10” TS blade wobble

[Paul Simmel]

Brand new WW I was set up in my Griz’ 1023 in anticipation of ripping sheeting goods. All was smooth.

Been finishing up some framing and, unbeknownst to me my weekend helper was running 2 X stock through the saw.

The blade now has a slight wobble… enough to see with the eye as the blade spins down. Maybe several thousandths. There’s vibration where there was none, now.

I’m thinking heat warped the blade? Any fix for this?

Thanks in advance.

[Donnie Folangelo]

Yes, buy a new saw blade.


HTH

[Dave Falkenstein]

Send it back to Forrest, and maybe they can fix it.

[Maurice Ungaro]

I've cut plenty of 8/4 materuial with my Forrest blade, with no ill effects. That includes pine, qtr sawn oak, mahogany, etc. Contact Forrest.

[glenn bradley]

If you have removed the blade, checked for any debris on the arbor, blade or washers and reinstalled with the same result, I would say your blade is damaged. Installing a known good blade will confirm that it is the WWII and not the saw arbor that is the problem. Forrest can probably true it up.

2 X lumber should not damage your blade. I have cut much thicker. Improper use is your likely culprit. Construction lumber can be pretty wet and move in all kinds of directions when cut. When the wood binds between the splitter and the fence, stop feeding and stop the saw. The lumber should slide easily through the saw. Forcing a cut is at best expensive and at worst dangerous. A board behaving like this will have to be dealt with in some other way.

[Tom Walz]

May have gotten too hot. Depends on the kind of grind and side clearance on the WWI as well as how fast he was feeding it.

The rim of a saw blade travels faster and farther than the center. This means that the rim wants to distort and form a cup or a potato chip shape. To compensate for this better quality saw blades and up are tensioned to resist this tendency. If the blade gets too warm it has a tendency to lose tension.

The Forrest blades I have analyzed have a very narrow side clearance and a ground shoulder to give nice, clean cuts. Blades made for fast, continuous cutting typically have more space (side clearance) between the saw steel and the material being cut.

Maybe ask the guy how much he cut, how fast.

[Rod Sheridan]

Ripping seems so simple, yet requires such specialized blades to be able to cut deep sections with the grain at high speed.

A major problem with combination blades, is the few deep gullets to be carry the long heavy chips out of the cut. If the chips can't remain contained in the gullet, they get trapped in the kerf and generate a lot of friction.

If there was a lot of ripping of thick material at high feed rates, you've probably over heated your blade. A saw shop may be able to re-tension it for you......Rod.

[Paul Simmel]

It’s a WW I (60 tooth), not a WW II combo blade.

I don’t know exactly how much stock he fed through it. Maybe 50’ lineal. And I don’t know what else may have happened behind the scenes, either. For all I know he banged something into it, because he didn’t lower the blade after use. The blade was straight when first installed.

This is my fault. I was going to change the blade out in case he was going to use the TS, and I completely forgot about it.

Good to know Forrest might be able to do something… not a complete loss hopefully.

I will remove the blade and check the arbor, etc. I have a number of good blades.

Thanks.

[Bruce Wrenn]

WWI is for a radial saw, if I remember correctly. This could be your problem. The WWI is for cross cutting, not ripping. Forrest will be able to rescue the blade, but at a price. Ask for an estimate. My WWII shed three teeth when it hit one of those SKU tag staples buried in the end of a board. With shipping, it would have been cheaper to buy a new WWII. Of course, my blade did come back "Forrest New". Still in the box it came back in over a year ago. Lowes carries the rebranded DeWalt, now Delta 7657 for $39.99. Hard to go wrong with this blade at that price. Been running one on my saw for about four months now. Used it yesterday to rip down some white oak legs for a bench. Finished deminsions were 2 3/8" square. Absolutely no problems ripping them on my contactor's saw.

[Brandon Shew]

I just sent my Freud blade in to Specialty Saw for sharpening and tooth replacement. They also offer blade straightening, hammering and tensioning.

[Bob Feeser]

The blade may be bent because your helper experienced a kickback. When a kickback occurs the wood is trapped between the fence and the blade, as you know, and the wood gets lifted slightly off of the table, then tilts creating a jam, then the force of the blade, tries to tilt the wood piece to extreme as it is exiting the back of the blade. I have experienced this with my old Sears saw. It not only bent the blade, but the blade bent to the point where it gashed the metal insert that was not even a zero clearance insert. There was a lot of space between the blade and the insert.
Of course I do not know if that is what happened, but definitely one possibility.

[Paul Simmel]

The WWI is meant for ripping sheeting goods, not solid hardwood or 2 x stock. I left the blade in and my guy used it on a day I wasn't there. I had meant to change out the blade for his potential use... as I left my shop open for him. It has to be heat from binding or, as you say, a kick back or some sort. This I wouldn't rule out even though there are no holes in my new walls.

Would I contact Forrest directly, or check around locally at the woodworking shop.

Paul