Please help me... (Band Saw Questions)

[Chris Barnett]

to not make a big mistake. Ready to order a BS but started to think....big is not always better! Currently planning to order a large bandsaw [not huge or gigantic ... just large] but thought for a moment that the larger size, which for purpose here is exceeding 14 inch, might not be as accurate as smaller saws. Intended use is resawing to make thinner panels for drawers etc, hopefully cut thicker laminates and prep for turning, whatever that requires, for which an axe just might do the job, but more tiring. And all this is just home stuff; too old [and retired=lazy...any company excluded of course] to do any real work with woodworking. Have read every thread I could find on the BS, but this one question remains. Thanks.

[Charles Wiggins]

to not make a big mistake. Ready to order a BS but started to think....big is not always better! Currently planning to order a large bandsaw [not huge or gigantic ... just large] but thought for a moment that the larger size, which for purpose here is exceeding 14 inch, might not be as accurate as smaller saws. Intended use is resawing to make thinner panels for drawers etc, hopefully cut thicker laminates and prep for turning, whatever that requires, for which an axe just might do the job, but more tiring. And all this is just home stuff; too old [and retired=lazy...any company excluded of course] to do any real work with woodworking. Have read every thread I could find on the BS, but this one question remains. Thanks.

Hopefully, you'll get a better answer from some of the more experience folks here...
From what little I know about bandsaws and resawing these are the things you want to pay attention to:

1) resaw height capacity - i.e., how high can you raise the blade guides to accommodate your stock? And is that height going to be enough for the stock you anticipate running. A number of the 14" models require an additional riser block be purchased and installed to increase the capacity more than a few inches.
2) power - If you're going to resaw 8" tall hardwoods over and over you don't want a wimpy motor.
3) blade width - Generally for resawing, I would want to be able to run a 3/4" blade or wider. You should get less drift with the heftier blade.

[Nancy Laird]

Chris, if I may be so bold as to suggest that you go to Woodcraft at 8023 Kingston Pike and talk to them about a Steel City band saw. They have several models and if the sales people at WC know their stuff, they'll be able to steer you in the right direction. If they seem that they don't know what they are talking about, LET ME KNOW----Murfreesboro isn't that far away and Scott Box will have one of his people with you in a heartbeat.

Nancy (37 days)

[Dan Forman]

I've never heard anyone say that a 16 - 20" bandsaw is inherently inaccurate due to it's size. Most pro shops go large, which wouldn't make sense if accuracy was compromised.

Dan

[Bill Wyko]

Proper alignment of your fence to your blade is the key to success with your band saw. The best way I've found to do that is to freehand cut a 3/16th veneer off of a large piece for about 1/2 the length. At that point adjust your fence flat against your stock. Then continue your cut, it should give you a slice that is equal in thickness. I guess I should have mentioned to set up your blade perpendicular to the table and adjust your guide bearings first. All this is IMHO.:D Good luck with your purchase.

[Chris Barnett]

Thanks for comments. Larger machines are less accurate due to greater tolerances on larger dimensions, but what I am understanding, this is not a problem with larger machines. Perhaps the allowable tolerances for woodwork are so large that the tolerance buildup for the larger machines is a non issue. Bottom line is the larger machines apparently do not degrade the results due to size.

[Rob Will]

I'm not buying the notion that larger machines are less accurate. If anything, a heavy machine is more stable and accurate than a lightweight version. For the most part, bandsaw accuracy is in things like blade quality and guide setup.

Buy the largest bandsaw you can afford.

Rob

[Don L Johnson]

I went to a woodworking show a couple of years back and watched a demo form a bandsaw expert; he was demonstrating one of the popular brands. He stated that if you are going to buy a bandsaw, get the biggest one you can afford....a bigger bandsaw can do what a smaller one can, but a small bandsaw cannot do what a bigger one can. Made since to me. I had an old 12" Craftsman...sold it on craigslist and bought an 18" Jet. After wiring it up to 220, it is awesome. Go BIGGER!

[Chris Barnett]

Any other mechanical engineers out there to address casting or machining tolerances on large relative to small dimensions, and the resultant tolerances on results? Or are there any woodworking machine makers out there?

[Jesse Cloud]

Hey Chris, I can give you some anecdotal data. I take woodworking classes at Santa Fe community college. In the shop I use most of the time there is a 14inch Delta and a freakin humongous (never measured, but well over 20 inches) SCMI saw. The SCMI is way more accurate than the Delta.

Of course, a lot depends too on the sharpness/cleaness of the blade, the quality of the guides, operator skill, etc.

Bottom line is I don't think you have to worry about a large bandsaw, so long as you don't get it at Harbor Freight.:eek::p;)

[glenn bradley]

If anything I would expect greater accuracy from a larger saw. That is definitly the case with my experience. Consider your re-saw height requirements if it is greater than 6" you want to go to a 16 - 18" saw at least IMHO.

The 14" Rikon with the 13" resaw was the one I was considering and still feel it is a good saw. The price was so close to a larger saw I went to a 17" with 12" capacity in height. HTH.

[John Thompson]

They don't run 36" BS's on production lines because they are less accurate, Chris. They run them because they have heavy, balanced cast iron wheels, larger motors with more power that can run continuously in a commercial enviroment, larger springs to maintain beam strengh with capacity of wider blades and heavy duty bearing that require less maintenance and subsequent replacement.

