Biesemeyer on Jet? Bad Xacta Fence design

[Jay Albrandt]

Hello All,

Lots of Biesemeyer posts to search through, so I thought I would just ask.

There is a serious design flaw with my Jet Xacta Fence and I am tired of dealing with it. Has anyone put a Biesemeyer fence on a Jet cabinet saw? And is it readily compatible or does it require any modifications to mount the rails?

Thanks a bunch.

Jay

[Yance Kudzu]

I have one on mine, if I remember correctly only 2 of the holes lined up, so I had to drill a couple of holes in the saw. I was really apprehensive, but it turned out to be a piece of cake.

[Deck Reagan]

Jay,
I have the xacta fence on my jet table saw. I just bought the saw and have not really used it yet. I also have a Bies hiding in the corner for a special occasion.

What don't you like about the Xacta fence?

Deck

[Jay Albrandt]

Hi Deck,

My saw is about 5-6 years old. I brought this to Jet's attention as soon as I learned of the problem so hopefully they fixed it since then. Sorry, I would include pictures but my digital camera is being fixed right now.

However, on my fence there are two small squares of high density nylon that act as anti-friction points between the fence and rail. Look in your fence owners manual and you will see that they correspond with the adjustments for "square to miter slot". These squares fell off within a month of use. I replaced them with a strip of the same material adhered with the best two sided tape I could find. Even with the material and tape covering the entire length of the base, it migrates and comes off due to the cam action clamping mechanism of the fence. I've tried all kinds of glue, but nothing bonds to the high density nylon. My next fix would be to drill and countersink holes in the fence base and screw thicker replacement material to it. The problem being that the nylon can't be too thick otherwise the fence won't sit over the rail, and there might not be enough material to screw into.

If you look at the biesemeyer fence, there are two small "buds" of nylon that are mounted securely THROUGH the fence base. Unless Jet fixed their problem, save yourself a lot of aggravation and mount the biesemeyer fence.

Hope this helps and thanks for your reply.

J

[Jim Becker]

Prior to the Xacta fence being shipped with the Jet cabinet saws, they came with Biesemeyer fences. (This was before Biesemeyer was acquired by the same folks who then owned Delta) There should be no issue putting a "real" Biesemeyer fence on a Jet saw or any other saw for that matter outside of maybe needing to relocate a mounting hole or three, depending on the machine.

[Deck Reagan]

Jay,
I have the same freaking problem! I am assuming it's the pads in the pics below. Did Jet offer to correct the problem? Their CS is great. I haven't called them yet. Something tells me they fixed this on the Xacta II.

deck

74781

74782

[Bruce Wrenn]

Buy replacement glide pads from Bies/ Delta. Bies part # is 1350051. They use a #15 drill for mounting stud holes. Holes are 1" OC. Take a scrap of 1/4 X 1" steel and drill, using drill press. Clamp to head of fence and using steel as a drill guide, drill through steel. Pads press into place, using a "C" clamp. You could also do as original Bies. did and use "Formica" for glide pads. Go to borg and pick up some of those little samples and cut pieces that are 1" X 2". Glue to bar with contact cement. I have used both methods on my Bies. clones.

[Jay Albrandt]

Deck,

Those are it, although my fence doesn't have one on the locking cam, just the "T" section that slides on the rail. I emailed Jet and they got right back to me. They are sending me some replacement pieces of nylon and suggested that I try "rear view mirror" adhesive. If that is what they use at the factory, the end result will be the same, but I appreciate their effort.

Your fence looks a little different than mine, see post to Bruce below.

[Jay Albrandt]

Bruce,

Great idea and suggestion. Only, I don't think it will work with my fence because the area that makes contact with the rails is a thin tab of metal that bends out with the pressure from the set screws that adjust the fence to square with the miter slot. There is very little tolerance to drill and pop in a biesemeyer stud, but, I will look into it later in the week and see.

Thanks again.

[Dave Lehnert]

I had the same problem with my saw as well as other things. The front rail was drilled wrong. My dealer offered me a Biesemeyer when each Jet fence sent for replacement was also defective. I took the upgrade Jet deluxe fence with micro adjustment. (Made by HTC) that solved my problem. The new fence is great but for some reason preferred the original one. Funny, the fence is made in the USA too.
I purchased my saw from a large dealer so I think that made the difference in what he was able to offer me for replacement. If I would have purchased it on-line or the like it would have been a huge hassle. He saw the problem, offered me a choice and told the Jet rep they would have to make good.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Bruce,

Great idea and suggestion. Only, I don't think it will work with my fence because the area that makes contact with the rails is a thin tab of metal that bends out with the pressure from the set screws that adjust the fence to square with the miter slot. There is very little tolerance to drill and pop in a biesemeyer stud, but, I will look into it later in the week and see.

