PDA

View Full Version : Handwashing without a sink--after sharpening



Jameel Abraham
11-06-2007, 5:53 PM
I feel a bit stupid asking this, but thought you galoots might learn me something new. :)

I've been using waterstones since the begininng of my woodworking, but have never had a sink in the shop. After a sharpening session I'm always left with black fingers, even after a short session or touch-up. Just can't wash this off properly w/o hot and soapy water. And working with light woods, especially soundboards in luthiery, can spell trouble.

So how are you guys and gals without sinks dealing with this?

Michael Hammers
11-06-2007, 6:00 PM
Scrubs. Grainger # 1cg47. They work great...also great for camping:D

Lewis Moon
11-06-2007, 6:03 PM
I feel a bit stupid asking this, but thought you galoots might learn me something new. :)

I've been using waterstones since the begininng of my woodworking, but have never had a sink in the shop. After a sharpening session I'm always left with black fingers, even after a short session or touch-up. Just can't wash this off properly w/o hot and soapy water. And working with light woods, especially soundboards in luthiery, can spell trouble.

So how are you guys and gals without sinks dealing with this?

Not to mention staining oak! :eek: I'm interested in this too but I'm also worried about the residue from whatever product is used. Do the alcohol gels work?

Sean Kinn
11-06-2007, 6:50 PM
Why not just sharpen next to the kitchen sink or in the bathroom? That's what I do. I just put down several old magazines to protect the surface, then go to town. I keep the water in the sink running on low for quick rinsing of the plane iron, chisels or sandpaper (I'm using the scary sharp method, and use a piece of granite tile as my flat surface). You could even do all of your work in an old cake pan or something to really protect the countertops.

Jamie Buxton
11-06-2007, 6:50 PM
How 'bout thin disposable gloves? I use 'em all the time in the shop, and can use a pair for weeks without throwing them away. I like the nitrile rubber kind because they withstand paint thinner better than latex.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-4083&PMPXNO=946463&PARTPG=INLMK32

Doug Shepard
11-06-2007, 8:32 PM
GoJo works for me. My water in the shop has to be shut off from late October thru early April which can be a pain. You can usually find the GoJo at Auto parts stores.

Marcus Ward
11-06-2007, 9:34 PM
I've been using Zep Clean 'Ems Hand Cleaner Towels. We keep them at work for when we get toner on our hands and they do a great job getting the nasty sharpening goo off (Exactly the reason I got some). They have some lotion in them that keeps your hands from turning all alligator too. I haven't had any problems with finishes after using them either. They come in a container like those diaper wipes or whatever they are that are used on babies. Product # 1410 because apparently they make a ton of stuff under the cleanems name.

BEN SHELTON
11-07-2007, 6:04 AM
I'll second the nitrile gloves. I love them.

Pam Niedermayer
11-07-2007, 7:40 AM
Marcus, not even the Zep site lists Clean'ems. Where do you buy these?

All, gloves are great for a lot of things; but I find that when sharpening, the fingers get torn up pretty quickly, what with all that pressing on the bevel and rubbing the blade on stones.

Pam

Lewis Moon
11-07-2007, 8:25 AM
Marcus, not even the Zep site lists Clean'ems. Where do you buy these?

All, gloves are great for a lot of things; but I find that when sharpening, the fingers get torn up pretty quickly, what with all that pressing on the bevel and rubbing the blade on stones.

Pam

To a certain extent, sharpening is also a tactile experience. Without gloves it's easier to feel the "wire" and a quick brush across my thumb print will tell me how the shaping of the edge is progressing.
When I'm sharpening I want all of the input I can get; strong light, magnifying glass and ungloved fingers.

Marcus Ward
11-07-2007, 9:08 AM
If you go to zep, click products, in the search for box put 1410 and pull down the box and select product number, it'll come up. That's the only way I could find it on their site too. They'll remove darn near anything you're likely to get on your hand in a woodworking shop, including varnish and uncured epoxy. I don't know where we get them here, our shop guys order them for us.

Jameel Abraham
11-07-2007, 9:11 AM
Great tips everybody! Thanks.

Richard Niemiec
11-07-2007, 9:24 AM
I use a spritz of Windex or Murphy's Oil Soap and then wipe off with Walmart Baby Wipes. A box of baby wipes come in handy a lot, pre moistened, relatively thick, soft and of course cheap. RN

lowell holmes
11-07-2007, 2:12 PM
I find that walnut, mesquite, and oak will leave a purple stain on my hands. If you wash your hands using real lemon and water or lemon juice and water, it will clean right off. I keep a gallon of water in the shop for varius uses, you can reinse your hands into a bucket and take care of it.

Preston Baxter
11-07-2007, 5:00 PM
I started out using waterstones because this was what all of the new books and magazines advertised as being faster and cleaner. I bought a full set of Norton waterstones and always dreaded sharpening time. The stones wore away fast requiring frequent flattening, and the nasty black mess soaked into my fingers turning them into prunes.

I learned about sharpening with oilstones on Joel's Museum of Woodworking Tools site. I got 2 good Norton oilstones, a Medium India and Hard Arkansas and wow! what a difference. Sure, they work a little slower, but seldom require flattening. Highly refined honing oil will not soak into to skin like water. After sharpening, simply wipe off the tool and your fingers with a rag or paper towel. No more mess and no rust.

Rick Gifford
11-07-2007, 5:51 PM
I use the nitrile gloves for staining etc. They work great for most anything where you want your hands to stay clean. I also use the gloves when applying CA to pens on the lathe. Better to have the glue grab hold of the glove then my skin while turning!

Ken Garlock
11-07-2007, 6:08 PM
I use the nitrile gloves for staining etc. They work great for most anything where you want your hands to stay clean. I also use the gloves when applying CA to pens on the lathe. Better to have the glue grab hold of the glove then my skin while turning!

I second the nitrile gloves. I buy them in a tub of 500 from Gemplers.:cool:

Bob Noles
11-07-2007, 8:05 PM
I keep baby wipes on my work bench and they take care of most anything I have had to deal with so far. What they don't get the Gojo does.

Kevin French
11-07-2007, 8:58 PM
WD 40 and a Rag. Try it, you'll like it. AND you already have it.

Sean Kinn
11-08-2007, 9:31 AM
WD 40 and a Rag. Try it, you'll like it. AND you already have it.

Amen. I should have mentioned that that's what I use too. The particles get suspended in the WD, and cleanup is a snap.

Marcus Ward
11-08-2007, 9:56 AM
The MSDS for WD-40 says:

Skin Contact: Prolonged and/or repeated contact may produce mild irritation and defatting with possible dermatitis. Wash with soap and water. If irritation develops and persists, get medical attention. Wear chemical resistant gloves.

Just an FYI.