Spalted Maple

[Mark Ball]

Hi All

First time posting here in the finishing forum, usually can be found in the general forum location.

I have just finished up a mantel clock made from figured spalted maple. It was cut from the crotch of a maple tree in a buddy's firewood pile. :cool: The wood has really nice figure. My question is what finish would you recommend? I have a few extra pieces, so I can experiment a little. I tried some boiled linseed oil on a scrap piece, and it appeared way to yellow for my taste. I am not interested in darkening the wood, just bring out the natural color and figure. I will post pictures after I have it finished.

Thanks a lot.

[Mike Dauphinee]

Try some Tung oil 50/50 with MS and follow with some super blonde shellac. You may not even need the shellac since it won't need much protection anyways. If you were really concerned about protection though, lacquer is clear and offers the most. IMO some kind of oil will set off the depth of the wood figure as it allows perhaps the most light refraction.

[Greg Cole]

Mark,
I've use some spalted maple for a few projects now. Much of what I've used has had some curl along with the spalting too... I really like just a plain Tung Oil finish on it. Doesn't affect the colors of the spalt and helps pop the curl a little bit too.....

Cheers,
Greg

[Mark Ball]

So two responses, both like tung oil!! Sounds like a consensus. Do you happen to know if tung oil is available at big box stores, specifically Menards. Is there a specific brand you look for? Also, why thin it with mineral spirits? Does it soak in better?
Thanks again.

[Mike Dauphinee]

Tung oil takes a long time to cure, thinning will speed the process. I also find it easier to apply evenly when thinned and arguably better penetration.. I flood the surface and wait 5-7 minutes and wipe excess and let it cure.
I don't know about big box store for 100% tung oil, but that is what you want. (most any WW store has it) Get it in a plastic bottle and pour out what you are going to use into another container. (I use mason jars). After you remove what you are going to use, squeeze the bottle out of air and recap, it will store longer that way. Air interaction will cause it to cure in the bottle.

[Steve Schoene]

I doubt you would see any difference between using genuine tung oil and using boiled linseed oil. The BLO cures considerably faster, is less expensive, and is available everywhere. It might darken a small amount more and pop figure slightly more than tung oil. Neither offers meaningful protection, but a mantle clock hardly needs protection. If you have an oil/varnish mix around, such as Watco, it will look almost identical, and offer a little bit more protection.

[Mike Dauphinee]

I tend to use blo on cherry and walnut because of its tendancy to darken over time and tung on lighter woods such as maple because it has less tendancy to darken over time. YMMV.

[Greg Cole]

Steve has sound advice on finishing.... far more depth & breadth of knowlegdge that I pretend to know. :D
I just plain old don't like the smell of BLO so I only use it when I can air our the shop after application & this time of year isn't optimal for that here. I used some 2 weeks ago on a cabinet under the TS rails (90")... maybe it's just me but I could smell it for 2-3 days out in the shop.

Cheers,
Greg

[Mark Ball]

Hi guys

Sorry for the delay in answering back. Ran into a nasty virus that sat me down for quite a few days.

Anyway, made a trip to my local hardware store yesterday, and they had 100% tung oil (which I bought) and also by the same mfg. a tung oil and varnish mix, which was listed as high gloss. The guy at the hardware store said you would get more protection and gloss from the mix, and I didn't want a high gloss and protection isn't my number 1 concern, therefore I chose the 100% tung oil. He recommended using a wet sanding technique to apply the tung oil. I picked up some 400 grit too. When I used BLO, I saturated the piece, and let it soak in for 5 minutes, then wiped off the excess. My plan with the tung oil is to saturate it, wet sand it, and then wipe off the excess. Does this sould ok to you? Also, how many coats? I believe with BLO, you do only one?

Thanks again.

[Steve Schoene]

Yes, you apply tung oil like BLO--apply, let soak, and then wipe off everything on the surface. Then, assuming you have a relatively warm area (70° or more) for it to dry, let it cure for at least several days, lightly sand with about 400 grit, and apply another coat. It will take at least 5 coats, with several days curing and light sanding between each to achieve an even satin finish. If you try to rush it, you run the risk of the finish developing a "frosty" look down the road.

[Jim Becker]

If you want to minimize color change, consider using just super blond de-waxed shellac or a water-borne finish. If you want to use an oil-based varnish, use a soya-oil based formula, such as Pratt and Lambert #38. (But anything oil-based is going to give "some" amber and many of the water-bornes are a bit lifeless. TEST on scrap of the same material!