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Steve Roxberg
02-11-2004, 6:45 PM
need to make a Mission Style computer desk and can't locate a plan, I've searched, I like. So I'm going to attempt to design it from a photo, and my own (and hopefully your) ideas.

Is this an acceptable subject for this forum?

Are there some members who would like to help?

I will use Quarter Sawn Red Oak, I have 50 board feet, and I also have two 1/4 " Quarter sawn sheets of plywood. I will plan on a frame and panel design us use the plywood.

How should I handle the top? I was thinking about gluing the 1/4 ply to a 3/4 birch ply. It would give me thickness. and the pretty look? Any thoughts, it would be heavy.

This unit is being built in the basement, and it will be used down there. But it would be nice to be able to get it out someday. Any ideas on how to make it breakdown for moving?

Thanks in advance, I'm a plans kind of guy, but designing it from the start might be fun.

Any good, read SIMPLE, CAD programs out there?

Richard Gillespie
02-11-2004, 8:51 PM
I use to work for a company that makes a lot of mission furniture. You might want to check their INTERNET site out for ideas. They are at http://www.hardwoodartisans.com. I'm sorry, I don't have any plans for you to look at.

Now to your idea of gluing 1/4" oak plywood to 3/4" Plywood I would think you are going to run into problems trying to do it. When I worked at the above company, we use to do glue ups like that only we used spray on contact cement and self powered pinch rollers. We were not concerned about the resulting irregular thicknesses because we were gluing 3/4" to 3/4" and machine wide belt sanding that down to 1".

I think you would have better luck buying 3/4" red oak plywood and banding it with either 3/4" or 1" oak for a top. I feel that this would give you a better top than what you are thinking of doing. You could always get additional oak and edge glue up for a top also.

Todd Burch
02-12-2004, 1:08 AM
Steve, yes this is an acceptable forum.

I use an application called Sketchup to draw with. I did this drawing in about 35 minutes. How do you want it changed?

This design is basically 2 drawer boxes with a top across them. Arbitrary sizes/style, etc., just to get the conversation going.

Todd.

Steve Roxberg
02-12-2004, 5:07 PM
Very cool Todd, is the program expensive?

As far as the design you are close, but here are some more of my thoughts.

The end panel, I was thinking about splitting it up with a vertical stile in the center.

In the knee hole I was going to have it blocked with what I believe is called a modesty skirt. fram and panel all the way across the front.

Left desk unit would be two file cabinet drawers.

Right drawer unit looks good.

Knee hole would have a drawer for keyboard, full width.

Knee hole would be wider and on the right hand side would have a opening about 8 inches wide and as tall as possible, but the drawer would go full width. Basically a spot for the tower to sit. (should I try and hide the front of the tower?

I want to design easy access to the back of the computer unit for cabling.

Next we'll talk construction details.

I was going to use a lock miter for the corners.

How would you hang the drawer? Side mount slides wouldn't work. maybe Blum undermount drawer slides.

Thanks again for any and all help.

Todd Burch
02-12-2004, 9:53 PM
The program is $475. but I'll sell you a copy for $500 :)

Before I go making all these changes, which I am happy to do, when I have time, let's start with overall dimensions, then I'll change the drawing. (height and width, top overhang front/sides/back, top edge treatment, left & right box widths, kneespace width, floor clearnance - as much of this as you can provide.)

Not sure what you mean about the "knee hole being wider on the right hand side" Not sure how a negative space can be wider on either side!!!

Now, obviously, if you knew all these dimensions, you would be well on your way to having your design. But, these are the building blocks of design - provide what it is that you do know, and then fit the other stuff in as you go. For example, you know you want a accomodate a tower, but you want to be able to access the cables. Therefore, in the knee space area, I would design an open shelf that the tower could sit on. One side of the tower would be completely exposed, and on your knees, you could get to the cabling. (Or the shelf could slide out too.) And, you would be free to like it or not, but then that's one more design decision that leads us down the path.

Why wouldn't side-mount slides work? I use them all the time.

Todd

Steve Roxberg
02-13-2004, 8:22 AM
Thanks Todd, I appreciate the offer.

Let me scratch out a few more ideas this weekend and I'll get back with the crew.

Steve Roxberg
02-16-2004, 11:54 PM
I'm, back and have found a picture that looks like what I want.

I would change the following, but let me know your ideas?

I would add a fold down drawer front to hide the keyboard when not in use.