Thanks again. Jay, the piece of metal you are refering to is 1/8" thick X 1" wide. This is standard on most of the Tee Square fences. You can back out set screw and slip a shim shingle under this bar before drilling. I've drilled a couple of the early ones I built. These originally had "formica " pads.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Jay - I had the same problem with my Jet fence. I called Jet and discussed it with them. They sent me new pads that were a different material. I removed the old pads, cleaned the metal, stuck the new pads on and they have been just fine for several years.

[Thom Sturgill]

Hi, new here, but this sounds disturbing. :eek:

I just bought a JET ProShop and am anxiously awaiting delivery. Should be here Monday. It lists as having a 'ProShop' fence and the review I read really liked the fence. I know they changed the face pieces and wonder if they fixed this problem. He indicated that it glided on the rounded over ends of some nubs, which does not sound quite like what you are describing.

[Mike Cutler]

Bruce,

Great idea and suggestion. Only, I don't think it will work with my fence because the area that makes contact with the rails is a thin tab of metal that bends out with the pressure from the set screws that adjust the fence to square with the miter slot. There is very little tolerance to drill and pop in a biesemeyer stud, but, I will look into it later in the week and see.

Thanks again.

Ahhh....... Now I see. You're right, this is a very bad design. My General 220 has the same bad design. I use my "Original Blue Xacta Fence" on both my Jet and the General.
The fence on the General is almost unusable because of this flaw, and the metal tabs being of such a poor steel that they don't have any spring in them to keep the pressure constant over extended periods.
.
The "Original Blue Xacta Fence" did not have the metal tabs with nylon pads that contacted the inside edge of the front rail. There are no metal tabs. The nylon set screw makes direct contact with the inside surface of the front rail.
A Beismeyer fence will fit just fine on your saw. I don't need to change rails on mine to use a 'Beis, but it's considerably older than yours.

[Chuck Bennett]

Hi,

Sorry guys, but this is my first "Post" on ANY Forum, so bear with me !!

I just purchased the Jet "ProShop" (dealer said this is one of three that is now in the US).

I ordered one from WoodCraft in Indy and was called by the Mgr to tell me it was backordered and that I might get in in late Jan of early Feb-08. They were supposed to be "quarentined" in Tiawan for quality checks.

Needless to say, I was a little put off, but the Mgr let me have the one on their showroom floor. They got this one after the WoodWorkers Show in Indianapolis this summer.

I just got it home yesterday and was trying to check alignment, etc. (this is the biggest/baddest table saw that I have ever owned -- I have been using a Craftsman table saw for non-woodworking jobs for a few years in my Laser engraving business).

Might be on here more often for tips, etc.

I have lots of questions and am seeking information on this saw, so I'll be checking posts quite a lot.

[matt norton]

I glued mine on with contact cement and they have been there for about 5 years with a lot of use and still holding strong. Jet sent me some with tabs on them but I didnt want to take the time to drill for them. Matt

[Andrew Nemeth]

Any of you guys with an xacta fence that you want to get rid of feel free to PM me, I could use one.

[Thomas Charles Williams]

Reviving a very old thread, I just ordered some 1/8 inch hdpe sheet that I'm going to try to glue to my xacta fence where it rides on rail. I'm going try some e6000 glue. I looked at a parts blow up online and it shows another pad on the bottom of the fence( where it rides on the saw top). Mine doesn't have a pad . Any idea if there's supposed to be one? how thick?

Thanks
Tom

[Thomas Charles Williams]

Reviving a very old thread, I just ordered some 1/8 inch hdpe sheet that I'm going to try to glue to my xacta fence where it rides on rail. I'm going try some e6000 glue. I looked at a parts blow up online and it shows another pad on the bottom of the fence( where it rides on the saw top). Mine doesn't have a pad . Any idea if there's supposed to be one? how thick?

Thanks
Tom

Scratch the e6000, probably use contact cement

[glenn bradley]

Reviving a very old thread, I just ordered some 1/8 inch hdpe sheet that I'm going to try to glue to my xacta fence where it rides on rail. I'm going try some e6000 glue. I looked at a parts blow up online and it shows another pad on the bottom of the fence( where it rides on the saw top). Mine doesn't have a pad . Any idea if there's supposed to be one? how thick?

