Softening an edge

[Bill Bryant]

How do y'all go about softening an edge to the exact amount desired every time? When I complete a piece, sand all the flat surfaces, and then soften the sharp edges, I'm never sure if I did it too much or too little or not consistently on every edge. Are there tools that soften an edge an exact amount? What do y'all do?

[Jason Roehl]

There are small scrapers that can put a 1/16" radius on an edge in one quick pass...beats me where you might find one, though. I know a carpenter who told me about them years ago.

[frank shic]

these might help:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45501&cat=1,42524

[glenn bradley]

There are special tools for this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=5320&TabSelect=Details

I just use 220 or 320 grit paper (depending on the hardness of the wood) and very lightly stroke the edge till it feels right. Sometimes its more by touch than by sight because the ease is so slight. It's not rocket science necessarily. Take a stroke on a piece of scrap, if the paper is too aggressive, go finer.

[Gary Keedwell]

There are special tools for this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=5320&TabSelect=Details

I just use 220 or 320 grit paper (depending on the hardness of the wood) and very lightly stroke the edge till it feels right. Sometimes its more by touch than by sight because the ease is so slight. It's not rocket science necessarily. Take a stroke on a piece of scrap, if the paper is too aggressive, go finer.
I do the same with my sanding block which is now Preppin' Weapon.;)
Gary

[Todd Burch]

I work with wood, so I gave up on "exact" several years ago!

Aside from that:

For just breaking the arris, I'll use a piece of 150 grit paper in my hand, and do one or two very quick passes.
For a little more easing, a small #110 block plane works, followed by the above paper.
For even more easing, I use my Radii-planes.


Todd

[Jamie Buxton]

Sandpaper if I'm moving quickly, and don't mind a little variability in how much roundness there is. A 1/16" radius roundover bit in a small router does a more consistent job. Compared to the little roundover knives, it cares much less about grain direction.

[Neil Lamens]

Hi Bill:

When you say "softening" an edge, 220 grit and the pressure of my thumb. You're just trying to bust the sharp edge. More to hold your top coats of finish than anything else.

[Bill White]

I have a corner easing tool that I got from the now-defunct AMT years ago. The danged thing works. Looks like the Lee Valley thingy. Gotta make sure that you are aware of grain direction or you'll get some bad tear out.
Bill

[Jason Roehl]

these might help:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45501&cat=1,42524


Those are the ones, Frank!

[Jason Roehl]

BTW, Todd, I had to look up 'arris'--that's a new one on me. :D

[Jim Becker]

I don't really try for too much precision when softening edges as I generally am only trying to make them take finish better and not be so sharp that they hurt "a lot" when you bang into them...so I use a little 320 paper with two or three "swipes" along the edge to deal with it. But I generally build the Shaker-style where rounding over edges isn't necessarily the case. As stated, there are small scrapers available that will give you say, a 1/16" round-over if you want that. Larger than that, you can also use a router/trim router for the job.

[frank shic]

BTW, Todd, I had to look up 'arris'--that's a new one on me. :D

i just learned something new as well!

[Mark Singer]

You can use a card scraper...watch grain direction. Sandpaper is forgiving and works well....I use this block

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ezine/images/preppinweapeon.jpg

[Doug Shepard]

I've used 1/16" & 1/8" roundover bits, but usually just take a block plane to things then follow up with sandpaper. It's more therapeutic plus there's zero setup time and I think a bit of inconsistency is not all bad.

[Gary Keedwell]

You can use a card scraper...watch grain direction. Sandpaper is forgiving and works well....I use this block

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ezine/images/preppinweapeon.jpg
Mark....I have tried them all but for the last year or so I have been using the same block (preppin' weapon). Works real good and feels great in my hand. Also excels with wet sanding.
Gary

[Lee Schierer]

A good sharp hand plane will take off the same amount everytime. I built a edge beveling plane a couple of years ago from plans in a magazine (WOOD, I think) It does a nice job and was pretty easy to make. Just watch the grain direction.

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/bevelplane.jpg

A regular pocket size or miniature plane will work just as well held at 45 degrees.

[Todd Jensen]

Besides all of the recommendations for various sanding or tooling aids, my advice would be to practice, practice, practice. All of these items will help you achieve a consistent edge, but in the end your eye and practiced hand will be able to achieve the same thing with any of the above or a piece of sandpaper stuck to a block of flat oak.
Have fun with your project. :)

[Dave Watkins]

I favor block plane followed by sandpaper also (depending on the amount of softening desired). I don't try to achieve a perfectly uniform look, fine by me if they look hand-made (since they are). I do it all by feel, I don't count the number of swipes or anything like that, and it's amazing how consistant they come out. And don't get me wrong, not like I'm doing this everyday nor am I all that great with handtools, just a hobby thing. Key is to trust your hands and eyes (plus a sharp plane helps ;) ).

Have fun,

Dave