Lumber rack installation help?

[Dan Forman]

I'm going to make a lumber rack similar to mfitterling's from this thread (about halfway down the first page). http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=2986748&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

This is to go in my basement, on an outside wall. A previous owner of the house did a very rudimentary finish of the basement, in that room it's masonite mounted on what appears to be 2x4 studs. In other areas of the basement I removed some of the paneling while re-wiring, and the wall treatment was very shoddy, not very well attached to the concrete outer walls. If this room is the same, I fear a loaded rack would pull the entire wall down.

Will it be possible to secure the existing wall and framework to the concrete, or do I need to rip it all out and start over? Needless to say, I would prefer the former option. I can't see how to do it using achors and lag bolts, as there would be no way to install the anchors behind the framework.

Dan

[Dan Barr]

I assume your concrete is just behind the 2x4 studs.

I would think that concrete anchors, maybe 3 or 4 inch type would do just fine. first, drill holes into the studs just larger than the anchors. then you could take your forstner and counter-sink them about 2 inches into the 2x4. Put a hefty fender washer on the head of the bolt before you put it into the anchor. the washer will hold the bolt onto the stud.

if you dont want to lose mass on the stud, then put the anchor beside the stud and just anchor a seperate piece of wood. then bolt that wood to the stud.

just a couple of thoughts.

v/r

dan

[ROY DICK]

http://www.confast.com/

Dan,
Check out the split drive, pictured in the lower right.

Good luck with the lumber rack.

Roy

[Leland Berry]

Dan--My 2cents, Both Roy/Dans suggestions are good, But a third-from
Dans link-are "concrete Hit anchors" , I'veused them to anchor 2x4s to
walls and (used re: the pkg directions-drill a hole and hammer them in)
they won't come out AND like some anchors , won't grab if the hole is
too deep. I'd make or buy some metal angle, drill one face to lag the
stud and one to drive into the concrete----

[harry strasil]

I anchored the tops to my floor joists, with a 2x4 sill at the bottom used 1x4's between them for supports and then on the ones on the outside used tapered wedge scrap plywood pieces screwed to the uprights for a short rack, you have to slide pieces in from the end tho, but its strong simple to make and doesn't rely on wall anchors. Mine is on the other side of the center partition I put under the main house beam from my shop. Each shelf is designated for a lumber species except for the timbers on the bottom shelf.

[Vic Damone]

I wish I could of anchored into concrete. I just reinforced all the studs in my garage to carry the load of a small loft area (storage). I rerouted the wiring to run along the rafter plate and drilled through the plate to drop wire for the receptacles to avoid drilling through the new wall studs.

I used solid 4"x6" married to the studs and screwed through the rafter plate and to the sill plate. I secured the shelf brackets just above each 14" and 18" cantilever with 3/8"x5" lag screws and washers.

The rack is loaded and we just had a 5.6 quake.

Vic

[glenn bradley]

With the style you point out all the 'pull' is going to be on those studs and the plate/sill that support them (forgive me if I just murdered those terms). Reinforcing the floor attachment would be good but also pay attention to the stud attachment at the top and bottom.

If the framing will be drywalled you pick up some stress distribution but I understand your concern for having the whole affair pull down. If the framing is good (no studs too short and held in place by nails passing through mid air and such) I would think some reinforcement should do you as opposed to a re-build.

[Dan Forman]

Thanks for all of the tips.

I think that I am going to change the orientation, work with a different wall(in the same room), which will be easier to gain access to the ceiling joists, which are covered at present. That should help stabilize the whole thing, as well as solving a couple of other problems having to do with avoiding pipes, a wall outlet, and storage access.

Dan