Building crosscut sled - question pls

[Matt P]

Hi,

I'm going to buy materials:

a) Should I use MDF or Baltic Birch plywood?
b) 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" thick?

(I will use oak for the runners)

Thanks in advance,
Matt

[Jeremy Chisholm]

Though you sacrifice a bit in cutting height, I'd go with 3/4. That way you can countersink holes to bolt your fence through the bottom of the sled...thinner than 3/4 and it gets a bit dicey...unless you're planning a different means of fence attachment.

[Mike Golka]

I agree with Jeremy 3/4" MDF, it is very stable. Wax the bottom with furniture wax and it'll slide real nice.

[Matt P]

MDF or plywood Jeremy?


Though you sacrifice a bit in cutting height, I'd go with 3/4. That way you can countersink holes to bolt your fence through the bottom of the sled...thinner than 3/4 and it gets a bit dicey...unless you're planning a different means of fence attachment.

[Jeremy Chisholm]

I used bb ply because it's what I had on hand when I built mine...I imagine either would work.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Matt

I used 3/4" Melamine

Please have a look at this post to see the way I made it (step-by-stap) and maybe it will give you some ideas...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=64448

Regards
niki

[Danny Thompson]

Mine is a 2' x 4' sheet of 1/2" MDF for the base, 2 laminated strips of 3/4" Melamine for the fence attached from the bottom with countersunk screws, and maple runners. Works perfectly for me.

[Matt P]

Thanks Nissm - is that Melamine-covered particle board, or solid melamine?

p.s. your how-to posts are outstanding!!
matt



Hi Matt

I used 3/4" Melamine

Please have a look at this post to see the way I made it (step-by-stap) and maybe it will give you some ideas...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=64448

Regards
niki

[Dan Oelke]

Go for the BB ply - it is a lot lighter to take on and off the table than MDF. You are more likely to grab it then rather than the lighter weight but not as accurate or safe miter gage.

Mine - it's a scrap of 1/2" BC plywood I had laying around and has worked really well.

[glenn bradley]

MDF or plywood Jeremy?

Not Jeremy but, either would work. If it is a small sled, no problem. If it is going to be 24" x 36" or so, BB ply is lighter. I used 3/4".

"Regular" sized one shown here with a link to the larger one:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=53569

[Bill Huber]

I have a small one and just used 1/2 MDF....

No matter what you use just make sure that you put the thumb box on the front side of it.

I am not sure what the real name of it is but it is a box so you can not get your thumb in front of the blade.
I did not have one on mine to start but added it very soon after using it a few times.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Matt

Yes, it is Melamine-covered particle board

Small tip; if you want your sled to be even more "slippery", you can "Iron-on" those plastic edge bands...two, one on each side, midway between the blade and the miter slot and two, one on each side, near the edge of the sled.

The plastic bands, beside being very slippery, are reducing the contact area between the sled and the table and by that, reducing the drag.

Regards
niki

[Matt P]

Does anyone have a picture of this "thumb box?"
tx,
Matt


I have a small one and just used 1/2 MDF....

No matter what you use just make sure that you put the thumb box on the front side of it.

I am not sure what the real name of it is but it is a box so you can not get your thumb in front of the blade.
I did not have one on mine to start but added it very soon after using it a few times.

[Jeremy Chisholm]

just a chunk of scrap, I actually have two (one on each side of the kerf) glued or screwed etc. to the back fence. Train yourself to always keep your hand on the outside of the block, you'll never have a digit in front of the blade...

[glenn bradley]

I use a "dummy block" (same purpose) its the block at the rear center of the fence that the blade buries into (as opposed to your thumb):

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59692&d=1173332187

[Matt P]

Thanks Glenn - can you tell where you got the plastic kerf "insert" for your crosscut sled in the picture?


I use a "dummy block" (same purpose) its the block at the rear center of the fence that the blade buries into (as opposed to your thumb):

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59692&d=1173332187

[Bill Huber]

Here is the one I put on my little slide, its not much but it does the job. It is just long enough that I can not put my thumb over the end of it.

I am not sure where Glenn got his rails but you can get some here.

http://www.ttrackusa.com/mitertrack.html



74870

[Ed Jolin]

Ditto what others said re: weight. I built a "bigger is better" sled and I rarely use it because it's too heavy. I finally built a nice small one and that's the one I reach for. Now I have a monster sled that I never use and gets in the way in my shop, but I hate to get rid of it because I spent so much time on it! One of these days I'll recycle it into another project.
-ed

[glenn bradley]

Thanks Glenn - can you tell where you got the plastic kerf "insert" for your crosscut sled in the picture?

The ZCI is 1/4" hardboard with melamine. I use this for the strip down the middle and for the rear fence "plate". Great for visibility. It can be picked up at most BORG's and certainly at any good lumber yard.

Not expensive and even a half sheet will make you a dozen replacements. Speaking of which, when you are making them, make a bunch. It is so much easier to just reach over and grab a spare instead of stopping what you are doing to make one while your in mid-project.

If you meant the UHMW miter rails, I have used oak (paste waxed) and UHMW. Both work great. UHMW is available at Rockler, Woodpeckers, etc. but, your local plastic supplier may be cheaper. Shop around, I have found the price on UHMW can vary as much as 50%.