Sharpening HF Tools

[Burt Alcantara]

I've got a set of Kelton Mini Hollowing Tools. After practicing for a while I tried to sharpen them by honing as recommended by Kelton. Got a nice smooth rounded edge. Pretty but wont cut butter.

Realizing that I have to raise a burr I hit the grinder. Same but worse so I put the tools away.


What's the trick?

Burt

[Bill Wyko]

Can you post a picture so we can see what's happening?

[Josiah Bartlett]

I'm not familiar with those particular tools, but usually the best way is to use a burnisher with the same technique as you would a cabinet scraper. That has worked well for me with my Sorby scrapers.

[Gordon Seto]

Burt,

The honing strokes should be upwards on the side edges.

Never touch the top surface with grinder; the cutter was laminated on the top surface only.

Gordon

[Bernie Weishapl]

Burt here is a exert from the kelton website;

Tool Sharpening.

Carefully observe the original shape of the cutting tip. Sharpening should seek to maintain these proportions and angles. The tool cuts by way of a raised burr on the tips edge. A few upward swipes with a diamond honing stick or common slip stone will maintain a fine edge. Avoid grinding until resharpening becomes necessary.

Remember to keep the rounded off area on the cutting tip maintained as such after regrinding as this serves to minimise 'dig-ins'.

I was told not to grind on a grinder except when they could not be sharpened with a honing stone. I use a diamond stone on mine and only a upward stroke. Look at the above where it says remember don't sharpen the rounded area. I have had mine now for almost a year and haven't been to the grinder yet. They told me it is very important to maintain the cutting angles or they were not going to cut well at all. I downloaded these directions by googleing Kelton Hollowing Tools.

Don't know if this helps or not Burt but he stressed several time only a upward stroke and don't grind until a last resort. Don't use anything on the top flat surface because that just removes the burr.

[Allen Neighbors]

Bernie, I think it means to keep the rounded off area round. It doesn't mean to keep off of it... to not sharpen it. That's what you do sharpen with the upward stroke, right? The rounded ends of the cutters?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Allen a Kelton rep told me when I bought the tool to stay away from the rounded off area and don't sharpen it. They said this area must be maintain as it is. They are not talking about the rounded tip. Posting a picture of the rounded off area I was talking about. They said that keeps the tool from digging in and catches. Yes when sharpening just upward strokes are used.

[Gordon Seto]

Coarse diamond or oil stone is preferred over fine diamond on raising the burr also.

Gordon

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Burt......I just use a diamond stone and just an upstroke. It seems to work well for me.

[Jerry Allen]

I have some Sorby bits that I just sharpen by honing the top surface. The instructions say not to sharpen the sides. I would ignore that if the shape got nicked or damaged, but would be careful to maintain the original bevel shape. Polishing the bevel should not hurt.

I have tried generating a bur on some tools I have. It seems to make a difference on softwoods, but not on hardwoods I can't see any difference on hardwood and the bur doesn't last long enough to be useful. I would have to say that getting a sharp edge by honing the top is all that is necessary, along with proper presentation, and pressure.

I do not have any Kelton tools but imagine the concept is similar. It's the corner intersection which cuts and gets dull, not the bevel.
I have bits I have made to emulate some of the commercial ones. When using a 1/4" square bit, I usually round the end and bevel at ~ 70 deg. I get it nice and smooth on the bevel, but the real critical part that I do is getting the top honed properly to get the cutting edge sharp. Sometimes I fiddle with the bevel shape to change the cutting characteristic.
If I bought an expensive tool I'd be hesitant to do that. It would be good to try and emulate it on a cheap metal lathe bit first.

[Gordon Seto]

I would have to say that getting a sharp edge by honing the top is all that is necessary, along with proper presentation, and pressure.

I do not have any Kelton tools but imagine the concept is similar.

DON'T touch the top surface of the Kelton hollowers. The construction is different. The wear resistance material is only laminated on top of the cutter. If you wear down that thin layer; the tool is trash. The shaft itself is not even HSS; it would not hold an edge.

Gordon

[Bernie Weishapl]

Gordon is absolutely right. The Kelton rep said do not put a stone to the top. When I bought mine the rep said once you have that top hard layer taken off with say a diamond slip you might as well buy a new one.

[Reed Gray]

Emphasis on a COARSE diamond stone. You have to remove a certain amount of steel to touch up the edge, and the fine stones won't do it. I do hit the grinder once in a while because I get better results than with the hones.
robo hippy

[Burt Alcantara]

Tried getting the burr back with the fine hone. Glad to see I was wrong. I've got a number of coarse hones and stones so back to work for me.

Burt