Had my first major kickback today

[Cliff Newton]

Scared the heck out of me. I was ripping a board about 2 feet long and 6 inches wide when Whammo!!! That son of a gun lifted up and flew past me about fifteen feet behind me and slammed into the wall. I was pushing it with a homemade pushstick and now my hand is numb because the board crammed the pushstick into my hand, hard and fast. That was the scariest experience I have had in the shop. Needless to say, I'm a little gun shy now. I think I'm going to spend a couple days away from the tablesaw.

That's what I get for not using the splitter.

[Halsey MCCombs]

Get back on the horse and use the splitter this time! Glad all came out ok.Halsey

[Greg Heppeard]

I had one from the bandsaw last Thursday..got quite a gash above my right eye...was resawing an irregular piece of wood and it caught and *&^#@. Thanks to my safety glasses, I still have an eye. Just one of the hazards of this hobby.

[John Miliunas]

Cliff, been there, done that! Glad to hear you're OK, albeit shaken up a bit. Like Halsey said, get that splitter on and jump back on the horse!

Not to preach, but we now have many options for splitters and I see little or no reason a guy shouldn't use one! I mean, thanks for sharing this important reminder with us, but I'd just as soon NOT have to read too many of these! Work safe now, hear?! :cool:

[Cliff Newton]

Who makes a good aftermarket splitter for the Grizzly 1023s? I need one that is easy to put on and take off.

[Michael Campbell]

Scared the heck out of me. I was ripping a board about 2 feet long and 6 inches wide when Whammo!!! That son of a gun lifted up and flew past me about fifteen feet behind me and slammed into the wall. I was pushing it with a homemade pushstick and now my hand is numb because the board crammed the pushstick into my hand, hard and fast. That was the scariest experience I have had in the shop. Needless to say, I'm a little gun shy now. I think I'm going to spend a couple days away from the tablesaw.

That's what I get for not using the splitter.

Glad you're ok.

As I was glancing down the list of posts, I read your title and thought to myself, "don't tell me, lemme guess; no splitter".

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Cliff. I think I heard the "Oh S***" clear up here in McKinney :(

The people who make the Grrriper are now marketing a splitter. It is a little bitty dude that you mount in a throat plate. I saw a sample of it on the Grrrriper video tape. Can't say how good it is since it is new to the market....

Take a look at microjig (http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm)

[Curt Harms]

Who makes a good aftermarket splitter for the Grizzly 1023s? I need one that is easy to put on and take off.

Hello Cliff

Sorry to hear about your incident. I have an 6 yr.old G1023 that I put a Delta splitter on. It's part of the Uniguard setup (part number: 1349941 SPLITTER ASSY). You can check Mark Goodall's site for info WWW.HAPPYWOODWORKING.COM. I'm sure the Bies will fit as well but the Bies is about $90 more. I was able to attach the Delta splitter with no modification. It's attached and removed with a threaded knurled knob that I find easy to use. Hope this helps.

Curt

[John Miliunas]

Cliff, I use a Biesemeyer splitter and love it! I think I've seen where folks have been able to retro-fit the unit on a Grizz. I had to retro mine, as well; Biesy doesn't make a "stock" unit for Bridgewood. Ken's suggestion may be another one to look at. Along those same lines, you can also make your own if you use zero clearance inserts for your blade(s). That's what I used to do on my previous Delta saw and it would virtually "force" me to use the splitter, 'cuz it's right there on the insert. :cool:

[Jeff Skory]

Hi Cliff. I think I heard the "Oh S***" clear up here in McKinney :(

The people who make the Grrriper are now marketing a splitter. It is a little bitty dude that you mount in a throat plate. I saw a sample of it on the Grrrriper video tape. Can't say how good it is since it is new to the market....

Take a look at microjig (http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm)


I ordered one a couple of days ago so I'll let you know how it works. I also have a Grrripper and video on the way. In the meantime I have been using a 1/8" drillbit glued into my zero-clearance insert. It works great and still lets me use my cross-cut sled since there are none of those spring loaded claws in the way. However, I do miss those claws when ripping which is why I ordered the Grripper.

I also use a magnetic featherboard that not only pushes sideways but has a piece of plastic that rides on top of the board to hold it down. Can't remember the name but it a nice bright yellow.

Lots of alternatives. And I know what you are talking about. I have a nice hole in the door from a piece of wood. Very scary!

