After Low Angle Adjust Block?

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Hi,
I know this question is frequently asked, but I can't really seem to nail down a solid answer so I pose it yet again. 6 months ago I knew nothing about planes. I bought a LV low angle adjust mouth block plane and absolutely love it. Use it all the time. Problem is that I still dont know a lot about planes. I *believe* my next need is the LV Medium Shoulder Plane, however what would be the best plane for me after that? I am looking for something to help tame QSWO and Curly hard and soft maple. Those are probably my most challenging woods. I am thinking a smoothing plane would be the way to go. Given that I use figured woods what angle should I be looking at?

Thanks so much,
Jeff

[Eddie Darby]

What type and size of projects are you looking at doing?

I ask because a 6" block plane doing small boxes, is like a 22" jointer doing large drawers.

If you are going to go with the Low Angle approach for your planes, then do you know about back bevels?

[Jeffrey Schronce]

What type and size of projects are you looking at doing?

I ask because a 6" block plane doing small boxes, is like a 22" jointer doing large drawers.

If you are going to go with the Low Angle approach for your planes, then do you know about back bevels?

Typically large projects, not small boxes etc.

The first plane I got was Low Angle Block Plane as that was pretty much the rave for 1st plane. I really like the LV Low Agnel Block Plane, however it is not optimal in highly figured wood. Based upon my readings it would appear that a higher angle plane would be the way to go.

Yes, I am familiar with back bevels. Between posting my original post and this post I sharpened my LV LA BP for the first time, back bevel and all. Can't say that I enjoyed it.

[Jim Nardi]

I'd buy the LV LA Jack plane. Simple to use. Get the middle angle blade as well as the low. You'll go along way before you need another plane after that.

[Eddie Darby]

I'd buy the LV LA Jack plane. Simple to use. Get the middle angle blade as well as the low. You'll go along way before you need another plane after that.

Since you like LV planes, I would say that this is a good next plane....if you don't mind the back bevels.

[Eddie Darby]

Given that I use figured woods what angle should I be looking at?

I would suggest that if you get a low angle bevel up plane, then you might first start with a total angle of 50 degrees, then adjust the angle with a micro bevel, until you are happy with the results.

The wilder the grain/figure, the more steeper you will have to go, but the micro bevels are very easy to play with and remove, if need be.

[willie sobat]

I read an article in FWW several years ago that suggested a list of planes that all small WW shops need. The recommended planes were; a low-angle block, a #4 smooth, a #5 jack, and a small bull-nosed shoulder plane like the Stanley #90. As far as a general recommendation goes, I think it is a good starter list.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Willie,

I remember the FWW article and bought a new Stanley #90 about 3 or 4 years ago: I would call it a "kit" plane for the amount of fettling it required. The Lee Valley bull nose is a much better choice should a plane of that type be required.

My choice would be a LV or LN shoulder plane. I have a LV medium and LN large and I use the LN large far more than the medium. both are very nice planes and either would be a great choice.

T.Z.

[Greg Crawford]

I recently got the same plane along with all three available blades. I use the 25 degree for end grain, the 38 for standard work and the 50 for wild grain. Makes it very versatile, and you can get the 50 degree blade for around $35 instead of buying another plane.

[Brian Kent]

Greg (or others), have you tried the steepest blade on ridiculously wild, knotty grain yet and how did it work?

I just bought the LV LA Jack for shooting, and I really love the way it works for mainline planing. I have been using the standard blade for inlay picture frames with curly maple as the main piece of wood and have had only one tear-out.

My standard for wild grain has been the mujingfang polish plane:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=98%2E107%2E2155&dept_id=13602

After a Creeker showed us a review of high angle planes where this $50 plane outperformed all but a several thousand dollar plane, I tried it and have been delighted. It is beautiful rosewood, uses A2 steel, and costs $14 more than LV Jack blade alone.

On the other hand, I just love using the new LV LA Jack so I'll probably buy the extra blades if they work as well in practice as they do in theory.

[Phillip Pattee]

Jeff,
I don’t own what I am going to mention, so just take it as theory. It is always more frugal to by a tool that is a multi-tasker than it is to buy special purpose tools. I think a smoother is an excellent choice for your plane after next. For difficult grain, a higher cutting angle has proven more effective. The LV low angle planes bed at 12 degrees and have plane bevels of 25, 38, and 50 degrees available. York pitch is a 50 degree cutting angle and has been very effective in working with highly figured woods to avoid tear out. York pitch is achieved with the 38 degree blade laid on the 12 degree bed. The LV blade is also available as a toothed blade that will also produce a York pitch. The advantage of a toothed blade is that instead of one wide cut you produce many small cuts that minimize the chance of tear out. You would have to go back over the surface with a regular blade after the toothed cuts, but then you are shaving off the ridges left by the previous pass. So this plane, or one similar to it, with one of the regular blades of your choice and a toothed blade may do all you need.

[JayStPeter]

I'm just a couple years ahead of you. My most used planes are the LV LA block, medium shoulder and a Bedrock #605. So far, I don't use the LA smoother much, but that might change. I use the 605 to smooth out my panel glueups. Much easier and faster than a sander. I recently got the LA jointer and am looking at the LA jack for future consideration.