View Full Version : Glue removal inside boxes
Jared Cuneo
11-08-2007, 11:32 PM
I use blue painters tape to assemble the sides and all is well until I attach the bottoms of my boxes. tape seems to do no good in the inner corners and edges of the box, so do I just wipe it off best I can and sand it?
The issue there is that I tend to get sanding lines from going back and forth. :(
Anyone have suggestions for sanding in tight corners or ways to keep glue from spreading when attaching box bottoms? Should I starve the very inner edges of the box of glue?
Thanks!
JC
Jamie Buxton
11-08-2007, 11:38 PM
Do at least some of your finishing before you assemble the box. If you have finish -- oil, varnish, wax, whatever you like -- on a surface, glue won't adhere very well to it. You can generally chip it off easily with a chisel. Or you can leave a little squeeze-out deep inside the box. The finish underneath the squeeze-out will have already changed the color of the wood, and the squeeze-out isn't very obvious.
Eddie Darby
11-09-2007, 5:17 AM
A little glue goes a long way.
You only need to apply glue lightly to one surface only, if the time between gluing and clamping isn't long.
Tony Ward
11-09-2007, 5:53 AM
I agree with Eddie. It is un-necessary to apply glue to have it ooze out from a joint when closed.
My practice is to spread the glue evenly over one side of the surface to be glued, allow it to stand for a little while, place both surfaces together for a couple of minutes or less, then after making sure the edges are properly aligned, clamp. Any overflow, can be removed, later, with a sharp knife or chisel.
Jared Cuneo
11-09-2007, 8:12 AM
Excellent suggestions, thanks!
JC
Cliff Rohrabacher
11-09-2007, 9:03 AM
I have used a square scraper and chisels sharpened so the burr remains with good success for inside corners.
A little delicacy and a light touch will leave a nice finish and get the glue.
It's been my experience that whenever I wipe the glue off before it hardens (wet rag or dry) I always end up forcing glue some into the grain and it always affects the appearance when finish is applied.
However, I have wondered whether the newer non wetting water based finishes would produce the same phenom' since they don't darken the wood.
Brad Olson
11-09-2007, 9:18 AM
I use a carbide triangular scraper from woodcraft. Works great for getting into tough places and because it is carbide it can deal with the punishment.
Usually only a light sanding is required after scraping the glue away. I try and scrape the glue away about 30-60 minutes after clamping as this seems to be the "optimal" time to scrape it away without it tearing the fibers or being driven into the pores.
Also I try and use as little glue as possible, so I minimize squeezeout
David Giles
11-09-2007, 9:49 AM
My current practice is to prefinish everything with a base coat of shellac sanded smooth. For drawer bottoms, I'll usually shellac and sand the entire 4x8 sheet at one time. Gluing surfaces get a light sanding with 120 grit to remove the shellac. 4-5 swipes. Any squeeze-out is wiped away immediately with LOTS of wet paper towels. The shellac protects the wood from the water and glue contamination. After everything dries, I touchup the shellac base coat (if needed). Then move on to whatever topcoats are desired.
It's kind of a pain to sand the gluing surfaces. But a jig that rides on the board edge controls the sanding width. And it's faster and less frustrating to me than dealing with dried up squeezeout.
Jim Becker
11-09-2007, 10:10 AM
One additional note...assuming you're using some form of PVA (Titebond, etc), time things so you can remove any squeeze-out (you can never completely avoid it...) about 30-40 minutes after assembly. It will still be pliable at that point and a LOT easier to get off with a simple scraper or blade than it will be once it cures.
Bill Huber
11-09-2007, 10:32 AM
One additional note...assuming you're using some form of PVA (Titebond, etc), time things so you can remove any squeeze-out (you can never completely avoid it...) about 30-40 minutes after assembly. It will still be pliable at that point and a LOT easier to get off with a simple scraper or blade than it will be once it cures.
That is the way I have found to do it and it works very well.
I also have the scrapper from Woodcraft that is great but for little things that I can not get it into I have some dental tools that I got someplace and I use them to get that little bit right in the corner.
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