[Dennis Peacock]

Cliff....glad to here that the board missed you.!!!!! Last year, I got to experience my very first kickback after ww'ing off and on for over 20 years. I got the chance to catch a 2 by 6 twisted pine board just above the right nipple of my chest. I got to wear a nice multi-colored bruise for 7 weeks. LOML had to catch me as it knocked the breath out of me and knocked me back about 8 feet. No time to react to a board coming at you at mach 3 plus.... :eek:

Glad you are OK....it really could have been worse.

I guess I need to try a splitter one of these days.....

[Tom Hintz]

Cliff,
Glad it just scared you! I shot myself in the stomach a while ago and carried around a nice bruise for a while to remind me of it.
One thing you need to do is check the alignment of your blade and fence. Very often when folks write me about kickbacks and I tell them to do this, they find one or both are out-of-alignment. Whether that occured as a result of the kickback or was part of the cause, I don't know, and at this point don't care. The important thing is to check it over to be sure it doesn't contribute to something happening in the future.

[Tony Falotico]

Cliff,
I shot myself in the stomach a while ago

Cliff, just like Tom I caught it on the right side of the stomach several years back, a stupid cut on a piece too small for the tablesaw, but I was in a hurry to get a piece done for a show the next day. Hit me at about 3000 mph (or so it seemed), I was barely able to hit the kill switch as I was going down. Carried the bruise for months afterwards.

Be safe, respect that saw but don't be afraid of it.

[Mark Singer]

Cliff,
If you used a "Board Buddy" behind the blade....it would be impossible for the blade to flip up the piece and initiate a kickback. Really short pieces should be cut on the bandsaw. The back of the blade is forcinng the wood up and without something holding it down it could still kickback. I use "Board Buddys" and I can't remember the last time I had a kickback!

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I've only had two kickbacks in 25+ years and both times I wasn't using the splitter. I use it all the time now.

[Russ Filtz]

I know some might disagree, but I always ride my blade a little higher than the 2-3 teeth clear on top rule. Forgot where, but I read somewhere the theory is with the blade up high, the cutting teeth are at a more downward angle when cutting. With the blade low, the cutting force is angle backwards, more towards the operator. Of course, without a splitter this whole theory may be bad as the rear blade angle is higher, which could aim a piece at your head instead of the gut!

Also with a high blade, you have more blade on the piece and it can be easier to burn the wood. Some also feel a high blade is more dangerous by being easier for the operator to contact directly. Guess it's just what works for you as long as you use safey features, be careful, and stand to the side as much as possible!

[kevin kirlin]

This is my first post on this forum. Forgive the newbie question. What do you use to avoid kickback on a bandsaw? Is there a splitter attachment? I've not seen one for my Jet 18" saw?

[Cliff Newton]

Kevin.

Wecome to the Creek.
Bandsaws don't kickback, but watch where you put your thumbs. :eek:





This is my first post on this forum. Forgive the newbie question. What do you use to avoid kickback on a bandsaw? Is there a splitter attachment? I've not seen one for my Jet 18" saw?

[Cliff Newton]

Kevin,

I just saw the post I think you're referring to. That fella said he was cutting an irregular piece of wood on the bandsaw and he lost control of it. It was probably round, like a log. If you tried to crosscut a log or something similar on a bandsaw the blade could catch on a knot and spin that baby out of your hands or drag your hand into the blade. I don't think I'd ever try to do that.



Kevin.

Wecome to the Creek.
Bandsaws don't kickback, but watch where you put your thumbs. :eek:

[John Shuk]

Cliff,
I'm glad you are OK. Thank god it wasn't an injury as well. I just bought a cabinet saw(still waiting for it to come) and I am already planning on buying a Bies splitter. It is expensive but if it is easy on and off and helps me stay intact I'll pay the money. After seeing a kickback firsthand and seeing how quick that wood moves I don't want ANY part of that variety of pain.

[Hoa Dinh]

I'm surprised noone's mentioned push stick. Push stick, IMHO, is a dangerous thing. It can easily become a pivot for the work piece.

A push shoe, on the other hand, is a safety device. It keeps the workpiece down against the TS top and right against the rip fence, preventing the workpiece from being lifted up and from wandering into the back of the spinning blade.

