what are the advantages of owning a band saw?

[aurelio alarcon]

Other than using a large band saw for re-sawing what are the advantages of owning a small band saw? What can it do that a jig saw cannnot?

[Todd Burch]

Hi Aurelio.

You can cut much smaller pieces with a band saw, and cut much faster too. Your work is more visible with a band saw, so following a line is easier. You can stack cut with a band saw, and that would be difficult with a jig saw. Cuts through thicker material or better suited for a band saw. Most (not all) jig saws allow the blade to wander, so curved cuts will not be at 90°. A band saw will generally produce a straighter cut on a curve.

However, no internal cuts can be made with a band saw, and it's certainly not as portable as a jig saw.

[Mark Singer]

It is a very low impact , friendly machine to use. It is much safer than a tablesaw , especially with small pieces. I make architectural models and the bandsaw is very versitile and allows me to quickly scale small pieces that would be impossible to cut by other means. It will cut curves and resaw. I use it more than the tablesaw...it is very good for joinery.

[aurelio alarcon]

Hi Todd and Mark. You both make very good and eye opening points! I can certainly see the benefits to owning a band saw now. So here's my second question, I can afford a small band saw but not a large one at this time, should I wait and save for a larger one or get the small 9 inch band saw? If I wait, it would be at least a year. I guess this question also pivits on how much I would use one as well as afordability.

[Mark Singer]

A 14" Delta or Jet is a nice size that you will be happy with for years. It is about a $450 item. I would try to start with that level of bandsaw. Otherwise you will feel limited and want to upgrade very quickly.

[Glenn Clabo]

Aurelio,
I once worked in a shop that used a bandsaw far more than a table saw. A bandsaw and routers did about everything.
I waited for the right time and cost to get one that would do everything I wanted to do. Ultimately it was a good resaw ability and reviews that got me to a Grizzly 17". I'm glad I waited.

[Lee Schierer]

Try cutting a curve on your table saw. If any of your work requires curves, then a bandsaw is what you need. Also there are times when you need to resaw something.

I would suggest a 14" saw as well. Smaller ones are just too limited in capacity to be very useful. You can get a good 14" saw for about $400. If you watch the local paper, you can probably find one for sale. Just be sure that you buy one that has parts available from a reputable dealer.

[Greg Heppeard]

I agree, a good quality 14" is a good starter...you can always add a riser block at a point when you decide you need it. I suggest checking blade availability if you by an off brand saw...some of these have a blade size that is difficult to find

[David Hayes]

Hi Todd and Mark. You both make very good and eye opening points! I can certainly see the benefits to owning a band saw now. So here's my second question, I can afford a small band saw but not a large one at this time, should I wait and save for a larger one or get the small 9 inch band saw? If I wait, it would be at least a year. I guess this question also pivits on how much I would use one as well as afordability.

If the type of work you want to do with a bandsaw can wait - WAIT. I started with a 9" and was quickly frustrated. I replaced it with a 14" Jet and couldn't be happier! Frustrations with the 9" were low power, hard to track, 9" throat limiting what I wanted to do - cutting curves, and a few others that the 14" have made me forget.

Essentially, you would be tossing out around $100 now and then another $450 or so in a year. You could possibly sell the 9" later - that is what I did.

Dave

[Herb Kelley]

If I could have only one power tool in my shop, it would be a band saw.
Safer than a table saw (no kick back) and more versatile.
Buying a tool that you can afford but will outgrow is not good economics. The tool will frustrate you and you will loose money on the resale. If you can wait, do some searches for bandsaws on this and other woodworking boards. Make a list of the saws that sound good to you. Then hit the road and if possible physically check them out. A 14" is a good starter saw. And buy good blades. Good luck on your tool hunt, they are always fun.

[Julie Wright]

You can cut bowl blanks, resaw thick boards, ITS SAFER!!!

[Dennis Peacock]

Hi Todd and Mark. You both make very good and eye opening points! I can certainly see the benefits to owning a band saw now. So here's my second question, I can afford a small band saw but not a large one at this time, should I wait and save for a larger one or get the small 9 inch band saw? If I wait, it would be at least a year. I guess this question also pivits on how much I would use one as well as afordability.

Aurelio.....

