Rust

[Julie Tanner]

Hey Guys

am having some trouble with rust on my equipment. It is showing up on my band saw and my lathe bed. How do you combat it ? I live in the very humid south. How do you clean it up and is there anything I can to to help prevent or at least slow down it? My equipment is in the garage.

THanks

[Julie Tanner]

looks like I found some info that I need.
any suggestions for getting rid of the rust that is already forming on my equipment >>

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11217

THanks

[Bob Aquino]

looks like I found some info that I need.
any suggestions for getting rid of the rust that is already forming on my equipment >>

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11217

THanks

Julie
You can use a scotchbrite pad and wd-40 to remove it. Sealing it up, there a a couple of alternatives. I've used paste wax with good results, it also puts down a pretty slick surface that lets the wood slide nicely. There are some commercial products out, like boeshield t-9 that are used to preserve metal in a corrosive environment. Not sure where you live, but I am down in VA and we get pretty soppy here in the summer too.

[Mick Zelaska]

I use a lubricant called Ballistol on pretty much anything metal that I own. Kind of a super protective lubricant invented by the German Army. Have not seen any rust since I started using it!!

http://www.allproducts.com/sup005/ballistol/p01.html

[Leland Berry]

:confused: Julie--1've got the same problem-more KEEPing rust and stains off.
I've removed rust with a 1/4-sheet sander with 600 to 2000 grit wet/dry automotive paper--saves elbow grease-with success. In fact, at this very moment, my TS top is mirror - clean-absolutely shiny, but won't stay long.
I'll have to try the T9 Boeshield I guess, but I have no idea how long it
will last. I'm in humid Arkansas and chasing rust on my jointer and TS is
turning into a career :(

[Randy Denby]

I use both....Boeshield and floor paste wax. The biggest thing that stopped rust in my shop was my realizing what was happening. I would open the overhead door in the mornings with a cool shop to a warming sun....or open the shop in the summer in the evenings after running the a/c during the day. Basically, the machines were cooler than the air coming into the shop and forming condensate on the metal. This time of year or spring is the worst. So my advice....keep the shop warm in the fall/winter/spring and basically let any temp change happen very gradually. Dehumidify if possible.

[Gary Keedwell]

I use a lubricant called Ballistol on pretty much anything metal that I own. Kind of a super protective lubricant invented by the German Army. Have not seen any rust since I started using it!!

http://www.allproducts.com/sup005/ballistol/p01.html
Mick...very interesting link...thank-you. Do you purchase it through the mail?
Gary

[Mick Zelaska]

Gary, I do buy it online. There are many sources. I found out about Ballistol while shooting blackpowder pistols. Once fired, blackpowder is highly corrosive. Cleaning and lubricating with Ballistol eliminated all rust.

I also read that it has some medicinal uses - but I can only attest to rust prevention!

[Greg Cole]

I have a garage shop in Kansas City MO. We have rather high humidity much of the year.... I have found that I can get the best protection from:
#1) Using a dehumidifier in the gar-errr shop
#2) Waxing all CI surfaces frequently
My thinking tells me if I can remove what its causing the problem I'll not have to worry about the symptoms as much...:rolleyes: least that's the general idea. Dehumidifier also adds some heat to the shop in the non-sweltering months of the year..... but spins the power meter a wee bit too.
Interesting stuff for gun cleaning on a side note.... I've got my Dad's regimen beat into my noodle of a full cleaning and application of 3 in 1 oil after any shooting as well as a yearly disassembly and complete once over.
I still hear his umm...well... adamant reminders of cleaning & oiling when I touch a gun and leave fingerprints..... even if in a store.

Greg

[Paul Libby]

Greg, try some RIG spray (available at most gun stores) you will find it much better than 3 in 1. I have use a bunch of gun oil, and most was just fine, but RIG was recommended to me by a guy that is a top S&W smith, and collector.

[Dave Hale]

Boeshield T9 and Scotch pad to remove the rust. Put it on thick and sloppy. Seems to me the Boeshield helps lift the rust out. Wipe off with clean rags and wipe it off DRY!!! I've used T9 and WD40 a couple of times before and the key point is, if the conditions that created the rust still exist, it will start to rust immediately!

I use the Empire Top Saver immediately after that. Let it dry, buffed, then sprayed another light layer of the Top Saver.

Whenever the iron stops being slippery, another layer of Top Saver.

Just had to do it this weekend. Very humid day and big temp change when I opened the gara...Shop door. ;)

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

You are going to need to de-humidify the garage.
Not only will your tools rust but your work will change dimension -sometimes dramatically - when you transfer it to an HVAC atmosphere.

[Julie Tanner]

Thanks for the responses.
I live in South Carolina about 20 min from the atlantic ocean.

[Bill Brehme]

Or you could try out Grandpa's homemade concoction.;)

You could make this out of stuff you got already laying around the shop.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67852

Hey, its trendy to be 'GREEN'...:D

[Brad Sperr]

I'm a fan of just paste wax to condition iron and lubricate fences, etc. I also really like the tool saver covers from HTC. They're made of a breathable but water-resistant fabric and are pretty cheap (~$25)