[Rob Blaustein]

Hoa--I think you raise an excellent point, and as I mention in my recent post about my own kickback experience (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15547), this may have contributed.
-Rob

[Carole Valentine]

Amen! I have said ever since I got a TS that those bird-mouth push sticks are just asking for it!

[Steve Clardy]

I know some might disagree, but I always ride my blade a little higher than the 2-3 teeth clear on top rule. Forgot where, but I read somewhere the theory is with the blade up high, the cutting teeth are at a more downward angle when cutting. With the blade low, the cutting force is angle backwards, more towards the operator. Of course, without a splitter this whole theory may be bad as the rear blade angle is higher, which could aim a piece at your head instead of the gut!

Also with a high blade, you have more blade on the piece and it can be easier to burn the wood. Some also feel a high blade is more dangerous by being easier for the operator to contact directly. Guess it's just what works for you as long as you use safey features, be careful, and stand to the side as much as possible!
I've preached that for years. I always run my blades up higher. It does have the tendency to keep your board pulled down to the table.
I have had grippers kerf splitter installed for 2-3 months now. Works great.
Just last night it saved me from having a major malfunction.
I was ripping oak, and it tried pinching the blade about half way through.
The splitter kept if from pinching the blade. It pinched the splitter so tight it stopped me from finishing the cut. Shut the saw down, had to insert a screw driver in the kerf to get the board off the splitter, then recut the board.
Ever have a board pinch a blade on a 3hp saw? Thats wild now.

[Al Stramiello]

I'm a big fan . . . a really big fan . . . of The Gripper. "I never leave home without it."

[Lee Ludden]

After a close call with kickback last year, I now use the MJSplitter on every though cut and the Grripper on any rip cuts less than about 12" wide.

[glenn bradley]

I realize someone resurrected a years old thread here but, the message is just as current today as in 2004-2005. Any through cut should have a splitter in place. I have used MJ-Splitters and Grr-Rippers for years and advise similar devices to everyone.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Cliff,
Glad you're OK. I had one of those "diaper changing" moments about 2 years ago with an old Craftsman contractor saw. It did have a micro jig splitter on it. I ended up with about 3 stitches on my left hand a dislocated thumb. I was putting my thumb back into the joint when my wife came into the garage and asked, "What happened? I heard a huge bang." The board hit the garage door. Long story short, when we were in Dallas about a week later, she insisted we go by Woodcraft and look at saws. I ended up getting a SawStop ICS with her blessing. All clouds have a silver lining :-). Again, glad you're OK!

[Charles Goodnight]

Check out the "shark guard". Back when I had a BT3000 people raved about it. Plus its a quality product made by a one man shop

http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php

[Martin Titmus]

Interesting thread but not familiar with "splitter" - perhaps US terminology or my ignorance - is it the same as a riving knife??

[Ole Anderson]

I also agree that the 'birdmouth" push sticks ought to be banned in favor of the push "shoe". They allow you to keep the board on the table with downward force. I even made one out of 1/8" masonite for thin rips. And I always feel relieved when the board advances enough to get to the splitter. Also I don't understand the reluctance to use a guard with a built in splitter, IF they are easy to remove/replace like the SharkGuard is. I guess it is because every DIY or WW TV show you ever see with a TS has the guard removed. Even if they have a bunch of boards to rip. Shame on them, setting such an example. " I don't need no stinkin blade guard..."

Here's mine (I learned my lesson):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/CJ7ole/Img_0854.jpg

[David Kumm]

I have both the grr ripper and their little splitter tabs. I've had two kickbacks and it is too scary. The splitter is on my rockwell 12-14 and seems to work but I haven't really tested it. I really like the ripper though. Even though I sawed into it at first, there is real comfort in having your hand above the blade level. Push sticks cause problems as well as solve them. I always felt more safe at the bandsaw, but having a one inch blade break while resawing is a pretty ugly experience. The hand pressing against the resaw fence tends to look sacrificial. Dave

[johnny means]

Interesting thread but not familiar with "splitter" - perhaps US terminology or my ignorance - is it the same as a riving knife??

A splitter is the North American saw manufacturers' pathetic attempt at a riving knife. There are also several after market versions along with shop made versions, IMO none of them are as well designed as a European style riving knife.

