Old Iron (Unisaw)

[Maury Saggus]

After looking around for a some time for a PM 66 cabinet saw, tomorrow I'll be bringing this baby home!:D

She needs some cosmetic work, but otherwise in good condition. I will be detailing my progress in bringing it back to form. Here is what I know:
1954 Unisaw
1HP R/I (Bullet) Delta Motor 220V
Goose Egg cover missing
arbor threads slightly flat (may need new arbor, see below)

I have a Bies 30" fence if the Jet Lock fence is too stubborn.

I do have a question.....If the arbor threads won't hold the nut well enough, is it wise to get a die to try and raise the threads, or should I just get a new arbor??
The bearings seem to bee in good shape, but I havent checked the runout.

Can't wait to fire it up!:)

[Pete Bradley]

A
I do have a question.....If the arbor threads won't hold the nut well enough, is it wise to get a die to try and raise the threads, or should I just get a new arbor??
The bearings seem to bee in good shape, but I havent checked the runout.


Nice machine. That one should have years of good service ahead. If the threads won't hold the arbor nut, I'd replace it rather than trying to make them work.

I'd replace the bearings on general principle. They have to be way beyond trashed to affect runout

I believe a 1954 machine will have extended inner race (87xxx) bearings. These are easy to get so I would replace with the same thing rather than playing games with 6xxx bearings and spacers. Buy Japanese or U.S. A replacement arbor may be dimensioned for 6xxx bearings. Check the forum at www.owwm.org to be sure.

I'd lose the clown paint too. Benjamin Moore Iron Clad comes in a good machine gray and you can get it tinted to whatever shade you want if you're a purist.

Pete

[Kermit Hodges]

Not sure what you mean by flat threads, but the threads had a flat look to them. Nt sure if they are ACME threads or not? Regardless if they are bad, by all means replace it.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Your arbor should have acme threads, which are flat. The only reason to replace it is if it is worn down enough that the saw blade gets too much runout from not centering well.

Get a dial indicator and check the arbor for runout and axial play. Replace if necessary.

[Paul Gatti]

Congratulations!

I have a 1956 Unisaw that runs like a champ. Mine was missing the original motor cover as well when I bought it last year. Instead came with an ABS plastic replacement cover that works just fine. You will definitely want to put the Bies fence on the saw. It's a much better fence than the jet lock.

[Richard Dragin]

What model Grizzly is that saw?

[Jim Kountz]

Umm that aint no Grizzly bear Richard, that be the real thing! A Delta Unisaw!!;)

[Maury Saggus]

Got it home yesterday. Had to take the top off to make it light enough to put in the shop. Looked inside and no cracks in the trunions - Yeah! (pics below)

Anyway, the tilt and height wheels were just a little resistant. So I sprayed them with some Boeshield and a few minutes later......like BUTTAH!

No issue I think with the arbor threads. I had to get my neighbor to hold the belts on the pulleys while I loosened the nut with an impact wrench. Popped right off and I see no reason why it won't tighten. (I do need a new nut and an arbor wrench though)

I put a dial indicator on the arbor to check runout. To my suprise the maximum deflection was 0.0007 in. Less than 0.001 runout on a 53 year old Unisaw.....not bad at all. I then checked the axial runout and found it to be about 0.0003 in. I don't know if that is within spec but it sounds reasonable to me.

All in all I believe I have found a winner with this one. I plan to start restoration on it this weekend, and I will document my progress. Any feedback on things to watch out for would be much appreciated.

Regards,

Maury