What could I do to hide the CPU as well? a door?

I would like to have the back of the CPU accessable, so I was thinking about a panel held in place with rare earth magnets. It would look solid, but the whole panel could be pulled off in a pinch.

Size
CPU compartment 9-1/2" W x 23 1/2"D x 21"H

Width: 68"
Depth: 32"

My other question is with this style of drawer front, inset correct? how do you use drawer slides?

I was thinking about using Blum slides, the ones that hide underneath.

Would the sides look better with a split panel, instead of one big panel?

Jim Becker
02-17-2004, 9:14 AM
Steve, if you choose to close in the area where the computer is to be located, you need to make provisions for proper ventilation. Heat is the enemy of all things electronic and you need to deal with that. You really need air flow through the cabinet. Just like your DC in the shop, you need to get air in and then get air out...the latter being at a higher temp than the air coming in. Make sure you plan for that. Convection may not be enough even if you leave the back off behind the unit...an exhaust fan is a good idea.

Steve Roxberg
02-17-2004, 9:40 AM
Steve, if you choose to close in the area where the computer is to be located, you need to make provisions for proper ventilation. Heat is the enemy of all things electronic and you need to deal with that. You really need air flow through the cabinet. Just like your DC in the shop, you need to get air in and then get air out...the latter being at a higher temp than the air coming in. Make sure you plan for that. Convection may not be enough even if you leave the back off behind the unit...an exhaust fan is a good idea.

Excellent idea Jim and one I hadn't thought of. I can plan for that.

What did you think of the idea of holding the side panel in place with magnets to make acccess easy? Can you think of another quick way to get access?

Jim Becker
02-17-2004, 9:48 AM
What did you think of the idea of holding the side panel in place with magnets to make acccess easy? Can you think of another quick way to get access?

I think I'd be more comfortable with some form of screw fasteners, only because "twitching feet" can exert more force on the magnets than you might expect. Foul language could result ever time you kick the panel off! :rolleyes:

Do remember that you have a weight bearing point in that area (at least with the pictured design), so your panel will need to be over some form of framework. If you make it so it hooks over the frame on the inside to the rear, you only need one or two fasteners to the front...kinda like the PC case, but in reverse.

Bart Leetch
02-17-2004, 10:10 AM
Steve

I made a 8' computer desk & left the back side of the CPU area completely open. One thing I wish I had done is add a pull out shelf on drawer glides to set the CPU on & purchased the extension cord for the monitor. This way I could slide the CPU out to connect & disconnect all the items plugged into the back of the CPU. Just some things to think about, learned from experience.

Todd Burch
02-17-2004, 9:07 PM
I think what I would do to "hide" the CPU would be to add a door to the picture that you posted, hinged on the right side, and then lose the left hand side panel, exposing the whole side of the CPU. Then, from the front, you don't see it. The chair would "hide" the side of the CPU, and you don't have to worry about cable access or over heating. Also, if you to a wider tower later, if it has to stick out a little bit - it can.

A flip-front drawer for the keyboard is no big deal. Good idea - it will look "neat"er.

For drawers, I usually build a drawer box and then add a false front. That way, all my drawer boxes are the same (from a construction, planning and finishing standpoint). The drawer front could then be solid wood or edged plywood. In higher-end units, I will make a 5-piece drawer front. I start off with 1/2" solid wood, then add 1/4" thick by however-wide-looks-good framing around it, mitered at the corners, giving the drawer front a recessed panel look. (Not sure that is a mission look though...)

The blum slides you mentioned at called Tandem (or Tandem Plus). Nice slides, and you have to build your drawer boxes to fit the hardware. No big deal, just be sure to get the Blum tech sheets for the slides.

Personally, I would like a mid-style on the sides. More details, a better look. I would finish the back too.

What's the height of the desk? Are you also wanting that upper part too?

Steve Roxberg
02-17-2004, 10:33 PM
The upper section would have to be a phase two. Not in the next year anyway.

They have these dimensions on the desk.

Height: 29"
Width: 68-1/4"
Depth: 32"

I'll have to think about how to vent or open the cpu cabinet, All great ideas.

So how would one make this moveable out of a basement? I'm assuming each base unit would be a component, and the top.

How would the front look? Mine will be against a wall, but who knows for the future.

Thanks for the help and ideas.

Todd Burch
02-17-2004, 11:24 PM
The back would look like the sides - again, frame and panel.