Edge Banding Router Bit Sets

[Bill Huber]

I planning out a project for the future and will be using walnut plywood and I will need to do something with the edges.
I have been looking at this edge banding router bit set and would like to know if anyone is or has used them.
They look very neat and I think they would do a really great job on my up coming project.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product.asp?pn=100-9015F

Photo From Eagle America's site.

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[frank shic]

the only edgeband i use is either solid wood or thin PVC. the router bits seem like they would only complicate the entire fabrication process more.

[Christof Grohs]

the only edgeband i use is either solid wood or thin PVC. the router bits seem like they would only complicate the entire fabrication process more.


I've found the opposite to be true. Turning your edge stock 90 degrees before milling allows you proper grain orientation for the look of a solid panel. The joint is hidden on the leading edges unlike attaching, lets say 1/4" thick square edge banding. This edge treatment is far more durable than a strip of veneer and the profile makes attaching the edge stock a breeze.

[Bill Huber]

I've found the opposite to be true. Turning your edge stock 90 degrees before milling allows you proper grain orientation for the look of a solid panel. The joint is hidden on the leading edges unlike attaching, lets say 1/4" thick square edge banding. This edge treatment is far more durable than a strip of veneer and the profile makes attaching the edge stock a breeze.


That is what I was thinking and I think it would be really strong also.

With the router set, the B style, it would be very strong and would never come loose.

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[Eric Haycraft]

I haven't used them, but Infinity has basically the same thing for a little less $$ and I really like the infinity bits in general. Rockler has a different style of the same concept too.

http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1301

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11238

[John Keane]

Bill I use the exact set that you show in a follow on thread. 1st: they work great; 2nd you have to mill/plane your stock to the same thickness as the plywood or skin close; 3rd: test hop to ensure that plywood cut is exactly centered; 4th: ensure that the face board is cut exactly in the center. Make absolutely sure that the plywood and face wood cuts are true. Cut the miters to fit and then glue it up for a really neat piece of work. There are a lot of operations, and it takes time but the results are worth the effort. I consider myself a journeyman woodworker. It just takes time and patience, and more than a few test cuts. The results are worth it. Once it is setup, you can run all day.

[Brian Gumpper]

I have customers ask me for these now and again and I always ask "what's wrong with a tongue and groove set?" I see the advantage of the idea but seems like there's a set for everything when some tasks can be done in other ways with existing tooling.

Most guys I know still use biscuits or just glue them on without any groove. For strength, I would go with a T&G and an underhand if you don't mind the thicker edge.

[Bill Huber]

I haven't used them, but Infinity has basically the same thing for a little less $$ and I really like the infinity bits in general. Rockler has a different style of the same concept too.

http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1301

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11238


Those are cheaper and that is one bit I am sure I won't use every day.

Thanks for the heads up.

[Bill Huber]

I have customers ask me for these now and again and I always ask "what's wrong with a tongue and groove set?" I see the advantage of the idea but seems like there's a set for everything when some tasks can be done in other ways with existing tooling.

Most guys I know still use biscuits or just glue them on without any groove. For strength, I would go with a T&G and an underhand if you don't mind the thicker edge.

I guess when you look at it that is all it is, a T&G with a bevel. So a T&G would be a lot easier to do.

Thanks... you may have just save me some money.

[John Keane]

Actually I think that T/G is easier and the end result is every bit as good.