You don't HAVE to wait another year. Dude....do like I did and over a 3 month period...."odd job" it a couple of times each month. If you only made $50 from each odd job...over 3 months that would be an additional $300 to add to your already limited budget and then order you a 14" BS. You will be glad you did.

This is not law....just what I did to get a few tools for my shop. :D

[Dan Bussiere]

A few years ago, when I first started woodworking as a hobby, I bought a 9 in Craftsman bandsaw thinking it would do everything I would need. I thought I would only be building bird houses, etc. Well after a year I was so frustrated with the cheap little bandsaw that wouldn't cut straight that I wouldn't start projects that required a good bandsaw. I was limited by the equipment and my ability to grow beyond the birdhouse stage was reduced. I ended up buying a Delta 14 in and I have since grown in my woodworking skills because of it. I kept the old 9 in for a year to use for small cuts, but I never did turn it on again. I finally gave it away and just lost the $100 it cost me. Save the money and get a good one. I learned from this experience and now I will not buy any equipment unless it is what I would upgrade to anyway.
Dan

[Kurt Aebi]

Wait and save up for a good bandsaw. If you want to cut small intricate things, get yourself a scrollsaw and do the fancy small tight turn style cuts with it. Getting a small bandsaw will drive you nuts. I bought one of those 3 wheel jobs and can't hardly do anything with it. I have 3 scrollsaws and use each of them more than I do the bandsaw. I am saving up right now for a big Griz or Mini-Max - most likely a 17 incher.

Save yourself the headache, you'll use a cheap scrollsaw more than a cheap bandsaw. If you want a $100.00 small stuff cutter - get a 16" Dremel, Ryobi or Craftsman Scroll-saw.

Kurt

[aurelio alarcon]

I will wait and and save enough money to get a large band saw. From what I gather the minimum that I should be looking at is a 14 inch. I will do some odd jobs and save from those a little money each time and get the large model. Hell, I might even go bigger. Who knows. I like what Dan said when he says that he would not buy anything unless it is what he would upgrade to to begin with. I will try to quell my burning pocket until then. I know it is better this way, but oh so hard.

[Rich Tesoroni]

A couple of months ago I was at a local estate sale and there was a little (10" or 12") sawsmith (or something like that) bandsaw. It was green and pretty solid feeling. Almost bought it as an extra, but it went for $30.

Have you looked at any of the older small bandsaws (the one's made of all metal)? The $99 ones at the orange box look like toys.

Rich

[aurelio alarcon]

A couple of months ago I was at a local estate sale and there was a little (10" or 12") sawsmith (or something like that) bandsaw. It was green and pretty solid feeling. Almost bought it as an extra, but it went for $30.

Have you looked at any of the older small bandsaws (the one's made of all metal)? The $99 ones at the orange box look like toys.

Rich
I will definetly look into that. Maybe I can find an old used one close by.

[john williams]

I will wait and and save enough money to get a large band saw. From what I gather the minimum that I should be looking at is a 14 inch. I will do some odd jobs and save from those a little money each time and get the large model. Hell, I might even go bigger. Who knows. I like what Dan said when he says that he would not buy anything unless it is what he would upgrade to to begin with. I will try to quell my burning pocket until then. I know it is better this way, but oh so hard.
I bought a Harbor Freight 14" a year ago and for the money it can't be beat.

john

[Lloyd Robins]

Take a gander at John Miliuna's new bandsaw on his thread. It makes my little Jet look like a toy. There is a lot of saving involved in buy that type of "toy."

[aurelio alarcon]

Take a gander at John Miliuna's new bandsaw on his thread. It makes my little Jet look like a toy. There is a lot of saving involved in buy that type of "toy."
I saw that beauty! I'm jealous to say the least!

[aurelio alarcon]

I bought a Harbor Freight 14" a year ago and for the money it can't be beat.

john
Don't know much about them. Expensive?

[James Carmichael]

Don't know much about them. Expensive?

Great thread, after a false start in setting up shop with a Craftsman TS (which I returned to Sears for a full refund!) I've been wondering whether a TS or BS would be more useful. Found I could do almost everything I needed from the TS with my circ saw, straight edge, and my PC 7529 router (by far the better of my two purchases), so I found Glen's comments interesting.

Aurelio,

Most anything from HF is dirt cheap. Their power tool brand is Chicago Electric which I believe is imported from China. I've read either here or at another forum that the HF BS is a bear to setup. But you might be able to find a 14" there that's within your budget. Do a forum search on it, I'm sure there's some members here who have experience with the HF BS.

