Bring a protractor and check the angle no math involved that way.

[Mark Hulette]

Hey Keith-

I saw the same catalog and thought the exact same thing: "I could make that!" - very neat project, especially time with your son.

I'm with Leland... just from eyeballin' it looks like the angles are a bit different. You might want to shorten the dividing strip a bit to open up the scoring side a little bit.

Thanks for sharing and please keep us posted to the progress...

[Dennis Jackson]

For the storage you could either incorporate a lid over the gutter area at the end of the scoring area that would hold the pucks or build a box into one of the triangular areas past the rubber bands. At the very least get a bag and put a hook on the piece some where.

[Dennis Jackson]

Just a question and a suggestion. Why the gap in the rail at the angled end?

Now the suggestion: Put some storage for the pucks in it so it can be stood up vertical out of the way. Either a lid over the gutter or in the solid wood area at the bumper end. This will keep the whole game together when the novelty wears off. It would be terrible to pull it out of the closet in a year and not be able to find the pucks.

[Keith Starosta]

Just a question and a suggestion. Why the gap in the rail at the angled end?

Now the suggestion: Put some storage for the pucks in it so it can be stood up vertical out of the way. Either a lid over the gutter or in the solid wood area at the bumper end. This will keep the whole game together when the novelty wears off. It would be terrible to pull it out of the closet in a year and not be able to find the pucks.

Hi Dennis! I had actually thought about trying to incorporate some sort of storage, but wasn't sure how I could accomplish that? I'm not sure i understand your suggestion. Could you (or anyone else for that matter) elaborate a bit?

As far as the gap in the rails at the far end...if you look at the "inspiration" picture, you'll notice that the gaps are where the outside posts for the rubber bands are placed. The pucks are big enough that they won't hit the posts and not bounce "true" down the board? Does that make sense?

Thanks again for your suggestion!

Keith

[Leland Berry]

Hello Keith-I'm back-I was only curiious about the angle. From my old pool
husling days, I expected 45s from the back center--something like the angle of inflection = angle of deflection-i.e if the puck travels parallel to
the right edge, and inboard ,say 4 ", then theoretically it will return "close"
to 4" inboard from and parallel to the left edge,. Less friction ,less moon
phase etc. I'll try the 110 if thats best though---

[Keith Starosta]

Hello Keith-I'm back-I was only curiious about the angle. From my old pool
husling days, I expected 45s from the back center--something like the angle of inflection = angle of deflection-i.e if the puck travels parallel to
the right edge, and inboard ,say 4 ", then theoretically it will return "close"
to 4" inboard from and parallel to the left edge,. Less friction ,less moon
phase etc. I'll try the 110 if thats best though---


Uhhhhh.........what?

;)

I think I'm going to stick with the 110 degree angle. That way I don't have to cut into a whole new sheet of ply. :D :rolleyes:

Thanks, Leland.

- Keith

[Norman Pyles]

Great project. Thanks for all the photos. It is nice to see kids playing with something other than video games.:cool:

[Keith Starosta]

Great project. Thanks for all the photos. It is nice to see kids playing with something other than video games.:cool:


That's exactly my motivation, Norman. Thanks!

[Keith Starosta]

Update: Saturday, November 17

---------------------

Before I talk about what I did today, I want to talk about a decision I made early this morning regarding the angle of deflection at the end of the board. I laid out this angle at what turned out to be 110 degrees. This was a result of what I thought "looked good", and not necessarily any thought toward a puck coming off the rubber band correctly. There was a question as to whether that angle was going to be too much, giving an undesirable bounce. Well, this morning, I grabbed a scrap piece of ply and laid out a 90 degree angle. After looking at this scrap on the board, comparing it the "inspiration picture", and imagining how the puck would come off at that angle, I made the executive decision to keep my original 110 degrees. Hopefully that won't bite me in the butt later. :eek:

So today, I decided that I was going to try and tackle something new to me, that being inlaying. I've watched a bunch of online videos and read a lot more threads on this subject, and since these were only going to be straight lines, figured that I could do it. I needed to layout and cut a total of five grooves; one for a "Foul" line, and four scoring cells. I was kinda fired-up to put into use a far underused tool, which was my Dremel. I cranked down a spiral straight bit, clamped down a straight edge, and went to town...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2163/2040854267_1c031a3c20.jpg

It went really smoothly at first. Then my concentration slipped for only a second, and I let the Dremel come away from the edge for a split second. :mad: It wasn't a HUGE deal, but was going to cause me to make the inlayed walnut line 1/16th wider than I planned it. Oh well. The process of plowing out all five grooves took about 20 minutes, only because I was trying to be as careful as possible. In the end, it looked like this...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2028/2040854329_aaaa771d1c.jpg

