Need advice about end grain with a spindle gouge

[Dean Matthews]

I figure it has to be something I am doing wrong.

I turned the goblet the other day and I had a considerable amount of wood left from that blank. I decided to try out my first turned box today with the leftovers. I would love to say that it is just this piece of wood that is mistreating me, but I think it is probably me.

Unless I am mistaken with end grain you want to go from the inside to the outside, correct? let's assume this is correct.

Okay... I can get a sweeping movement out to the face without a problem. Because this was a box I was trying to make the wall a bit more straight. For some reason when I get to the face either I am not getting any cutting action or it grabs really bad.

At first I thought maybe it was a dull tool so I sharpened it. Nada... still not working real well. I tried moving the rest up... down... still acting weird. I had read somewhere that you want the flute between 9 and 10 o'clock. I was trying to get ANY edge to cut.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Your title tells some of the problem. Trying to "Rub the Bevel" of a spindle gouge on the INSIDE of a bowl type turning. You woulld normally use a Bowl Gouge, Scraper, or Skew.

To Get a straight side, I usually use the skew down the side and a scraper across the bottom.

Bruce

[Dean Matthews]

Your title tells some of the problem. Trying to "Rub the Bevel" of a spindle gouge on the INSIDE of a bowl type turning. You woulld normally use a Bowl Gouge, Scraper, or Skew.

To Get a straight side, I usually use the skew down the side and a scraper across the bottom.

Bruce

Hmm... My understanding was that the bowl gouge is fine for face grain but when it comes to hollowing out end grain that a spindle is the preferred tool. Is that incorrect?

[robert hainstock]

THE DEMONSTRATIONS I'VE SEEN AND THE VIDIOS, AND MY OWN LIMITED EXPIERENCE HAVE ALL SHOWN THAT THE BOWL GUAGE IS THE PREFERRED TOOL FOR THIS OPERATION. THE FEW TIMES THAT I TRIED THE SPINDLE GUAGE, WERE VERY TROUBLESOME. GOOD LUCK!:rolleyes:
BOB

[David Fried]

... THE FEW TIMES THAT I TRIED THE SPINDLE GUAGE, WERE VERY TROUBLESOME. GOOD LUCK!:rolleyes:
BOB


That's my experience too. I've read in books that you can do it but I can't. :(

[Dean Matthews]

That's my experience too. I've read in books that you can do it but I can't. :(

I have actually had MUCH better luck using the spindle gouge on the end grain... just had some trouble near the top. I had tried to go over to my bowl gouge but that we badly as well.

it COULD have just been the wood being weird, but I am not sure.

I was just watching Larry Marley's videos and it looks like he is using a spindle gouge when he hollows out his goblet (I could be wrong). The main difference in a bowl and spindle gouge is the shape of the flute, correct?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dean when I do a goblet I use a bowl gouge and start from the bottom center and come out. The final pass is either with a Hunter tool or Termite tool. Give a smooth surface that you can start sanding at 180 to 220.

[Glenn Hodges]

If you are having trouble getting started at the center just drill out the center then use which gouge you prefer.

[Dean Matthews]

If you are having trouble getting started at the center just drill out the center then use which gouge you prefer.

The center is fine. It's the out edge towards the top of the bowl/cup that is the problem.

Thinking about it more i am wondering if maybe speed was a problem. I currently do not recall what speed I had the lathe set to but I seem to remember changing it.

I have been looking at a bunch of different literature and reading several posts on here and elsewhere. It seems the bowl/spindle thing is a personal preference. I do know what when I was doing very small things (like goblet shaped wine stoppers) the spindle gouge was much more manageable and could get into tight corners.

Fatigue could also have been an issue. You know how it is... you get into it and you can see the end coming close so you keep going... but you have been doing it all day and you are slowing down.

I really think this was operator error on my part.

[Bob Hallowell]

Dean,
I was staying out of this cause I figured someone else would say what I was thinking, but...

Bruce eluded to it I think when he said your title was part of the problem.
For me unless It was a very small box maybe 2" wide and deep I would never of even thought of using a spindle gouge. First off unless it is a large gouge it is not designed to hang out real far past the tool rest. second the angle of grind is normally different. I have some spindle gouges that are ground with the same angles and fingernails as my bowl gouges and some are more of a tradition spindle profile so without seeing your gouge you are trying to use it is hard to say but I think that is you main problem.

If it was me I would use a bowl gouge to hog away most of the wood and would use a scraper to evenout the long flat sides. this can be done with a gouge if there is room but one mistake and it gone!

Bob

[Tom Keen]

I use a 3/8 inch bowl gouge to rough out the inside. However, one of my neighbors uses a 1/2 spindle gouge that has a very steep grind and a double bevel. Id say around 20 degree grind and the top bevel is maybe an 1/8". The bottom bevel looks like the standard one that came with the gouge. He starts at the center goes to the outside and right up the sides of his box. The bottom corners are slightly rounded. They get cleaned up with a scraper. My freinds methods seem better. Faster with a cleaner surface. Of course he got alot more experience than I do. Im not willing to sacrifice a gouge for this one special purpose.. but I may buy a an expensive spindle gouge from PSI and try it sometime.

Tom