[shane lyall]

I just upgraded to a hybrid saw. My old saw had the cheap plastic guard/splitter bolted to the back of the table. I put the saw in my lumber storage barn the other day and put the guard on top of the saw. That was the first time it has been "on" the saw in years. It was such a pain to put on or take off. I know it's stupid but I didn't take time to use it.

My new saw has the riving knife that clicks on with a quick push of a knob. The guard, knife, and kick back paws all are a simple system that I do use anytime I can. I love the set up but must say I don't use the paws because they scar the wood as it slides past them. I'm going to try to round the sides a little to see if it helps.

If you have a saw with the riving knife it works well to prevent a kickback. Glad your ok.

[Don Morris]

Been there, done that. My first TS was a Delta contractor saw. Watched the Kelly Mehler video, but I was too new to realize what I was doing on those first several cuts, when WHAM. Sported a belly mark for a couple months. Glad you're OK. Now my Grizz 1023SL and my Bies splitter are like going outside...You wouldn't go outside without clothes...I don't make rip cuts without the splitter (or my Grrr Rippers). One other thing I did was to get a heavyweight shopcoat. Some guys wear leather, mine is a thick guage canvas. Won't stop everything, but I know I would have been much better off with it, than without it. You're best protection is your brain. Always put that "on" before going into the shop. I've stopped myself a couple times when my mind said "DON"T DO THAT!" or "Do that a different/safer way". I'm afraid of my TS. That's the way I approach it. Love the thing, but treat it that way.

[Ole Anderson]

And you learn to stand to the side of the blade, out of he path of the projectile.

[Tom Ewell]

Interesting thread but not familiar with "splitter" - perhaps US terminology or my ignorance - is it the same as a riving knife??

My understanding is that a true riving knife is set relative to and travels with the blade (up, down, tilt), it is capable of allowing blind cuts whereas a splitter is normally fixed in height and some will tilt with the blade.

On my table saw (older model) the splitter, antikickback pawls and plastic guard are all combined. I cannot do blind cuts and dado blade jobs with it installed.

I have only two saws with a true riving knife a Festool plunger and a Craftsman radial arm saw set in rip mode.

Basic function essentially the same but as mentioned before, the riving knife is a much better design.

[Bob Riefer]

Everything I know so far, I basically learned from reading here or from the course I took from Jeffry Lohr. During that course, he gives a kickback demonstration that literally sends a large board nearly flying through the wall of his impressive workshop. It was a powerful demonstration that really has stuck with me. His remedy, that I employ, is a push rabbit (you hold the ear of the rabbit, the nose and belly of rabbit is pushing down on the board, and the back toes of the rabbit hang on the edge of the board to push it forward) and to always use the splitter on any cut where it is possible to do so.

I've been doing a ton of construction work in my kitchen the last few weeks and have had to rip a lot of 2x4 material. One had a major pinch point in it that was only revealed during the cut. I could feel it start to jump, but my rabbit pusher and the splitter combined to let me control it until I could power down. I backed the piece out and the cut completely closed. On my second pass, there was enough relief to complete the cut.

Anyways, I'm glad the OP is ok, and I'm glad that so many here preach good safety practices. It's helpful to the community.

[Brian Kincaid]

Everything I know so far, I basically learned from reading here or from the course I took from Jeffry Lohr. During that course, he gives a kickback demonstration that literally sends a large board nearly flying through the wall of his impressive workshop. It was a powerful demonstration that really has stuck with me. His remedy, that I employ, is a push rabbit (you hold the ear of the rabbit, the nose and belly of rabbit is pushing down on the board, and the back toes of the rabbit hang on the edge of the board to push it forward) and to always use the splitter on any cut where it is possible to do so.

I've been doing a ton of construction work in my kitchen the last few weeks and have had to rip a lot of 2x4 material. One had a major pinch point in it that was only revealed during the cut. I could feel it start to jump, but my rabbit pusher and the splitter combined to let me control it until I could power down. I backed the piece out and the cut completely closed. On my second pass, there was enough relief to complete the cut.

Anyways, I'm glad the OP is ok, and I'm glad that so many here preach good safety practices. It's helpful to the community.

I had a 2x4 close up on me while I was doing a deep non-through cut on its side. When I felt the saw grab a little I let go of the trigger as it jumped about 1". I had both hands on the saw. This is the closest I have come to a kickback since selling my table saw in favor of a track saw. I just picked up the saw and moved it to the front of the material and made another pass. Finished the piece with no other problems.
-Brian