At this point, I got to "milling" the inlay material. To match the trim, I used scraps of walnut. It was a little tricky, and it didn't take me long at ALL to make sure LOML knew that a perfect stocking stuffer for me this year would be a good set of exacto knives. I did my best with the knives I had, and even managed not to slice into a major vein in my hand. :D After a test fit, I glued them in, making sure that I used enough pressure on the 2x4 cauls I grabbed. After the glue set, I grabbed a 1/2" chisel and cleaned up the inlay a bit...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2092/2041651344_e9e8cece75.jpg

I managed to keep the number of times that I got over-zealous with the downward pressure, thereby slightly gouging the plywood, to one! BONUS! :rolleyes:

After cleaning up all of the inlays, I gave the playing surface a sanding, taking it through 120, 150, 180, and 220 on the ROS. The sanding process, and subsequent pressurized air I used to clean it off, showed me that I still have a lot to learn as far as inlaying, but overall...I'm OK with the way it looks.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2107/2041651362_70a00799c6.jpg


I am going to stain the game surface with a light colored stain, and then apply several coats of poly. For the walnut trim, however, I would like to use BLO. I love the way it brings out the richness in the wood. At this point, I'd like to get opinions as to final assembly and finishing. I'm definitely going to stain the plywood before I attach all of the walnut trim, but should I also apply the BLO previous to assembly, too? I'm concerned with messing up one or the other if I wait until after final assembly to finish it all. I'd really appreciate any comments or opinions.

Thanks for looking!!

- Keith

[Heather Thompson]

Update: Saturday, November 17

---------------------

Before I talk about what I did today, I want to talk about a decision I made early this morning regarding the angle of deflection at the end of the board. I laid out this angle at what turned out to be 110 degrees. This was a result of what I thought "looked good", and not necessarily any thought toward a puck coming off the rubber band correctly. There was a question as to whether that angle was going to be too much, giving an undesirable bounce. Well, this morning, I grabbed a scrap piece of ply and laid out a 90 degree angle. After looking at this scrap on the board, comparing it the "inspiration picture", and imagining how the puck would come off at that angle, I made the executive decision to keep my original 110 degrees. Hopefully that won't bite me in the butt later. :eek:

So today, I decided that I was going to try and tackle something new to me, that being inlaying. I've watched a bunch of online videos and read a lot more threads on this subject, and since these were only going to be straight lines, figured that I could do it. I needed to layout and cut a total of five grooves; one for a "Foul" line, and four scoring cells. I was kinda fired-up to put into use a far underused tool, which was my Dremel. I cranked down a spiral straight bit, clamped down a straight edge, and went to town...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2163/2040854267_1c031a3c20.jpg

It went really smoothly at first. Then my concentration slipped for only a second, and I let the Dremel come away from the edge for a split second. :mad: It wasn't a HUGE deal, but was going to cause me to make the inlayed walnut line 1/16th wider than I planned it. Oh well. The process of plowing out all five grooves took about 20 minutes, only because I was trying to be as careful as possible. In the end, it looked like this...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2028/2040854329_aaaa771d1c.jpg

At this point, I got to "milling" the inlay material. To match the trim, I used scraps of walnut. It was a little tricky, and it didn't take me long at ALL to make sure LOML knew that a perfect stocking stuffer for me this year would be a good set of exacto knives. I did my best with the knives I had, and even managed not to slice into a major vein in my hand. :D After a test fit, I glued them in, making sure that I used enough pressure on the 2x4 cauls I grabbed. After the glue set, I grabbed a 1/2" chisel and cleaned up the inlay a bit...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2092/2041651344_e9e8cece75.jpg

I managed to keep the number of times that I got over-zealous with the downward pressure, thereby slightly gouging the plywood, to one! BONUS! :rolleyes:

After cleaning up all of the inlays, I gave the playing surface a sanding, taking it through 120, 150, 180, and 220 on the ROS. The sanding process, and subsequent pressurized air I used to clean it off, showed me that I still have a lot to learn as far as inlaying, but overall...I'm OK with the way it looks.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2107/2041651362_70a00799c6.jpg


I am going to stain the game surface with a light colored stain, and then apply several coats of poly. For the walnut trim, however, I would like to use BLO. I love the way it brings out the richness in the wood. At this point, I'd like to get opinions as to final assembly and finishing. I'm definitely going to stain the plywood before I attach all of the walnut trim, but should I also apply the BLO previous to assembly, too? I'm concerned with messing up one or the other if I wait until after final assembly to finish it all. I'd really appreciate any comments or opinions.