[Wolf Kiessling]

I will wait and and save enough money to get a large band saw. From what I gather the minimum that I should be looking at is a 14 inch. I will do some odd jobs and save from those a little money each time and get the large model. Hell, I might even go bigger. Who knows. I like what Dan said when he says that he would not buy anything unless it is what he would upgrade to to begin with. I will try to quell my burning pocket until then. I know it is better this way, but oh so hard.

I would like you to consider a couple more things, Aurelio, before you actually plunk down some money for a bandsaw. First of all, I want to say that I agree with the concept of buying a saw no smaller than 14". Then, on top of that, here are a couple of things to consider, especially if you are going to wait awhile to make the purchase. You might hear that you can always buy a riser block if you eventually need a larger size than the 14". That may not always be a good idea. Usually, a bandsaw is powered to allow the efficient cutting of the size wood it is designed to handle; for example, my Delta 14" BS is powered by a 3/4 hp motor. I had thought about installing a riser block that would enable me to cut bowl blanks thicker than 6" which is all the saw is able to handle under it's present configuration. After much consideration and advice from some others, I opted not to put in the riser block because the 3/4 hp motor would probably be inadequate to handle the 12" blanks the new configuration would allow without also replacing the 3/4 hp motor with at least a 1 or 1.5 hp. I figured I might as well replace the whole bs instead of going though all this. The point is, if you purchase a bs knowing full well that it might be inadequate to handle your needs, but you can always install a riser block, wait a while longer and buy a bigger bandsaw. The other thing, consider the brand of the bandsaw and make sure it will handle the size blades you will be using. For example: I can tension a 3/4" blade, which I use for resawing, with my 14" Delta but I have been informed that you can not tension that size blade with a 14" Jet. Make sure you know what you will be using this saw for and buy accordingly.

[aurelio alarcon]

Great thread, after a false start in setting up shop with a Craftsman TS (which I returned to Sears for a full refund!) I've been wondering whether a TS or BS would be more useful. Found I could do almost everything I needed from the TS with my circ saw, straight edge, and my PC 7529 router (by far the better of my two purchases), so I found Glen's comments interesting.

Aurelio,

Most anything from HF is dirt cheap. Their power tool brand is Chicago Electric which I believe is imported from China. I've read either here or at another forum that the HF BS is a bear to setup. But you might be able to find a 14" there that's within your budget. Do a forum search on it, I'm sure there's some members here who have experience with the HF BS.
Thanks, I will check into that. By the way, I have a lot of power tools, and among my Porter Cable, Makita, Bosch and DeWalt, to name a few, are some very reliable Craftsman tools as well.

[aurelio alarcon]

I would like you to consider a couple more things, Aurelio, before you actually plunk down some money for a bandsaw. First of all, I want to say that I agree with the concept of buying a saw no smaller than 14". Then, on top of that, here are a couple of things to consider, especially if you are going to wait awhile to make the purchase. You might hear that you can always buy a riser block if you eventually need a larger size than the 14". That may not always be a good idea. Usually, a bandsaw is powered to allow the efficient cutting of the size wood it is designed to handle; for example, my Delta 14" BS is powered by a 3/4 hp motor. I had thought about installing a riser block that would enable me to cut bowl blanks thicker than 6" which is all the saw is able to handle under it's present configuration. After much consideration and advice from some others, I opted not to put in the riser block because the 3/4 hp motor would probably be inadequate to handle the 12" blanks the new configuration would allow without also replacing the 3/4 hp motor with at least a 1 or 1.5 hp. I figured I might as well replace the whole bs instead of going though all this. The point is, if you purchase a bs knowing full well that it might be inadequate to handle your needs, but you can always install a riser block, wait a while longer and buy a bigger bandsaw. The other thing, consider the brand of the bandsaw and make sure it will handle the size blades you will be using. For example: I can tension a 3/4" blade, which I use for resawing, with my 14" Delta but I have been informed that you can not tension that size blade with a 14" Jet. Make sure you know what you will be using this saw for and buy accordingly.
I will keep all of this in mind. I have decided to take my time and make an informed decision when I finally do plunk down some money. I really don't want to have to upgrade right away. I would like to purchase what I would have upgraded to in the first place.

