Remote for 220V dust collector

[Rob Blaustein]

Does anyone know of a remote for a 220 V dust collector that accepts locking NEMA style plugs rather than the non-locking style? I picked a wireless remote up at Woodcraft then realized when I got home that I wired my DC with the twist lock style plugs (which is what my receptacles are). In other words:

My DC plugs look something like this:
74418

But the remote has receptacles and plug that look like this:
74419

I'd rather not rewire things (or make one from scratch) so was wondering if I could just get a remote with the "right" style plugs. If not, are there adapters or would I have to make something?

[Rick Gifford]

If you use a heavy duty relay you can turn your 220V DC on with a standard 110V switch. The remotes are easier to find for the standard plugs as well. I just finished installing my Clear Vue DC (haven't put in the ducting yet) and it uses this relay.

http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Order_Page/h230b%20Relay.jpg

They also sell the radio frequency remote:

http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Order_Page/HW2190%20Remote.jpg

The setup works fine. I am sure you can find these online somewhere. Or they can be ordered from the clear vue website as well.

Good luck!

[Greg Cole]

Rob,
Get an L-6 20P for it, cut off the factory one. Or at least that's what I did. Guess ya could change the receptacle too.... but the plug is easier.:rolleyes:

Greg

[Rob Blaustein]

Rob,
Get an L-6 20P for it, cut off the factory one. Or at least that's what I did. Guess ya could change the receptacle too.... but the plug is easier.:rolleyes:

Greg

Greg, Sorry, not sure I follow you. Are you saying replace the remote's plug with one that would fit into my receptacle? I could, but I'd still have the problem of not being able to plug my DC into the remote. Rob

[Jason Beam]

Swap the plugs ... put the remote's plug on your DC, DC plug on your remote. All should match. You probably can't just lop off factory plugs, but you should be able to buy replacement plugs in both styles.

[Jim Becker]

Use a contactor that can be controlled by a 120v or low voltage remote. You eliminate the plug/receptacle issue and also insure that you have a remote solution that is rated for your DC.

[Dick Sylvan]

If you use a heavy duty relay you can turn your 220V DC on with a standard 110V switch. The remotes are easier to find for the standard plugs as well. I just finished installing my Clear Vue DC (haven't put in the ducting yet) and it uses this relay.
The setup works fine. I am sure you can find these online somewhere. Or they can be ordered from the clear vue website as well.

Good luck!

I am in the process of installing my Clear-vue and am struggling with this issue right now. I feel like a total dumba**, since this seems to be a simple subject for many of you, but what the hell is a relay or a contactor and what do they have to do with the simple act of turning a motor on or off? With my 120v tools I can use a standard light switch wired very simply into the tool's circuit to turn it off or on. Now I go to 240v and it seems that I am now into wiring the mechanism to create Frankenstein's monster. Is there not such a simple thing as an off/on switch for a 240v circuit. As you can tell, I find what should be a simple subject to be highly exasperating. Please can someone point me to a source that explains this in terms that the average college graduate can understand. Thanks a lot!!!

[Greg Narozniak]

Same issue I had. I simply made a small "Extension cord" with the female Twist lock and the made spade plug uisng some 10ga 3 wire cable from Lowes, Mine was Yellow jacketed and one foot was like $1 and change and it has worked without any issues. You can obviously do the same in reverse if needed.

Opps you said you did not want to make one from scratch, not sure why it took all of 10 minutes and a few turns of the Screwdriver and works perfect.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Rob, the simplest solution is to change the receptacle and cord cap.

Making an adapter from a piece of cab tire, a connector body and a cord cap can be done, however then you have two extra devices and two extra connections in your circuit.

Keep it simple.......Replace the receptacle and the cord cap.....Regards, Rod.

[Jamie Buxton]

I am in the process of installing my Clear-vue and am struggling with this issue right now. I feel like a total dumba**, since this seems to be a simple subject for many of you, but what the hell is a relay or a contactor and what do they have to do with the simple act of turning a motor on or off? With my 120v tools I can use a standard light switch wired very simply into the tool's circuit to turn it off or on. Now I go to 240v and it seems that I am now into wiring the mechanism to create Frankenstein's monster. Is there not such a simple thing as an off/on switch for a 240v circuit. As you can tell, I find what should be a simple subject to be highly exasperating. Please can someone point me to a source that explains this in terms that the average college graduate can understand. Thanks a lot!!!

You can buy and use a simple mechanical switch for 240 volt single phase for your 3 hp motor. It will be quite similar to the your standard light switch, except that it will switch both hots, where the light switch only needs to deal with one hot. They're not common in your local HD, but I've bought them from McMaster-Carr. (P/N 7657K31 is a DPST mechanical switch rated for motors up to 3 hp and 240 volts.) That is, you don't have to be Dr Frankenstein to get your DC operational.