Thanks for looking!!

- Keith

Keith,

I am no pro by any stretch of the imagination, but in the third picture where you are trimming down the walnut inlay, flip the chisel over and use the back of the bevel to help control the depth of cut. Think that you will find that it gives you much greater control, also a gentle hand with a card scraper can come in very handy for this type of work. Project is looking good and your son should get many hours of enjoyment.


Heather :)

[Keith Starosta]

Keith,

I am no pro by any stretch of the imagination, but in the third picture where you are trimming down the walnut inlay, flip the chisel over and use the back of the bevel to help control the depth of cut. Think that you will find that it gives you much greater control, also a gentle hand with a card scraper can come in very handy for this type of work. Project is looking good and your son should get many hours of enjoyment.


Heather :)

Thanks for the suggestion, Heather. I am still getting to know how to effectively use a chisel, so any tips are appreciated! I will try that on the next board I do.

- Keith

[Keith Starosta]

Update: Wednesday, November 28, 2007


A few family obligations, along with traveling for the Thanksgiving holiday, kept me away from this project longer than I wanted to be, but I'm back at it now. At this point, I'm ready to get all of the trim pieces glued up, and head into final sanding. I quickly realized that I am in desperate need of longer clamps. :( Being that the board is 48" long, and the longest clamps I have are 36", I had to use some CCP.....Creative Clamping Practices. :D

After letting it sit overnight, I unclamped it, slapped a 1/4" roundover bit in my laminate trimmer, and rounded over all sharp edges...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2160/2071303334_313c91ca9e.jpg

...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2270/2070508989_024e58efab.jpg


At this point, I went through four stages of sanding, to a final 220 grit. Some of the more cramped areas needed some hand sanding, which led me to realize that I had somehow let myself run out of sheets of 150 and 180 grit paper. :eek: 5-hole disks don't necessarily fold in half that well. DAMHIKT. This is the state that the board currently sits in...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2286/2070508975_6ea016644c.jpg


The only steps I have left to do are to purchase and install some maple doweling for the rubber band posts, then apply the finish. Based on the input of some well-informed woodworker friends, I've decided to go with Behlens Rock Hard varnish. While the pucks aren't going to be able to do a ton of damage to the surface and sides of the board, this will be primarily used by kids, so I want it to be durable. I haven't yet decided whether I'm going to apply a coat of BLO before the Rock Hard.

A few notes before I wrap it up for the day. I'll be making another one of these boards before Christmas, which is going to allow me to apply a few lessons learned, and for those of you that mentioned you might like to make one, they could help you, too. First, I will sand the interior face of all trim before I glue it to the board. Not that hand sanding was difficult by any means, but running the ROS over the walnut will certainly cut down on sanding time, which is not my favorite part anyway. :p Next, I will apply the green felt to the hardboard before I glue the hardboard down. I think this will give the gutter a cleaner look than having to apply an over-sized piece and trimming away the extra.

The one thing that I am probably NOT going to be able to do is inlay the text, indicating the "Foul" line, and the four scoring levels. At this point, I think I need to get the Rock Hard on the board to give it a proper curing time in order to buff it out to a gloss finish. I'm bummed about this, but one learning step at a time, I suppose.

Thanks for looking!!!

- Keith

[Rick Gifford]

Ok, BUMP for update! :D

[Dan Edminster]

Keith,

I do a great deal of patent research as a "hobby" and was able to pull up the patent information for a similar, if not the same, tabletop game. The drawings and specifications are readily available on Google's Patent Search:

http://www.google.com/patents?id=sCw7AAAAEBAJ&printsec=abstract&zoom=4&dq=shuffleboard#PPP1,M1

You're well into the construction, but it does give information on the dimensions and angles.

Regards,
Dan

[George Bregar]

Great project...make this next for your son, Nok Hockey! Played this for hours as a kid, of course that was looooong before video games. Everyone had them, and they were often "homemade":

http://www.amazon.com/Back-to-Basics-Traditional-Hockey/dp/B000XQ4RYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=generic&qid=1197814860&sr=1-1

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/319R1X6kZLL._SS500_.jpg

[Keith Starosta]

Yeah.....it has been a while since I've given an update. This doesn't mean that no work has been done. In fact, since my last post, I've actually started and completed a second board! The difference with this board, however, is that it actually works. :( As you'll recall, the angle that I was using at the far end of the board was 110 degrees. As I now know, this was very wrong. I only found this out after I had the first board to the final sanding stage. BUT...long story short, I made a second board, using lessons learned from the first, and made an even better version. This evening, I applied a third coat of Behlen's Rock Hard, and will let it sit for a week or so before I rub it out. I will be posting pictures of its current state later tomorrow.

Dan, thanks very much for the link to the patent info. Extremely interesting, albeit a little late. :D ;)

More to come. Thanks for your interest!!!

- Keith

[Rick Gifford]

Hey Keith what angle did you finally settle on over the 110?

[Keith Starosta]

Straight-up 90 degrees. I put together a scaled-down mock-up using this angle, and the pucks bounced clean and true. Sure wish I woulda done that in the first place. :( Oh well, live and learn.....

- Keith

[Charlie Schultz]

Very nice- that's on my to do list. How'd the pucks work out? They sounded rather small, but the next larger size that I could find (2"?) sound too big.

[Keith Starosta]

Yeah, the pucks may be another issue. I'm reeeeeeeally hoping that after I get the surface buffed out and then waxed, they slide a little easier. Right now, they are sorta bouncing after they hit the rubber bands. I think it also had something to do with the width and tension on the rubber bands themselves. I'll get all of that worked out this weekend.

- Keith

[Gary Herrmann]

Cool, Keith. I saw that in a catalog somewhere and have been thinking about it. Still have to finish this year's Christmas presents tho.

[michael gallagher]

Straight-up 90 degrees. I put together a scaled-down mock-up using this angle, and the pucks bounced clean and true. Sure wish I woulda done that in the first place. :( Oh well, live and learn.....

- Keith
I've been following this thread with interest, and have added it as a 2008 project.....please post pictures of your 2nd round, as well as critique the game play / "slideabillity" of the pucks.

Merry Christmas-

Michael

[Rick Gifford]

I've been following this thread with interest, and have added it as a 2008 project.....please post pictures of your 2nd round, as well as critique the game play / "slideabillity" of the pucks.

Merry Christmas-

Michael

I am watching it too. I think its great Keith is doing all the legwork for us.

Go Keith!!!!! :D;):D

[Bill Wyko]

That's great! Not only can you play it with your son but you can pass it on to him some day and him to his kids. The butterfly effect;) Nice going.:)

[Keith Starosta]

Thanks guys, for all the kind words!!! :D

I'm having to force myself to stay away from the board, and just let it harden and rest after applying the Rock Hard. I've got all of my high-grit paper just sitting on the bench ready to go. :rolleyes:

There are two things that I'm hoping to accomplish after the finishing process. The first is to put together a detailed SketchUp drawing for all to use. The second is to make a short video of the "playability" and post it to YouTube for all to see. Hopefully it works...... :o

-Keith

[Charlie Schultz]

Keith-
Awesome. In fact I had already started (barely) a SU drawing of it, but I'll save a lot of guesswork and wait for yours!

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Just wanted to pop in to say that this is an awesome project. I NEED to make one of these. Can't wait to see the finished product.

:)

[Keith Starosta]

UPDATE: December 21, 2007

---------------------------------------

Howdy, Folks!! I took some time last night to put together a rough SketchUp drawing of the Tabletop Shuffleboard. Here are some snaps from that drawing...


Here are the overall dimensions of the board. I forgot to place the dimension of the center rail. It is 36 3/4"L x 1"H x 3/4"W. It is centered in the board, placed in a groove that was routed 3/8" deep. It is butted up to the trim at the foot of the board.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2138/2126251509_5c7e92461f.jpg


Spacing out the placing of the inlays took a little trial and error. I finally got it set the way I liked it...based on nothing more than what I thought looked appropriate.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2137/2127028494_7d5619d278.jpg


The gutter was hogged out using a 1/2" straight bit in my hand-held router. I will ulimately use 3M spray adhesive to apply a piece of green felt.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2253/2127028480_2230a4dc84.jpg


The notches cut into the walnut trim were nibbled away one pass at a time, using my shaky miter guage on the table saw. The dowels are centered in the notch.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2325/2126251517_064ed42b75.jpg


If anybody has has any questions about anything, please don't hesitate to ask. I'm really looking forward to starting the rubbing-out process this weekend. Wish me luck... :eek: :o

- Keith

[Charlie Schultz]

Excellent! A couple questions- can you share the SU file and what size rubber bands are you using?

[Keith Starosta]

Charlie,
I have not yet picked up the rubber bands that I am going to use. From the initial rough testing I've done, I've determined that they are going to have to be wiiiide and short. The more tension, the better.

