Are Air Dried Pen Blanks Okay?

[Matt Hutchinson]

I have just started a woodturning business here in Grand Rapids, MI. :D I am doing both architectural and bowl turning. Of course, for the bowl turning I am starting to acquire quite a lot of wood. As I get to blanking out this wood I often have cutoffs (1 inch thick planks) that are highly figured, some of which are amazing, but not useable for much more then pen or bottle stopper turning. I don't do either of these, and I don't know what special care needs to be taken to make sure a highly figured pen blank is stable. Maybe enough "air time" will be enough, but I was hoping I could get the opinions of people who have made pens before. I was hoping to sell this wood to penturners, including anyone interested from here at The Creek, and I don't want to ruin such gorgeous wood. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

BTW, maybe species plays a significant part? Right now I have crotch grain and highly flamed blanks from catalpa, sassafrass, and walnut.

[robert hainstock]

WHAT KIND OF WOOD? I TURN A LOT OF LILAC FOR PENS, AND MUCH OF IT GREEN. THE HTING GREEN LILAC DOES BEST IS SPLIT, THOUGH I HAVE HAD LITTLE PROBLEM WITH PEN BLANKS SPLITTING. MAYBE IT IS DIFFICULT FOR SLALL PIECES TO GET STRESSED ENOUGH TO SPLIT? IF TOUR WOOD IS WALNUT CROTCH, OR BURL, OR ROOT. IT WOULD BE SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL FIGURE AVAILABLE. :o
BOB

[George Guadiane]

I have just started a woodturning business here in Grand Rapids, MI. :D I am doing both architectural and bowl turning. Of course, for the bowl turning I am starting to acquire quite a lot of wood. As I get to blanking out this wood I often have cutoffs (1 inch thick planks) that are highly figured, some of which are amazing, but not useable for much more then pen or bottle stopper turning. I don't do either of these, and I don't know what special care needs to be taken to make sure a highly figured pen blank is stable. Maybe enough "air time" will be enough, but I was hoping I could get the opinions of people who have made pens before. I was hoping to sell this wood to penturners, including anyone interested from here at The Creek, and I don't want to ruin such gorgeous wood. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

BTW, maybe species plays a significant part? Right now I have crotch grain and highly flamed blanks from catalpa, sassafrass, and walnut.
You could wax the ends and stick one in the microwave for drying - look around for a drying schedule - If thee test blank(s) split up, there is a higher likelihood that others might. Since they are cutoffs, if you feel like it, cut up the blanks and set them aside, all you'll have in them is the extra labor, in terms of cost...
I have to say, I still have HUNDREDS, some of them very nice looking woods. I sell wood at turning symposiums, and this last one - not one pen blank.

[Rich Souchek]

Matt,
Air drying is perfect, and preferred, particularly in walnut.
Guess you justy about got it right. The 1" stock works real good for pen blanks, and is good thickness for air drying. Coating the ends will help prevent checking and splits while drying. I throw this kind wood in a dark shop corner and then ignore it. Usually, I remember some stock somewhere, hunt it up, and it is dry enough to use. Sometimes 3 months, sometimes 3 years.
Rich S.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Well, what y'all have been saying is about what I wanted to know. I have sealed all the wood already, so I think things will dry just fine.

To George:
When you try to sell the blanks, do you price them cheaply? I am guessing that plain blanks won't sell, but what about highly figured ones? Do you have problems with unloading those as well? I know that my local woodturner's association really doesn't have many members who turn pens, but I was thinking about trying to post them on an auction site. Have you tried that before? Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

The method matters not...but for pens, you do want dry wood.