[Chris Padilla]

Check out my post in the Design Forum titled Floating Maple TV Shelf for a good reason why I wish I had a bandsaw! I think it would have saved me a lot of time. :)

[aurelio alarcon]

Check out my post in the Design Forum titled Floating Maple TV Shelf for a good reason why I wish I had a bandsaw! I think it would have saved me a lot of time. :)
tell me about that up and down bit that you used. I have been looking for an all purpose bit with a 1/4 inch shaft for my router and my cutting tool. I found one but not sure if it's the right one or not. Additionally, what is the difference between the up or down ? I know that that has to do with the shavings but which is best for which application?

[Chris Padilla]

Aurelio,

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=214

This shows upcut bits and it shows downcut bits and give a bit of an explanation about each one. The reason they are so expensive? They are PURE 100% carbide! :)

Here is a blurb about up/down spiral bits:

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=140

I have the 1/2" by 1 5/8" one but I am almost certain I paid under $100 for it. I can't imagine I would have forked out $135 for this bit....maybe I have the 1 1/8" bit...not sure.

[aurelio alarcon]

Aurelio,

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=214

This shows upcut bits and it shows downcut bits and give a bit of an explanation about each one. The reason they are so expensive? They are PURE 100% carbide! :)

Here is a blurb about up/down spiral bits:

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=140

I have the 1/2" by 1 5/8" one but I am almost certain I paid under $100 for it. I can't imagine I would have forked out $135 for this bit....maybe I have the 1 1/8" bit...not sure.
thanks Chris

[David Rose]

For 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2" sizes I use carbide two flute end mills. You can get nice long lengths for much less.

David


Aurelio,

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=214

This shows upcut bits and it shows downcut bits and give a bit of an explanation about each one. The reason they are so expensive? They are PURE 100% carbide! :)

Here is a blurb about up/down spiral bits:

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=140

I have the 1/2" by 1 5/8" one but I am almost certain I paid under $100 for it. I can't imagine I would have forked out $135 for this bit....maybe I have the 1 1/8" bit...not sure.

[Mike Wilkins]

I recently cut and prepared some warped lumber before running it on the
jointer. Cupped in 2 directions and twisted. I did'nt even look at the
table saw to begin preparing this lumber. The band saw is the only
machine, other than hand sawing, that can safely cut some crazy wood
like this.
With the table saw, there would have been too much potential for some
serious kickback. I have experienced kickback, and it is no fun.
With a sharp blade and good fence arrangement, you could even use
the bandsaw for all your ripping needs. Get your hands on 1 or 2 of the
bandsaw books out there for ideas on how to get the most from these
versatile tools.
You will find it is one of the most-used machines in the shop.
Good luck and watch those fingers.

[aurelio alarcon]

For 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2" sizes I use carbide two flute end mills. You can get nice long lengths for much less.

David
I did notice that the first ones that you left a link for were out of my price range at this time. I will look into the less expensive ones. Again, thanks a lot!

[aurelio alarcon]

I recently cut and prepared some warped lumber before running it on the
jointer. Cupped in 2 directions and twisted. I did'nt even look at the
table saw to begin preparing this lumber. The band saw is the only
machine, other than hand sawing, that can safely cut some crazy wood
like this.
With the table saw, there would have been too much potential for some
serious kickback. I have experienced kickback, and it is no fun.
With a sharp blade and good fence arrangement, you could even use
the bandsaw for all your ripping needs. Get your hands on 1 or 2 of the
bandsaw books out there for ideas on how to get the most from these
versatile tools.
You will find it is one of the most-used machines in the shop.
Good luck and watch those fingers.
get a book on bandsaws just as you advise. Now I'm wondering if I should have gotten a bandsaw instead of a table saw in the first place. I didn't invest a lot in a table saw anyways. I will invest more on a good bandsaw, and later I will invest in a better table saw. This way I will have two excellent saws.

[aurelio alarcon]

For 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2" sizes I use carbide two flute end mills. You can get nice long lengths for much less.

DavidThanks David! I will check into those as well.

[Chris Padilla]

For 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2" sizes I use carbide two flute end mills. You can get nice long lengths for much less.

David

David,

That is interesting. I never thought about metal working "bits" to use on wood. Works well, I guess? Am I reading you correctly?

Thanks