As far as the .skp file, I've uploaded it, but keep in mind, I cobbled this together pretty quickly just to get dimensions down on paper. Some of the construction techniques I actually used are not entirely shown in SketchUp. It should be easy enough to "fix", if you need to. ;)

Enjoy!

- Keith

[Keith Starosta]

************************
Update: December 23, 2007
************************

Well, I've got this thing about as done as I can get it.....without screwing it up, anyway. :D

Here are some pictures of the final product. My photography skills are...well, they're not good. Suffice it to say that the board looks a bit better in person.

After letting it sit for about 10 days after applying the Rock Hard, I rubbed it out using successive grits of 400, 600, 800, and 1200. Having never used paper with grits that high, I wasn't exactly sure what to expect. Halfway through 800, I was getting pretty concerned that I had done something wrong, because I wasn't seeing any discernable difference in the surface. But after I finished with the 1200, and then rubbed it out with a gray Scotch Brite pad, I was happy to see and feel that I had a very smooth, satiny surface. I applied three coats of Johnson's Paste Wax, which brought it too a satin finish...which is what I was hoping for. I have to admit, there is a bit of orange peel throughout the board, which sorta sucks. But my wife gave me the slap to the back of the head, and said that it looked awesome...which was good enough for me!! :D

Anyway, Here are some pictures...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2204/2131111086_828ebb1b84.jpg

....

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2075/2130331215_84df90be6f.jpg

...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2142/2130331401_70d2e9633b.jpg

...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2404/2131111284_007b53983f.jpg

...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2149/2130330769_fcf94c9f0e.jpg


And, as promised, I made a short YouTube video of the "playability" of the game itself. I think it came out pretty well...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxY2z_xDsO8


Please let me know what you think. I've got a couple more of these to make now, so If I can make improvements, all the better!

Merry Christmas to everyone!!

- Keith

[Jim Becker]

OUTSTANDING job, Keith!!!!

[Mike McCann]

Keith
great job, your son is going to have a blast playing with the game.

[Keith Starosta]

Thanks, guys!! My wife and I have already broken it in with a few games. I'm better than her. :D ;)

- Keith

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Keith, I don't usually comment on project posts but I have to say that that is spectacular. Seeing your finished product makes me want to work on one for my kids today.

[Keith Starosta]

Keith, I don't usually comment on project posts but I have to say that that is spectacular. Seeing your finished product makes me want to work on one for my kids today.

Thanks very much, Rob!!! I really appreciate that!

- Keith

[Gary Herrmann]

That turned out beautifully, Keith. Very well done. Your son will love it.

[Charlie Schultz]

Beautiful!

[chuck nichols]

Keith, thanks for all the great info. and inspiration. I was in the planning stages for the same project when I came across your post.
As I built mine I did a couple of things differently. First, I was interested in building a more traditional tabletop shuffleboard as well as the bounce-back type. I then figured why not do both in one? So I built one on each side of the gameboard (I increased the sides to 1 3/4" width to allow the rollers to work on either side). I used 1/2" ply for the gameboard surface and dadoed it into the sides. I then glued 1/4" ply onto the reverse for the smaller traditional shuffleboard surface. Also, to simplify the tedious sanding process I decided not to notch the end of the playing board where the shooters are propelled. It doesn't appear to make any difference in the actual playing of the game. Also, I didn't cut notches for the dowel posts - but instead used a flat bottom drill bit to drill into the side rails. I glued the center rail in place which eliminated the need for routing the center groove. I also used screws to hold the rubber bands since I had some that seemed to work perfectly and wanted to make sure the posts would hold up to the pressure from the bands since I only used 1/2" ply. The most confusing thing was the angle of the rubberband deflection. After a lot of trial and error, I went with 90' and it works very well. I couldn't get proper deflection @ 110' (even though that is about what it appears to be in the manufacturers pictures).
On the playing surface, I used decal numbers and letters which worked fairly well (very minimal reaction with the game pieces). I also re-configured the point numbering (25, 50, 75, 100) to make it a bit more equitable and graduated the sizes of the point areas to make it more difficult to get the higher point value (each one goes down by 1/2". And using another poster's suggestion, I looked for a way to store the playing pieces. I decided on 1/4" X 1/16" rare-earth magnets. I inlayed the storage area (the area where the pieces go when you over-roll the game pieces) with a piece of a rubber placemat and then drilled 1/4" holes and epoxied the magnets in place. They work beautifully, even when the board is upside down.
Again, thanks for your inspiration - this is an awesome project! (sorry, some of the pics did not go through).