Inset door gap

[Quinn McCarthy]

I am building an entertainment center with RF&P inset pocket doors. I was wondering what people usually use for a gap around the doors. The last one I did at 1/8" and I didn't like the gap although nobody complained. I was thinking maybe 3/32" this time. I am just curious what other people usually use.

Thanks

Quinn

[Hunter Wallace]

Use Abe...that's just my $.01 worth!

...I don't know what a penny measures but
I like the gap that it leaves

[Paul Girouard]

I use 1/8" aluminium bar stock for pretty much all my gaps , regular doors , cabinet doors, etc , I pack around two little "magic shims" with me in my nail bags .

Great little spacers , need a 1/4" reveal just stack two "magic shims " and you've got your reveal mark.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17012-3.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17013-1.jpg

What I've found over the years is people will not adjust hinges and once they start rubbing it's all over for the piece. So IF the piece is for your self/ will be in your house you could go with a little smaller gap , BUT with wood seasonal movement anytyhing under 1/8" will be come problematic / require attention to maintain that smaller gap. And most people will not do what is required to maintain that smaller gap. YMMV.

[glenn bradley]

I go 1/8" for most shop cabinets. I use pennies or old CD's for finer work. It depends on the look you're after; if the door is very large (long) the 1/64th you're talking about may or may not be noticable. It would be easy enough to check with a couple boards propped up with some light source from behind. the decorative edge (if any) will contribute to the "look" as well. Enjoy the process. ;-)

[Gary Keedwell]

I go 1/8" for most shop cabinets. I use pennies or old CD's for finer work. It depends on the look you're after; if the door is very large (long) the 1/64th you're talking about may or may not be noticable. It would be easy enough to check with a couple boards propped up with some light source from behind. the decorative edge (if any) will contribute to the "look" as well. Enjoy the process. ;-)
I guess I'll play the "teacher" today and correct Mr. Bradley.:) OP asked about a gap of 3/32" = .094 from a gap of 1/8" = .125. therefore he is reducing the gap 1/32" =.032.;)
OK. if you all kindly get out your geography books and turn to page.......
Gary

[Quinn McCarthy]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I will check to see how penny looks. I am more worried about the doors expanding and getting stuck.

Q

[Paul Girouard]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I will check to see how penny looks. I am more worried about the doors expanding and getting stuck.

Q


That's why 1/8" is the best choice. As that gap gets smaller even the "hinge swing" , doors rubbing when the door is opened and closed , starts to happen.

Wood moves , if you don't allow for it, the result is rubbing or as you mentioned stuck doors.

Gary , what page was that???????:D

[Jim Becker]

"Timing" is meaningful relative to the gap, depending on your construction. Wood expands and contracts seasonally and that can often open and close the gaps. If you build during the driest part of the year, you'll need to leave more gap; during the wettest part of the year, less; in between those times you'll need to figure what will work best over time. While I prefer tight gaps, it's gotten me into trouble, leading to the need to shave a door or three in my kitchen after the fact as the result.

[frank shic]

quinn, 3/32" is what the pro's use. just google: inset door gap 3/32 for some reassurance from the guys on woodweb.

[Gary Keedwell]

I did my last doors around 3/32". I figure you can always take it off later but you can't put it back on.;)
Gary

[Jeff Wright]

The second photo in the post below shows my gaps using a dime. We'll see how that spacing does after 12 months go by.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=630316#post630316

[Todd Jensen]

I use 3 boars hairs and a shot of whiskey. :D

[Jon Dieterlen]

3/32 is what you need to use. We build several full inset kitchens each year, and 3/32 gaps are what you want. Take the opening minus 3/16 for a single door and opening minus 1/4 for double doors. This will work with Amerock full inset non motise hinges as well as Blum with with the plate that screws to the back of the face frame.

Jon

[Jim Kountz]

Alot of this depends on the material of the face frame and the door. You can close the gap tighter on plywood doors and face frames over solid wood. If there is no FF and your doors are of plywood you can get nice and tight without much worry of expansion/contraction, assuming the sides of the cab are 3/4" or thereabouts.
Construction comes into play as well, Again if your doors are frame and panel you wouldnt have to worry much especially if your panels are plywood.
Just some thoughts!

[Ron Brese]

I think a .125 gap on a piece of furniture would be excessive and sloppy looking, however it may be approprite for a kitchen. I generally use .062 as the gap on furniture and my own kitchen cabinets. I back cut at a slight angle away from the latch side of ther door and this helps the door clear even if the gap has tightened up a bit during humid conditions. If the doors are frame and panel and they are finished well the .062 gap with the angle cut edge should clear in all but the most extreme circumstances. I have a cherry vanity in our master bath that is designed like a Shaker wash stand. the doors and drawers are inset and have .062 gaps all around. No problems for 2 years now in a bathroom.

Ron Brese

[Jeff Wright]

3/32 is what you need to use. We build several full inset kitchens each year, and 3/32 gaps are what you want. Take the opening minus 3/16 for a single door and opening minus 1/4 for double doors. This will work with Amerock full inset non motise hinges as well as Blum with with the plate that screws to the back of the face frame.

Jon

Jon, I am planning my new kitchen and prefer to use inset doors. Current plans are to use traditional mortised hinges. Are you happy using the Blum hinges you mention? If I can get a look that's acceptable and hinges that hold up over the years, I would consider another hinge over the traditional mortised hinge.

[Jim Kountz]

I have a cherry vanity in our master bath that is designed like a Shaker wash stand. the doors and drawers are inset and have .062 gaps all around. No problems for 2 years now in a bathroom.

Ron Brese

And thats saying something folks! Were talking some serious humidity down there with them GA boys!
(LOML is from Moultrie)