But... with that said, a smaller saw could be more "accurate" than a larger saw if.. if.. the larger saw has been poorly designed, has poor machining, is made with inferior components.. etc.. etc.. So... if you want accuracy.. heavy duty.. and more power with larger capacities.. buy a larger BS that is well designed and machined to respectable tolerances.

Bottom Line: Small or large does not equal = Accuracy... The quality of components and design does regardless of large or small!

Regards...

Sarge..

[Tom Veatch]

Any other mechanical engineers out there to address casting or machining tolerances on large relative to small dimensions, and the resultant tolerances on results? Or are there any woodworking machine makers out there?

Chris, I'm not a mechanical engineer - took more fluid dynamics courses so my BS iis n AeroEng, MS is in Structural Dynamics and I spent my working life in structural design. I think you are really talking about two different kinds of tolerences. One is the machining/assembly tolerances on the component parts of the bandsaw. Machining tolerances are usually expressed in absolute terms rather than in percentage of dimension. Until you get into dimensions that are far larger than would be found in anything that would fit into a workshop, I would expect the overall dimensional tolerances and stackup on a large bandsaw to be equivalent to that of a smaller bandsaw - similar number of parts, and not a huge absolute difference in the sizes of the component parts.

The other tolerence you are concerned about, and rightly so, is really the accuracy of the cut. That's the only one that's really of any significance to the user. Whatever the tolerence stackup might be in the structure of the saw, when you do the machine setup, guide adustments, etc., those adjustments null out the structural tolerences. You are then left with deflections of the machine components under load. Making equivalent cuts on two machines, both set up properly and running blades of equivalent tooth form and sharpness would result in approximately the same load on each machine. Assuming an equal quality in the design and construction of both machines, the larger machine will, in all likelyhood, be stronger, stiffer, and see less deflection.

I've run both a 12" and a 16" bandsaw in my shop. Of course, you can do whatever you wish, but I'll take the 16" over the 12" any day.

[Rob Will]

I have a 12" Craftsman BS (mostly plastic and aluminum) sitting right next to my Moak Super 36 (2500 lbs, all cast iron, direct drive) Guess which one is the best saw :rolleyes: !!

Actually, the Craftsman does have one distinct advantage over the Moak. Equipped with the aluminum table, you can sit your drink on the Craftsman without fear of rust. :D

Good luck with your decision.

Rob

[Rick Gifford]

Hopefully, you'll get a better answer from some of the more experience folks here...
From what little I know about bandsaws and resawing these are the things you want to pay attention to:

1) resaw height capacity - i.e., how high can you raise the blade guides to accommodate your stock? And is that height going to be enough for the stock you anticipate running. A number of the 14" models require an additional riser block be purchased and installed to increase the capacity more than a few inches.
2) power - If you're going to resaw 8" tall hardwoods over and over you don't want a wimpy motor.
3) blade width - Generally for resawing, I would want to be able to run a 3/4" blade or wider. You should get less drift with the heftier blade.

These are good points to consider. I am looking for a good BS myself. I think I should stick with looking at the 18". Anyone have recommendations on brand/models?

[Mike Wilkins]

No reason to feel that a large bandsaw will be less accurate than a 14" machine. In fact, due to the higher tensions you can achieve with blade tension, it may be more accurate. A wider/thicker blade can be tensioned at a much higher number than a 14" machine, resulting in higher beam strength.
That is the reason I went from a Delta 14" machine to one of the 18" machines marketed by a certain California firm.
And you will never regret having too much bandsaw as opposed to having one with not enough power and capacity.
I also recently got a Rikon benchtop bandsaw just for the small stuff.
Good luck with your decision.

[James Phillips]

One correction to some of the post in this thread. Resaw with a 1/2" blade. The drift is caused not by a narrow blade, but rather because the teeth of the blade are not centered on the tires (the tires have a crown). Most saws in the hobby size (17" and down) will not allow a 3/4"blade to be properly set up. They will take a 3/4" but it takes the whole tire and so it cannot be set up properly

[Richard Dragin]

Chris,
You are over thinking this one. Get the biggest band saw you can afford, you will never regret going bigger.

[Ray Phillips]

I have an 18" RIKON and I love it. It has done everything I have ask it to do except wash my car.:D :D :D

[Chris Barnett]

Well, I could analyze the issue to death, but what I was hoping to hear, I indeed heard, experience, and I appreciate the input from everyone.
The problems due to tolerance buildup would apply, since the resultant inaccuracy of a longer dimension would be greater than a smaller one; but implied in some comments is that the larger machines are probably built for a more demanding market; thus the stronger design more than compensates for the inaccuracy increase in the larger machines. And as mentioned, the actual variations in dimensional accuracy due to machining is more than offset by the reduced flexure in CI frame, as compared to perhaps stamped steel. Within like categories, production...heavy CI rigs, medium to large steel framed hobby or medium commercial use, and pure hobby [metal - not well defined but shiny stuff with plastic], with exceptions in each category, would the size argument on accuracy be valid? Is the 20 inch BS as accurate as the 14 inch BS, both with formed steel frames.

I would expect the big brutes built of CI and with weights well in excess of a half ton, and jaws wider than a bear's [:D ] be much more accurate. Ordered the G0514X2, so I hope you experienced guys are right :) .

[John Bailey]

They're right, you did good, and we need pictures when you get it!!:)

John