Thanks
Tom

I agree with Andrew. E6000 is great for so many things but, remains somewhat flexible. Clean the HDPE and the underside of he fence tube with naphtha (lighter fluid (https://www.amazon.com/Ronson-ounce-Ronsonol-Lighter-Fuel/dp/B0017X1NGO?th=1)) or alcohol. Apply the contact cement (https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Basic-Crafts/Glues-Adhesives/Contact-Cement/p/26111?gclid=CjwKCAiAkfucBhBBEiwAFjbkr0LqM-G4j55h4oyPLBJ2ytRygpTLXw35v6bZM4I1_O2fD2Km31REhxoC 9gEQAvD_BwE) (I buy in small quantities as it goes south pretty quick) wait as per the directions and stick together. Apply pressure. Hand pressure is usually fine for small items; a spring clamp would be fine as well.

[Thomas Charles Williams]

Thanks for the reply, is there another friction pad further down the fence, or does it just ride on the hdpe rails? My saw top has some light scratches, probably just need to smooth off the bottom of the rails

[Patrick Varley]

I don't know the exact fence design, but if I'm thinking about what you're trying to do correctly, I use UHMW tape for similar applications. They also make a high bond version if you really want it on there (that's what I use to shim runners on sleds).

https://www.mcmaster.com/tape/low-friction-uhmw-tape-8

I don't think I've seen 1/8" thick on McMaster, but I suspect you could find it elsewhere.

[Thomas Charles Williams]

I don't know the exact fence design, but if I'm thinking about what you're trying to do correctly, I use UHMW tape for similar applications. They also make a high bond version if you really want it on there (that's what I use to shim runners on sleds).

https://www.mcmaster.com/tape/low-friction-uhmw-tape-8

I don't think I've seen 1/8" thick on McMaster, but I suspect you could find it elsewhere.


I'm just replacing with the thickness that was already on mine, only 1 of 2 is missing.It actually looks it's glued on with polyurethane. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow. I bought my saw well used, so no idea if these are factory. There is even a thinner strip of it glued on the cam lock surface. I emailed jpw today, but haven't heard back

Thanks again

[Thomas Charles Williams]

CanÂ’t figure out how to post pics( maybe I donÂ’t have enough posts). But my fence is xacta and not xacta2. And the little square of hdpe maybe held on with contact cement, but the strip on the clamping surface is almost certainly held on by polyurethane ( itÂ’s foamy), anyway a jwp rep is responding to my email

Thanks

[Thomas Charles Williams]

I'm just replacing with the thickness that was already on mine, only 1 of 2 is missing.It actually looks it's glued on with polyurethane. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow. I bought my saw well used, so no idea if these are factory. There is even a thinner strip of it glued on the cam lock surface. I emailed jpw today, but haven't heard back

Thanks again

Actually it's only 1/16 inch thick ( which is what I ordered). The tape might would be easier. I bought 2 12" x 12" sheets for $8 delivered, so I should have a lifetime supply

[Bruce Wrenn]

CanÂ’t figure out how to post pictures

ThanksBecome a contributor.

[Thomas Charles Williams]

I just got through reading that. Any way the jpw rep replied and said the pads were obsolete, suggested felt pads; but IÂ’ll try the contact cement for a while and if I get fed up IÂ’ll do the drill method

[Thomas Charles Williams]

Become a contributor.

I contributed, still can't upload pics

[Thomas Charles Williams]

I think I got it now. Had to clear cookies and cache and select "remember me" when logging in

[Mike Cutler]

Thanks for the reply, is there another friction pad further down the fence, or does it just ride on the hdpe rails? My saw top has some light scratches, probably just need to smooth off the bottom of the rails

This is a photo of an early 90’s Xacta fence. I bought the saw in 1993 new.
The pad is an 1/8” thick pad, and you can get them everywhere. There’s nothing exotic about them.

492115

As a caution to anyone upgrading their fence system, use counter sunk screws to attach the front “L” bracket. Do not use hex head bolts. You’ll only ever do it once.��
Those can really hurt your fingers when repositioning the fence.

[Thomas Charles Williams]

This is a photo of an early 90Â’s Xacta fence. I bought the saw in 1993 new.
The pad is an 1/8” thick pad, and you can get them everywhere. There’s nothing exotic about them.

492115

As a caution to anyone upgrading their fence system, use counter sunk screws to attach the front “L” bracket. Do not use hex head bolts. You’ll only ever do it once.��
Those can really hurt your fingers when repositioning the fence.



Thanks, I do not have the pad on the 21 inch mark. I put 2 newer pads on the clamp end, and used " rapidfuse" without the primer and it seems to be holding

Tom

[Thomas Charles Williams]

493456493455

[Thomas Charles Williams]

top is the after with the rapidfuse