The terms "magnetic switch", "relay", and "power contactor" all refer to using two devices to control the motor. The power is switched by the relay, and the relay is controlled by some other means. The "other means" sometimes is a radio-based remote contol like a garage-door opener. Or the "other means" is sometimes mechanical switches. With the remote-control, the advantage is the ability to control the DC from anyplace in the shop without walking over to the DC. You can also do tricky things like turning on the DC by opening a blast gate, or by turning on a machine. Another feature of the magnetic switch approach is that if the power to the shop goes out while the power is on, the relay drops out. That is, when the power returns, the controlled machine will not turn on. On things like table saws, this is a safety feature. On a DC, it is not so obvious a benefit.

[Matt Robinette]

I am also in the process of setting up my Clearvue Max here are a few pics of how I did mine. The 110v remote attaches to the coil on the relay to open and close the 220v contacts. 220v in from the sub panel 220v out to the motor. I am also going to add a regular switch to the coil for those days I can't find the remote.

[Dick Sylvan]

I am also in the process of setting up my Clearvue Max here are a few pics of how I did mine. The 110v remote attaches to the coil on the relay to open and close the 220v contacts. 220v in from the sub panel 220v out to the motor.

It seems that there is no simple solution to a simple need. I promise I am not trying to be a smartass, but what does all this extra wiring do for you over a "switch", other than that's the only way to get it turned off and on. If that is the case why not package all this together and sell it as a "240v Switch"? I suppose I could buy a 30A 240v plug and receptacle and just plug it in when I want to turn it on. BTW, thanks for the pics. Do I buy all this stuff from the links found on the Clear-Vue web page?

[Chris Padilla]

They also sell the radio frequency remote:

http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Order_Page/HW2190%20Remote.jpg

The setup works fine. I am sure you can find these online somewhere. Or they can be ordered from the clear vue website as well.

Good luck!

I haven't had good luck with the Carlon stuff above (two died on me). Radio Shack sells similar things and seem to be better quality or at least can handle the garage environment. Also, you can get mulitple remotes with the RS stuff.

[Chris Padilla]

It seems that there is no simple solution to a simple need. I promise I am not trying to be a smartass, but what does all this extra wiring do for you over a "switch", other than that's the only way to get it turned off and on. If that is the case why not package all this together and sell it as a "240v Switch"? I suppose I could buy a 30A 240v plug and receptacle and just plug it in when I want to turn it on. BTW, thanks for the pics. Do I buy all this stuff from the links found on the Clear-Vue web page?

Dick,

You simply get to use a remote to turn on your DC...that is all really. Some find a benefit in that but it may not be for everyone. Think about having to go to the TV to change the channel!! :eek:

[Brad Shipton]

I too am putting together a Clearvue. I was not thrilled by the electrical setup, so I opted to buy a Siemens Magnetic switch gear for the added motor protection and a On/Off/Auto switch which I am getting some help to wire in a 115V remote.

[Jim Becker]

It seems that there is no simple solution to a simple need. I promise I am not trying to be a smartass, but what does all this extra wiring do for you over a "switch", other than that's the only way to get it turned off and on. If that is the case why not package all this together and sell it as a "240v Switch"? I suppose I could buy a 30A 240v plug and receptacle and just plug it in when I want to turn it on. BTW, thanks for the pics. Do I buy all this stuff from the links found on the Clear-Vue web page?

Dick, I don't use a remote...I have a simple, normal switch centrally located in my shop. But that switch isn't connected to the DC directly. Rather, it supplies or takes away 120v from the control side of the contactor. In this way, I have a device that is rated appropriately for my DC's motor and a simple way to control it. I got tired of burning out off-the-shelf "solutions" for DC remote control.

[Bert Johansen]

Rob, here's the deal. You can get an inexpensive remote device from any number of suppliers such as Radio Shack, Ace Hardware, etc. (There are really two pieces to this "kit." One part is a box that plugs into a 110v outlet, and has wires you hook into the Contactor--see below. The other is a small remote unit which works like a garage opener, and you can attach the remote to a lanyard and add a carabiner to clip on your belt loop.

The issue you don't understand is that these inexpensive remotes only work on 110 volts. So, you need to switch your 220 volts with a Contactor, which uses a relay activated by the AC device to switch the 220 volts. These can be purchased from any number of industrial supply houses such as McMaster-Carr, etc. I purchased mine from Marlin P. Jones--a source that sells overstock items at great prices. (Rick Gifford's first photo is a typical contactor.) Then build or buy a small enclosure for the Contactor, and wire one side to your 220V plug and the other side to your DC. Wire the AC from the remote kit to the contactor, plug the other side into 110 volt AC and your remote will now power your DC. Really handy to have it hanging from your belt loop.

Here is a carabiner with lanyard: