More Shellac ?

[Mike Hoyt]

Hey guys im sure that this has been covered somewhere, but I was unable to find much on shellac basics. I have always been kind of intimidated by the idea of mixing up my own, but so far it sounds pretty easy, yes? Im building an oak end table and I thought now may be a good time to try it. What recomendations would you guys offer for red oak. Im not looking for a real dark color just enough to enhance grain. Thanks for your help

[Steve Schoene]

Shellac from flakes is available in several grades that also correspond with color. Garnet and other dark shellacs do a particularly nice job of warming dark colored woods such or walnut or woods that are stained dark. None of these is really dark on the wood. Shellac can be refined to be very light--often called blonde or super blonde. The basic commodity shellac is orange shellac, which has been renamed amber when it is used in Zinsser's liquid product of that name. A good resource to see various shellac colors is www.homesteadfinishing.com (http://www.homesteadfinishing.com) which is Jeff Jewitt's on-line store.

Mixing shellac is easy, you just combine the flakes with denatured alcohol. Ideally you weight the flakes and measure the alcohol volume to achieve a particular "pound cut", but this doesn't have to be anything closer than being in the ball park. 2 lb. cut or a bit less is a good working concentration. This is 2 lb. of flakes mixed with one gallon of alcohol. (Or 1/4 lb. mixed with a pint.) Don't mix more than you will use in a few months, since shellac stays fresh for a very long time in dry form, but loses its ability to dry much more quickly once it is mixed into liquid form.

The only real trick in applying shellac, whether by padding it on with a cloth or using a brush is to move quickly, never retracing an area. If you miss a spot, get it on the next coat. If you start to feel the brush or cloth start to drag--lift the applicator and STOP until the surface has a chance to dry. You don't need to sand between coats for adhesion, but a bit of sanding to eliminate bumps or ridges is perfectly fine.

[Mike McCann]

For shellac I do not wantto deal with the flakes. I use Zinsser Shellac clear you can get it at home depot or lowes or woodcrafters or rockler. you can use right out of the can but it is a litttle thick they recommend mixing it with denatured alchol. It tells you right on the can. I use a rag to wipe it on very easy and very forgiving.

[Steve Schoene]

Zinsser markets three liquid shellac forms plus an aerosol. Be careful to look at the date on the can. Zinsser gives a very long, I think two year, useful life past that date, but most people think that's pretty optimistic. I wouldn't buy any past about 6 months. There are two shellacs that still have the natural wax. These are Amber, and Clear. I don't recommend the Clear--it has been chemically bleached and is less water resistant and has a shorter life than the Amber or shellacs mixed from flakes. If you want a very light shellac use Super Blonde flakes which is still orange shellac, with the dye filtered out, not bleached away. Zinsser also sells shellac labeled Seal Coat, which is a dewaxed shellac roughly blonde colored. Dewaxed shellac is more water resistant and a bit clearer than shellac with wax.

[Steven Wilson]

Check out www.shellac.net which bennefits from the PaddyLac master Paddy O'Deen's writting. It's a good start into shellac (hint follow the links). Searching this site for paddylac will also get you a number of hits on how to use shellac.

As for mixing, I start from flakes. One oz of flakes per 1 cup of alcohol for a 1lb cut of shellac. I grind the flakes in a cheap electric coffe mill, toss them into a mason jar and add the alcohol. Stir frequently and let them sit in a hot waterbath and they disolve fairly quickly. Filter with paint strainers if you want. Zinsser is ok and if I'm looking for a waxed, orange shellac they're just as good as anyone (if you buy fresh) but there is a world of cool shellac colors and you won't get them in a can.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

On a lot of my turnings I use Zinser's Sealcoat, dewaxed shellac. I thin it as necessary using denatured alcohol. The thing I like about the dewaxed version, if I decide I want to put a harder finish over it, I can and do regularly. I often use the Zinsers to seal over an oil I've placed on a project to "pop" the grain and then use Deft brushing lacquer over that. Lacquer over oil can be a real problem if the oil hasn't completely dried.

[Aaron Cain]

Hey Guys,
If I wanted to use a more durable top coat over a "Wax" Garnet Shellac What are my options. I know urethane will not adhere well. What about a wiping oil/varnish like Waterlox or Fromby's. What about a Sam Maloofs? Could I place a clear dewaxed shellac over the garnet then use urethane?

Thanks

[Mike Hoyt]

Thanks for all the replies. Do any of you guys use paste wax over it or should a handful of coats of shellac do the trick by itself? Thanks again
Mike

[Ken Werner]

I just about always steel wool [0000] the final shellac coat and apply paste wax with the wool. This gives a modest sheen and a very nice feel.

Ken